P/P Tuning Problem
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joe long
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P/P Tuning Problem
I know this question has been answered many times. My 8th E is not lowering enough. Would appreciate any assistance.
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Larry Bell
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First tune the changer
Pull the raise finger against the stop and tune the F at the endplate. Push the lower finger against the stop and tune the D#. Now check the raise to F and open string just to be sure nothing has moved.
Do this for both the 8th string and the 4th string, just to be sure the 4th isn't causing problems. It requires more slack because of the C pedal E to F#. Remember that the F is tuned with a half-tone tuner underneath the guitar. So you tune the C pedal as the max raise and the D# as the max lower on the 4th.
Once that's done, it is just a matter of allowing the levers to pull against the stop. If you don't have enough throw, adjust the knee lever stop.
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<small>Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
2003 Fessenden S/D-12 8x8, 1969 Emmons S/D-12 6x6, 1984 Sho-Bud S/D-12 7x6, 1971 Dobro, Standel and Peavey Amps
Pull the raise finger against the stop and tune the F at the endplate. Push the lower finger against the stop and tune the D#. Now check the raise to F and open string just to be sure nothing has moved.
Do this for both the 8th string and the 4th string, just to be sure the 4th isn't causing problems. It requires more slack because of the C pedal E to F#. Remember that the F is tuned with a half-tone tuner underneath the guitar. So you tune the C pedal as the max raise and the D# as the max lower on the 4th.
Once that's done, it is just a matter of allowing the levers to pull against the stop. If you don't have enough throw, adjust the knee lever stop.
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<small>Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
2003 Fessenden S/D-12 8x8, 1969 Emmons S/D-12 6x6, 1984 Sho-Bud S/D-12 7x6, 1971 Dobro, Standel and Peavey Amps
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Charles Curtis
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Check the Carter Guitar web site at...www.steelguitar.com......
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richard burton
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Lee Baucum
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Larry Bell
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Richard,
As pointed out, the term 'tuning the changer' (only done with push-pull guitars) involves ensuring that the changer is calibrated for the maximum raise and lower so that those changes pull the fingers snug against the stops.
====EDITED=====
You pull the raise finger against the stop to get the maximum musical interval change and tune that note at the KEYHEAD. Release the finger and tune the unaltered note at the ENDPLATE (top hole) Then you push the lower finger against the stop and tune the maximum lower change using the lower hole in the ENDPLATE.
=================
The objective is to avoid overshooting the maximum raise or lower and simplify tuning so that the pedal or lever will be in tune once it hits the changer stop. Synchronizing the pedal or lever travel to just hit the changer stop is the objective.
You are correct -- when in a playing situation you tune the maximum raise first -- at the keyhead -- then let off and tune the 'unraised' note at the endplate. Then you tune the maximum lower at the endplate. Naturally, any intermediate raises or lowers must be tuned underneath with half tone tuners.
Sorry for any confusion. It CAN be confusing.
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<small>Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
2003 Fessenden S/D-12 8x8, 1969 Emmons S/D-12 6x6, 1984 Sho-Bud S/D-12 7x6, 1971 Dobro, Standel and Peavey Amps
<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Larry Bell on 01 December 2005 at 05:46 PM.]</p></FONT>
As pointed out, the term 'tuning the changer' (only done with push-pull guitars) involves ensuring that the changer is calibrated for the maximum raise and lower so that those changes pull the fingers snug against the stops.
====EDITED=====
You pull the raise finger against the stop to get the maximum musical interval change and tune that note at the KEYHEAD. Release the finger and tune the unaltered note at the ENDPLATE (top hole) Then you push the lower finger against the stop and tune the maximum lower change using the lower hole in the ENDPLATE.
=================
The objective is to avoid overshooting the maximum raise or lower and simplify tuning so that the pedal or lever will be in tune once it hits the changer stop. Synchronizing the pedal or lever travel to just hit the changer stop is the objective.
You are correct -- when in a playing situation you tune the maximum raise first -- at the keyhead -- then let off and tune the 'unraised' note at the endplate. Then you tune the maximum lower at the endplate. Naturally, any intermediate raises or lowers must be tuned underneath with half tone tuners.
Sorry for any confusion. It CAN be confusing.
------------------
<small>Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
2003 Fessenden S/D-12 8x8, 1969 Emmons S/D-12 6x6, 1984 Sho-Bud S/D-12 7x6, 1971 Dobro, Standel and Peavey Amps
<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Larry Bell on 01 December 2005 at 05:46 PM.]</p></FONT>
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joe long
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richard burton
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Larry Bell
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or, courtesy of Carter's Info Site
RAISING
LOWERING

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<small>Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
2003 Fessenden S/D-12 8x8, 1969 Emmons S/D-12 6x6, 1984 Sho-Bud S/D-12 7x6, 1971 Dobro, Standel and Peavey Amps
RAISING
LOWERING

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<small>Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
2003 Fessenden S/D-12 8x8, 1969 Emmons S/D-12 6x6, 1984 Sho-Bud S/D-12 7x6, 1971 Dobro, Standel and Peavey Amps
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Wayne Franco
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Larry Bell
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Richard is correct
I've been playing my all pull guitars lately and didn't say what I meant.
The best description of the process is on John Lacey's Wilderness Guide http://www.melmusic.com/laceyj/guide.html
You pull the raise finger to the stop and tune the F at the KEYHEAD
Release the raise finger and tune the E at the ENDPLATE (top hole)
Then tune the D# at the ENDPLATE (bottom hole)
I was the one with the senior moment. Sorry Richard.
I changed the description above as well.
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<small>Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
2003 Fessenden S/D-12 8x8, 1969 Emmons S/D-12 6x6, 1984 Sho-Bud S/D-12 7x6, 1971 Dobro, Standel and Peavey Amps
I've been playing my all pull guitars lately and didn't say what I meant.
The best description of the process is on John Lacey's Wilderness Guide http://www.melmusic.com/laceyj/guide.html
You pull the raise finger to the stop and tune the F at the KEYHEAD
Release the raise finger and tune the E at the ENDPLATE (top hole)
Then tune the D# at the ENDPLATE (bottom hole)
I was the one with the senior moment. Sorry Richard.
I changed the description above as well.
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<small>Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
2003 Fessenden S/D-12 8x8, 1969 Emmons S/D-12 6x6, 1984 Sho-Bud S/D-12 7x6, 1971 Dobro, Standel and Peavey Amps
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Craig A Davidson
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john widgren
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Make sure you have enough backslack on 8. Even if the changer is in tune, if you do not have enough backslack (or space between the bellcrank and raise collar) the tension on the raise portion of the finger (at the fish hook) will not allow that (raise) part of the finger to drop all the way to the lower tuning setscrew along with the lowering portion of the finger. In other words, the raise part of the finger will be "hung up" not allowing enough room to drop to the desired pitch.<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by john widgren on 02 December 2005 at 09:42 AM.]</p></FONT>


