restore nut slots in Fender Custom T8

[David Becker]

A few of the strings in my Custom T8 appear to ride too low in the nut, requiring pretty firm bar pressure to keep them from rattling when I play. I'm looking for suggestions on how to build up the nut slots so I can re-cut them. This would be a first-time project for me, although I consider myself fairly handy. The issue only affects 2 strings on the near neck (the one I play most, by far, of course) and one string on the far neck.

Thanks so much!

David

[Glenn Wilde]

Other than TIG welding, which would destroy the plating, I would try a strong epoxy, like JB weld and then file it to shape.

[Tim Whitlock]

This is an inherent design flaw in the nut on the early Fender trap steels. The strings all sit on the same flat plane, causing the fatter strings to sit a little higher. This was resolved when the Stringmaster came out with the grooved nut where the fat strings sit deeper into the grooves. I think most players simply adjust their technique with varying bar pressure. I don't know of anyone who has tinkered with the nut, but I suppose it's possible maybe to file deeper grooves for the strings that sit too high. Building up the nut sounds like a very difficult task.

When I got my '51 custom, I immediately found it much more challenging to play than my Stringmaster. With some effort I was able to adjust my technique and it has become second nature over time. Great players like Chris Scruggs and Kayton Roberts, as well as players in the 50s, seem to navigate their trap guitars very well. My advice is to keep at it before making changes to the instrument.

[Michael Kiese]

Have you tried the "baking soda and super glue" trick?

Dan Erlewine has a video on YouTube showing how to do just that.

Basically you put baking soda powder, or any kind of suitably color-matched powder, put them in the nut slot, then a few drops of super glue.

Let it harden, and then refile.

StewMac even sells different types of colored powder to help match your nut color.

I know you're dealing with a metal nut, but the super glue trick may just work, and it's less invasive and less permanent than epoxy.

Other than that, you can get a machinist to make you another metal nut. If you want to go that route, I can recommend the guy that makes my parts. He's great!

Hope that helped!

[Glenn Wilde]

This is an inherent design flaw in the nut on the early Fender trap steels. The strings all sit on the same flat plane, causing the fatter strings to sit a little higher. This was resolved when the Stringmaster came out with the grooved nut where the fat strings sit deeper into the grooves. I think most players simply adjust their technique with varying bar pressure. I don't know of anyone who has tinkered with the nut, but I suppose it's possible maybe to file deeper grooves for the strings that sit too high. Building up the nut sounds like a very difficult task.

When I got my '51 custom, I immediately found it much more challenging to play than my Stringmaster. With some effort I was able to adjust my technique and it has become second nature over time. Great players like Chris Scruggs and Kayton Roberts, as well as players in the 50s, seem to navigate their trap guitars very well. My advice is to keep at it before making changes to the instrument.

You know, I've never thought about it, and I own a '50 Deluxe, I just play it. Another option for the OP would be to take the best nut and move it to the near neck and move the worst one to the outside.
Isn't the outside neck usually some kind of baritone tuning?

[David Venzke]

I've seen people use aluminum foil to raise a string in a metal nut by a few thousanths. Maybe try that.

[David Becker]

Thanks to all. I'll try the less invasive/permanent fixes if I find I can't adjust my bar pressure to accommodate the issue. I just recently started playing it (after having Nick Fryer refurbish the pickups - fantastically, I might add!), and am used to my Clinesmith cast Al and Melbert steels with more traditional nuts. I believe my T8 is a '52, and I agree with Tim about the design flaw. They sure got the pickups right, though (except for the bobbin material, of course).

[David Becker]

Thanks to all for the suggestions. I'll try the less invasive/permanent fixes first if I find I can't adjust my bar pressure to accommodate the issue. I just recently started playing it (after having Nick Fryer refurbish the pickups - fantastically, I might add!), and am used to my Clinesmith cast Al and Melbert steels with more traditional nuts. I believe my T8 is a '52, and I agree with Tim about the design flaw. They sure got the pickups right, though (except for the bobbin material, of course).

[Steven Pearce]

Another vote for JB Weld. Mix it, let it harden and tomorrow you can re-cut the slots.

[Chris Clem]

I have never tried this with steel nut but I done it with aluminum a few times. My method was to make some aluminum shavings with a file. Mix it with slow curing clear epoxy, (not the 5 min stuff). Clean the nut real good. Refile the slot the neck day. It actually works pretty good, and looks OK too.