Advice for a beginner buying a used pedal steel

[Glen Dufour]

Hi everyone, I'm new to this forum and looking to get into pedal steel.

I've found a Marlen SD-10 with 4 knee levers and 3 pedals in my local classifieds that has caught my eye.

The seller is asking for $1,150 USD and I'm not sure if this is a reasonable price or what I should even be looking for when evaluating a used pedal steel.

Seller bought it 4 years ago online from someone else and does not know the history beyond that. Condition wise he says that the 3rd pedal needs to be adjusted to be properly in tune, and that the pedals are squeaky - but he says these are easy fixes? He didn't have any luck fixing the 3rd pedal.

Wish I could bring along an expert with me to check it out, but know no such person in my area. Any tips for checking this out in person, having never played a note before? And also if the price is reasonable based on the issues noted? Want to make sure I'm picking up something sturdy to learn on. I don't mind tinkering around with the mechanics if these are easy fixes either.

Any help appreciated, thanks!

[Paul Wade]

here some info on pull release marlins
Post Posted 15 Sep 16 2:56am Reply with quote
Here's what Lane sent to me a few years back when I had my Marlen D-10:

Tuning instructions, from 30 year old memory:
E9: Tune 3,4,5,8 and 10 with A and B pedals (yeah, you'll have to retune 4 and 8, but it makes
it easier this way, unless you're using a tuning chart. If so, I'll give that order at the bottom.
Here I mean tuning by ear) down at the keyhead. Then release the pedals, and tune 3,5,6
and 10 at the nylon nuts (possibly the screws above the window, if no nylons on those pulls).
Now tune 4 against the F#m chord of the B&C pedals at the keyhead, release and retune the
E with the nylon nut on the lowering pull.
Hit F lever and A pedal, tune 8 at the keyhead and 4 under the guitar (there should be a
threaded bushing in the bellcrank to adjust when the bellcrank hits the collar), release and
retune 8 with the nut on the lowering rod.
Tune the D# lever with the screws in the endplate.
Press A and B while engaging LKR, tune 1 and 7 at the keyhead to where that seventh
sounds right. Release LKR, and tune 1 and 7 either to sound good against 6B or 5 at the
screws in the endplate.
Tune 2 to sound a major third against 5. If RKR has a half stop, tune C# to unison with 5A
with endplate screw, tune D under the guitar with the half-stop

If you use a programmed tuner, I go from 1-10, on your guitar, here's the order.
1LKR (G) at the keyhead, then open F# at screw
2 open D# at the keyhead, C# at screw, D (if applicable) under guitar
3B A at keyhead, open G# at screws
4C F# at keyhead, open E with nut, LKL F under guitar, LKR D# with the screw
5A C# at the keyhead and open B with the screw
6B A at the keyhead, open G# with screw
7RKL G at keyhead, open with screw
8LKL F at keyhead, open E with nut, LKR E with the screw
9 D at keyhead
10A C# at keyhead, open B with screws

Basically
Strings without raises at keyhead
Full raises: keyhead.
with raises and lowers, tune open with nut on lowering rod, tune lowers with the screw.
intermediate raises ( 4th string F lever), tune at bellcrank
Lowers tune with screws..

Wait, simpler description:
Top note: keyhead
Bottom note: screw
middle note 1: nut
middle note 2 (or more): under guitar.

Post Posted 13 Sep 16 1:23pm Reply with quote
I have several Marlens and rebuilt them all. If you just look at how it operates you'll figure everything out. If you need any help/advice, give me a call.

Slim
714-717-7218

_________________

[Donny Hinson]

My2cents:

If you can't get a competent steeler to evaluate it, I'd pass. Marlens can be decent, or they can be downright crude in construction. Since you have no experience with pedal steels, you could just be buying someone else's troubles. It's like buying a car that runs...but doesn't run very well. The problem could be something simple, or it could need a major overhaul.

[Dave Mudgett]

Marlens can be very cool guitars. But as Donny says, you don't know what you'll be getting yourself into.

The thing about Marlens is that they made two basic types - earlier a pull-release, and later an all-pull. Two different types of mechanisms. Most modern steels are all-pull, and most people find them more intuitive to work on. Pull-release guitars, properly set up, can be excellent. But they are (IMO) tricker to set up.

So unless you have someone who knows the drill to go in to evaluate, I'd pass. Just me - not saying it's not a good guitar or even a bad deal - but I think a raw beginner would be better served getting something more "standard", for lack of a better word.

[Bill Moore (RIP)]

Dave has offered some good advice. But if you some some experience doing mechanical things, and you have some patience, you can get a pull/release guitar working properly. You should note if there are parts missing, at least. It would really help to have an experienced player look it over, though.

I think, as long as you are aware of potential problems, there's no harm in looking at the Marlen. If the seller never got it set up correctly, you might offer 25% less than he is asking. He probably is motivated to sell. Good luck, whatever you decide.

[Larry Jamieson]

Al Brisco has a steel guitar shop in Ontario. You might see what he has for sale. Or, you might ask him if he is able to help you get the Marlen up and working if you decide to go that way. Good luck and cheers.