Midnight - 1970 Emmons Resto - Phase 3

Instruments, mechanical issues, copedents, techniques, etc.

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Mike Scaggs
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Midnight - 1970 Emmons Resto - Phase 3

Post by Mike Scaggs »

Well here we go again. A 1970 D10 Fatback in need of a full resto. She came to me as a full bore basket case in need of everything. This guitar has seen a ton of miles but will be a jewel once she is finished.

Plans: Black Mica, Decal Badge, Polished out like I do, red flocking (not to be confused with a red belly wrap around), new chrome fret boards.

This will be a fun project but a whole lotta work too.

Stay tuned


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Last edited by Mike Scaggs on 11 Aug 2018 5:34 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Post by Herb Steiner »

But the "Gil" badge stays, right? :lol:

Seriously, you'll do a cool job on this one, like all your other restos. Nice job on the S-10, BTW.
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Post by Drew Pierce »

I'll bet that will be a killer, Mike. Gotta love those fatbacks.

Obviously black mica is generally considered the most desirable color for an old Emmons, so that's a great call. But were decal badges used in '70?
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Post by Mike Scaggs »

Drew Pierce wrote:I'll bet that will be a killer, Mike. Gotta love those fatbacks.

Obviously black mica is generally considered the most desirable color for an old Emmons, so that's a great call. But were decal badges used in '70?
This guitar had a screwed in badge but I like the decals so thats what Im doing. Looks more retro to me :)
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Post by Drew Pierce »

Fair enough. Where do you get the decals?
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Post by Mike Scaggs »

Drew Pierce wrote:Fair enough. Where do you get the decals?
Not sure. I think you can still get them from Emmons... I have one in my stash
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Post by Mike Scaggs »

Second half mica stripped and man that is a task.

Next, sand and clean off all the old flocking, plug holes with maple dowels, and get her ready for some sweet black mica..


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Post by Mike Scaggs »

Many of these old push pulls have lived a hard life like many of us playing in bars :) This one is no acceptation.

Below is the deck where I have plugged all the unwanted holes in this body from years and years of moving knee levers and pedals around. The holes were all drilled to the same size and plugged with maple dowels for a good solid repair. Once completed the body will be sealed with lacquer before moving to the flocking.


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Post by Dale Rottacker »

Another Masterpiece in the making!!!
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Post by Mike Scaggs »

I finished plugging holes for a fresh start and cleaned up the necks too. Now, I typically find cracks in the wood behind the changers where the two mounting holes are. This is always evident in lacquer guitars as we can see it from the top. This also happen on many mica guitars its just hard to see till you pull them down like I have. Very common on these old push pulls indeed. The picture will show how I do the repair with a biscuit and Titebond glue. Next I will seal the bare wood with urethane to protect it from moister and then on to the new Mica.


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Post by Ken Byng »

Mike - you are a glutton for punishment. :lol:

A classic black mica finish - cannot be beaten.
Last edited by Ken Byng on 29 Oct 2023 9:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Mike Scaggs »

Ken Byng wrote:Mike - you are a glutton for punishment. :lol:

A classic black mica finish - cant be beaten.
HAHA Ken ... You're probably right!

Yes, a black Push Pull is pretty much the King. One thing I learned on Brownie is that maple wood pedal stop bar made a big difference in tone and even-ness. I can't explain why, all I know is that guitar rang like the Liberty Bell and was so even across and up and down the neck. If this guitar does the same thing I will incorporate a wood stop in ever PP in the future. JD Maness knows this to be true :)
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Post by Tony Glassman »

I've been using a heat gun and a plastic putty spatula tao scrape the residual fretboard adhesive offf the neck. it sure speeds up the process.
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Post by Tony Glassman »

I've been using a heat gun and a plastic putty spatula tao scrape off the fretboard adhesive. it sure sp\eeds up that task.
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Post by Mike Scaggs »

Tony Glassman wrote:I've been using a heat gun and a plastic putty spatula tao scrape off the fret-board adhesive. it sure speeds up that task.
Yeah, I pulled the fret-boards off the same way but the glue came off with some lacquer thinner and a brush in less than 60 seconds. Then I used a DA sander with 80 grit to cleanup and jewel. I will do a final jewel once the necks are polished.
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Post by Johnie King »

I see Mike is working his magic again l really enjoy the progress pictures. CheersMike
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Post by Johnie King »

Magic Mike love it. Mike did u find some one willing to Buff Mike the cabinet on a Emmons. Is im guessing is 5/8 thick instead of 3/4 like most steels do u think that is some of the magic on a push pull?
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Post by Johnie King »

Magic Mike love it. Mike did u find some one willing to Buff
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Post by Mike Scaggs »

Johnie King wrote:Magic Mike love it. Mike did u find some one willing to Buff
On the buffing, Dougs from Bud's Polishing called me a week or so ago and told me he is putting his shop back together so he can carry on his amazing buffing. Of course many of us have offered to do whatever we can to help his get back on his feet. So, I am looking forward to see his smiling face again.

An Emmons PP body is 1/2" straight grained maple and yes I do thing that is <part> of the tone for sure. I could easily make a new body but you cannot make age! That wood has been vibrating for 48 years and like an old Martin, it really does matter...
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Post by Johnie King »

Mike very good answer I agree totally!,
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Restoration Emmons D-10

Post by Don Mogle »

Mike,

Great work as usual...I'm looking forwarding to seeing more of the restoration as it develops.

Question #1: How far does the biscuit go into the wood. It would seem to go about a half inch and stop short of the hole in the wood. However, from the picture, it kind of looks like it goes the whole width of the wood at this spot. Please set me straight on this!

Question #2: Would it involve a complete tear down to retrofit a PP with the maple stop bar you are talking about? While on this subject, could you post some more detailed pictures of the maple stop bar mod as you continue this restoration? I'd like to see it before/after installation, etc.

I always look forward to this great series of Emmons PP restorations.

Thanks Again,

Don
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Re: Restoration Emmons D-10

Post by Mike Scaggs »

Don Mogle wrote:Mike,
Question #1: How far does the biscuit go into the wood. It would seem to go about a half inch and stop short of the hole in the wood. However, from the picture, it kind of looks like it goes the whole width of the wood at this spot. Please set me straight on this!

Question #2: Would it involve a complete tear down to retrofit a PP with the maple stop bar you are talking about? While on this subject, could you post some more detailed pictures of the maple stop bar mod as you continue this restoration? I'd like to see it before/after installation, etc.
#1 The biscuit goes deeper than it looks like. It goes nearly the whole depth of the wood behind the changer to cover the whole cracked area. This is VERY common on all PPs. Once repaired it will hold up form now on...

#2 In short, the teardown although not a complete, would be required to change to a maple stop bar. Is it worth it? You have to decide that as it is a LOT of work. I did that wood stop bar on Brownie and man that guitar had a ring about it. Was it the stop bar? How knows, but that was the only change I made to her. If I get the same results here I am staying with that from now on.

Mike
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Post by Mike Scaggs »

Made a little progress


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Post by Mike Scaggs »

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Restopration

Post by Don Mogle »

Now that's a real RED BELLY!