Double raise on a Fender 1000?

[Rob Fenton]

Hello everyone. This is my first post on the Forum. Just joined yesterday. It is a pleasure to be in your "cyber-company".

Like many new Pedal Steel players, I have been struggling with a vintage instrument for a while. I love the sound of it, and don't want to give up on it quite yet, but the single raise/lower changer certainly is limiting.

I have searched through the archives for setup advice, and have found copedants posted (such as Sneaky Pete's) that have more than one raise on various strings.

Is this done by adding some sort of half stop?
Can this be done without adding more modern hardware such as, how do you say... "knee levers"?

I have been trying to set up a fairly modern E9 copedant on the near neck using, well, conceivably all of the pedals, but it is the C pedal and F lever raises of string 4 that are the main problem. Do I have to sacrifice one of them?

I really have no problem at this point being double footed on the pedals. I can sacrifice the volume pedal for now as I learn the way all of the changes work.

I just want to learn all of the changes, and not have to give anything up.

Thanks for your help.

Let's see, now if I switch the volume and tone pots, I can get my little finger on the volume...

[Jay Fagerlie]

Hi Rob, and welcome to the forum.
I have a 1000 also, and have ommited the C pedal so I can have another pedal perform the E-F change. I have no knee levers (yet)
It hasn't hurt me yet, but then again, I have another pedal steel with this change if I really need it.
If you add some knee levers, you could have a second set of stops on the levers themselves, and then you could have both the C pedal and E-F lever. (Just make sure that the pedal stop is not lower than the lever stop....i.e. you can't have a half raise on the pedal and a whole raise on the lever for the same string-but the other way around will work.)

Jay

[Bobbe Seymour]

Doug Seymour showed me how to tune a single step and a double step raise on a Fender 1000 many years ago. It involved hooking on to the raise AND lower bars, to raise a half, then to just the raise to do a full step raise.
This guitar is more versitile than you'd guess, if approched correctly.
As in most guitars, it's how you set them up that determines whether is a "bad" guitar or not. The Emmons P-P is another example of this.
Chalker and Mooney proved the worth of the Fendar 1000.
Bobbe

[Pete Burak]

Bobbe,
How do you tune the note that uses both the raise and lower fingers?

For example, string 4, E>F# + E>Eb = F?
How do you fine tune the F without messing up the F# or Eb?

[Doug Seymour]

Warren Shanner from Salamanca put a dble raise on my 400 years ago. Both cables were raising to the whole step raise the guitar was set for, but Warren drilled the end plate for another bolt in a threaded colar that was clamped with a cable clamp to one of the two raises. That gave you a tuneable limit to the cable that only let it raise a half-step! Warren is a thinker! I wish you guys could see the Rick he made out of Maple. It has a knee lever and years ago he had a lap steel with floor pedals that ran through a "speedometer like"cable to work the changer. He told me last year he never had anything that he didn't try thinking about a way to improve it! Great guy! He was the person who first told me about Jerry Byrd....before I'd ever heard of Jerry.

[Rob Fenton]

Thanks so much for your answers.
I really appreciate your taking the time.

I have chosen to keep both raises, but sacrifice the fourth string half tone lower.

It works quite well, though if the pedal is depressed slowly, it definitely raises too high first, before settling down.

It'll get me by for now.
Thanks again.
Rob