Fender 1000 pedal

Frank Plesek · Post by **Frank Plesek** » 16 May 2002 1:21 pm

Hi Ya'll from Holister ca. I recently bought a 1000 pedal steel on the web. However I figured I'd have to do some fixing to it just because of the age of the unit.Being an old sho bud maverick owner not a very good player(but I want to be) and being a Fender freak I collect guitars and play in a local 50-60 rock N roll band Iwanted to try a double neck> However Leo has me confused I have been trying to find someone that knows about the 1000 so I can set it up and use it on stage. So is there anybody that can HELP or is there a Vendor in California I can send it to. The wood is fine my problen is yhe pedal set up and I have a couple broken cables..
Thanks
Frank Plesek
PS. Smiley if you read this How the Heck are you?

Bob Tuttle · Post by **Bob Tuttle** » 16 May 2002 4:13 pm

Frank, you might want to give Blackie Taylor a call. He has a store in Riverside and specializes in pedal steels; sales, service, and repairs. (909)686-4010, or
e-mail: btmusic@earthlink.net

Rick Collins · Post by **Rick Collins** » 16 May 2002 8:56 pm

If the broken cables are beyond repair, go to any auto parts place and ask for a few feet of parking brake cable for auto. Check around with welders and find a good soldering person. This will get your cables in order. If you only want to pull or lower one string with a pedal hook both ends of the cable to the same finger under the guitar.

Adjust the pedals even to start. Tune the basic open tuning at the keyhead first, then tune the pedals with the Phillips screws at the right end (seated) of the guitar. The bright screws are to tune raises; the black ones for tuning the lowering of string pitch. When you are in tune adjust the slack out of the cables using the turnbuckles under and along the front of the guitar.

Adjust the height of the pickups from the strings using two quarters.

Rick

Carl West · Post by **Carl West** » 17 May 2002 7:28 am

Frank, you may want to install somes stop nuts on the cable adjustment. Either 10/32 or 8/32 . . can't remember. sure will eliminate the constant tighting and loosening. I used two to secure them.

Carl West
Emmons D-10
Fender 2000

Rick Collins · Post by **Rick Collins** » 17 May 2002 10:11 am

Carl, yes they will loosen at the turnbuckle as they come from the factory. Instead of jam nuts, as you suggested, I took a sharp razor blade and scored the threads on the turnbuckles. But if you do this you must be careful; if you over do it they will be to difficult to turn with your fingers.

Rick

Carl West · Post by **Carl West** » 17 May 2002 10:55 am

Rick, yes that's another way but them suckers still have a tendency to loosen up.
The problem should have been resolved in using rods instead of those darn cables. But I still love my 2000 . . never play it but still have it.

Carl West

Frank Plesek · Post by **Frank Plesek** » 19 May 2002 10:15 am

Thank's you guys all this info will be handy on monday when I start renovation of my 1000 I can't thank ya'll enough.If I run into Problems I will get Back....

Don Walters · Post by **Don Walters** » 21 May 2002 5:39 am

Frank, if you need a manual, check out the following link.

www.edusoft.ca/1000/

If you want a printed copy, just send me an e-mail.

George Duncan Sypert · Post by **George Duncan Sypert** » 30 Oct 2005 11:04 am

Don, If you are still on the forum could you email me at syp4353@covad.net
I would like to get some info from you. Thanks-George

Billy Wilson · Post by **Billy Wilson** » 30 Oct 2005 11:11 am

Get a hold of Tom Bradshaw. tbradshaw@california.net. He is in Concord Ca. He'll have you up and runnin in no time.

Cliff Kane · Post by **Cliff Kane** » 30 Oct 2005 5:05 pm

Don: thank you for posting that manual.

Cliff

Ian Finlay · Post by **Ian Finlay** » 6 Nov 2005 2:29 pm

Be careful with the brake cable idea - I got some used but complete cables from a 400 to add a couple of pedals to my 1000. Had to remove the cable and replace with a longer section... the brake cable I could get was stainless steel from a bicycle shop. Steel handbrake (parking brake) cable was too thick.

To cut a long story short, the solder/flux combination is critical. I was lucky enough to have a rep from a UK company come by and leave me some samples, but it's not stuff that's readily available off the shelf in hobbyist quantities.

Ian

Russ Little · Post by **Russ Little** » 6 Nov 2005 9:06 pm

Frank,
I have made several cable mods on my fender
2000. Bicycle cables work good, and I used
tinners acid and regular lead solder like
the plumbers use on copper pipe.
You can get it at most any good hardware
store.
Hope this helps
Russ

Jim Sliff · Post by **Jim Sliff** » 6 Nov 2005 9:15 pm

I've also done them with plumber's solder, regular plumber's flux in a can and a propane torch.