MSA - leg extensions and slippage
Moderator: Dave Mudgett
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Jim Sliff
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MSA - leg extensions and slippage
First, a huge thanks to Steve Gambrell for the lift kit - my MSA is infinitely more playable (I'm 6'4") with the 2" kit he sent me. A wonderful person.
My 6th string RKL pull is solved - Brad Higgins gave me a couple suggestions and it literally was fixed in one minute. I don't know if Brad hangs around here, but he used to play steel for Commander Cody, builds stellar custom violins and a B-string bender for guitars that's fantastic.
Last note - the back legs on the MSA slip in height like crazy. If I can't dig up any Atlas clutch repair kits, are there any other solutions short of drilling the legs and sticking bolts in them?
Thanks again to all those who helped me get the E9 neck on this thing going - it's working well now...later I'll try adjusting the C6 and see if it'll work OK.
Have a great weekend everyone!
My 6th string RKL pull is solved - Brad Higgins gave me a couple suggestions and it literally was fixed in one minute. I don't know if Brad hangs around here, but he used to play steel for Commander Cody, builds stellar custom violins and a B-string bender for guitars that's fantastic.
Last note - the back legs on the MSA slip in height like crazy. If I can't dig up any Atlas clutch repair kits, are there any other solutions short of drilling the legs and sticking bolts in them?
Thanks again to all those who helped me get the E9 neck on this thing going - it's working well now...later I'll try adjusting the C6 and see if it'll work OK.
Have a great weekend everyone!
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David Nugent
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You may want to try this. Loosen up the clutch on both legs and compress them until they bottom out. Take a measurement of how much of the lower part of the leg is still protruding from the upper part. Next, adjust the legs to the height they will be when the guitar is set up and take a second measurement of the amount that the lower part of the leg is sticking out past the upper part. Subtract the former measurement from the latter and cut two pieces of dowel to that length. Separate the two parts of the leg, install the dowels , and reassemble.
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Jim Sliff
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Donny Hinson
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Many times, players will take the legs apart and then re-assemble them wrong. Before you go doing any other exercises, make sure the parts in the leg are assembled properly. The small aluminum cone ring goes with the <u>flat</u> side against the end of the outer section of the leg. This puts the conical end down, towards the phenolic ring which is forced upward into the aluminum cone ring by the large threaded collar. Nine times out of ten, the "problem" with the legs slipping is fixed when they're assembled properly.
Added info...
Parts in the leg clutch (the conical aluminum ring and the split phenolic ring) can be damaged (broken) if they are assembled wrong! Usually, they're just assembled wrong, and then someone uses too much force to tighten the collar to try to keep the leg from slipping.
Voila!
Broken rings.
If you can't find a replacment clutch kit anywhere, comb the flea markets and yard sales for rusty mike stands. They can ofen be had for a few dollars, and usually have good internal parts. They're pretty standard, except that some have a 3-piece clutch assembly, with 2 of the conical aluminum rings (one on each side of the phenolic ring). Just remember, the cone-shaped (interior beveled) side of the aluminum ring <u>always</u> goes towards the split ring.<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Donny Hinson on 10 July 2005 at 11:23 AM.]</p></FONT>
Added info...
Parts in the leg clutch (the conical aluminum ring and the split phenolic ring) can be damaged (broken) if they are assembled wrong! Usually, they're just assembled wrong, and then someone uses too much force to tighten the collar to try to keep the leg from slipping.
Voila!
Broken rings.
If you can't find a replacment clutch kit anywhere, comb the flea markets and yard sales for rusty mike stands. They can ofen be had for a few dollars, and usually have good internal parts. They're pretty standard, except that some have a 3-piece clutch assembly, with 2 of the conical aluminum rings (one on each side of the phenolic ring). Just remember, the cone-shaped (interior beveled) side of the aluminum ring <u>always</u> goes towards the split ring.<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Donny Hinson on 10 July 2005 at 11:23 AM.]</p></FONT>
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Jim Sliff
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Donny - yep, from years of working with Atlas stands I was aware of the reversed-cone problem. This one was just worn out. And two 6" pieces of dowel set it perfectly with my 2" extension kit on the front end. They're easily removable if necessary (slide right out), but I don't see ever taking them out unless I sell it.
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Earnest Bovine
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Donny
Thank you for that explanation. The part that seems to break is the "small aluminum cone ring" which I have not been able to find at any hardware store. I could use a few of those. Why do you call it a "cone" ring? On my Sho-Bud these are not cones.
The other ring (toward the floor) has a gap in it. Is that the "phenolic ring" ?
Thank you for that explanation. The part that seems to break is the "small aluminum cone ring" which I have not been able to find at any hardware store. I could use a few of those. Why do you call it a "cone" ring? On my Sho-Bud these are not cones.
The other ring (toward the floor) has a gap in it. Is that the "phenolic ring" ?
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Jim Sliff
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Earnest Bovine
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Willie Crisel
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