Cabinet construction question
Moderator: J D Sauser
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Cabinet construction question
I recently bought a 1971 Shobud Professional S10 4x3 E9. The PO let it get wet while it was in the case so the face of the cabinet is pretty bad. The case liner dye leached into the wood and there is some minor warping. I could dye it and clean it up and fix it, but I’ve decided to have. Friend of mine build a new cabinet. It will be dimensionally the same but with a much better quality wood and some aesthetic enhancements. He and I were talking last night about the construction and he asked. “Why is the neck only screwed on and not glued and screwed on”. I couldn’t answer. Seems like it would be stronger if that were all glued and screwed. Could anyone answer that or for you builders, do you glue and screw the neck to the top of the cabinet?
- Ian Rae
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I shall also be glad to know the answer. When I built my own PSG a few years back I only screwed it, in case I had to take it apart again. It worked fine, so I left it that way.
But I've heard it said that if everything is too rigid it can kill the sound, and that some degree of "float" is desirable.
But I've heard it said that if everything is too rigid it can kill the sound, and that some degree of "float" is desirable.
Make sleeping dogs tell the truth!
Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs
Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs
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Reply to Erik from Steve Black
Hello Erik, I have a good friend who is a Luthier here in Columbus Ohio, he has worked on Sho-Bud guitars, the old Sho-Bud body can be redone, all the parts still have to come off, not a bad thing, if the old Sho-bud body is not warped or bowing anywhere I recommend still refinishing it, don't make a new one because the wood will be different in grain structure, this can effect sound, plus you will not know where to put all the rods back on the new body, the old body has the holes already there to tell you where cross rods go, I do not reccommend gluing the necks down and using screws not because it effects sound but because makes it difficult to remove if you need to like to do an upgrade, or you got to straighten the body over time, just screw the neck back on, I am restoring a double 10 wood neck Sho-Bud as I type this, It is a round front Sho-Bud, finish is now on the guitar, it had cracks in the tail where the changer went.
- Tim Toberer
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Re: Reply to Erik from Steve Black
I agree with restore rather than replace. It will no longer be a 1971 Sho Bud Professional if you replace the cabinet. Post some pictures!Steven Black wrote:Hello Erik, I have a good friend who is a Luthier here in Columbus Ohio, he has worked on Sho-Bud guitars, the old Sho-Bud body can be redone, all the parts still have to come off, not a bad thing, if the old Sho-bud body is not warped or bowing anywhere I recommend still refinishing it, don't make a new one because the wood will be different in grain structure, this can effect sound, plus you will not know where to put all the rods back on the new body, the old body has the holes already there to tell you where cross rods go, I do not reccommend gluing the necks down and using screws not because it effects sound but because makes it difficult to remove if you need to like to do an upgrade, or you got to straighten the body over time, just screw the neck back on, I am restoring a double 10 wood neck Sho-Bud as I type this, It is a round front Sho-Bud, finish is now on the guitar, it had cracks in the tail where the changer went.
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Starting the resurrection



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Resurection of guitar.
Eric, now I see, dye in the old wood, yes it won't come out.
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Cabinet is complete!
My cabinet is done and I’m beginning the reassembly. Ends are mounted, peg head, neck and changer are mounted. I’ll start remounting all the goodies tomorrow. Hope to have her singing again tomorrow night.

