Likely Year of Bolt On #2779?

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Pat Burns
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Likely Year of Bolt On #2779?

Post by Pat Burns »

...is a D-10 black mica bolt-on cut back with serial number 2779 (no "D") with metal necks and butterbean tuners probably a 1966?...
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Bob Hoffnar
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Post by Bob Hoffnar »

Pat does the steel have wood necks ? My 66 bolt on is #1052. That serial number would put yours near the 80's.

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Post by Pat Burns »

...metal necks...definately not a late 70's axe, it's a bolt on...the serial number has no "D"...

...I also have a mid '70's rosewood D-10 that's a cut-tail, and the serial number on that is also in the 2-thousands but with a "D" after it...<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Pat Burns on 22 March 2005 at 08:42 AM.]</p></FONT>
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Post by Ivan Posa »

Pat, I have a black bolt-on # 2876. The guitars without the D were given the invoice number they were shipped on. Should date from 66 to early 67....IP

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Post by Pat Burns »

...thanks, Ivan. I was pretty sure that was the time frame, wanted to get some other input...I appreciate it.
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Post by Daniel J. Cormier »

Check out this Info site http://www.steelguitar.com/resource/pushpullinfo/d10pushpull_sn.htm

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Daniel J. Cormier
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Nick Reed
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Post by Nick Reed »

As John Fabian says "ooohhhh lookie at what I got" My '66 Emmons bolt-on is #2615 (without the D). Nick

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Jay Ganz
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Post by Jay Ganz »

That Carter chart is not accurate. Your's
is probably early '67.
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Post by Danny Spinks »

I have #2771. I bought it new in November 1967.

The owner of #2768 e-mailed me several years back and said he was given a manufacture date of September 1967 by the company for his guitar.

Danny

<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Danny Spinks on 25 March 2005 at 08:16 AM.]</p></FONT>
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Post by Bobbe Seymour »

Correct Jay, the chart is very wrong. Pats guitar is a '67, Febuary. Also known as a "Norlin" model.

Bobbe<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by BobbeSeymour on 25 March 2005 at 08:40 AM.]</p></FONT><font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by BobbeSeymour on 25 March 2005 at 08:41 AM.]</p></FONT>
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Post by Pat Burns »

..what's "Norlin"?...
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Post by Herb Steiner »

Pat
Norlin was a musical instrument distribution corporation based in Chicago. They are widely and correctly blamed for the severe drop in quality of Gibson instruments in the 1970's after that classic builder's acquisition by Norlin.

The old-timers at Gibson HATED the "suits" from Norlin and their ideas.

Anyway, in the 66-67 time frame, Norlin distributed Emmons for a period of time. I am sure it was just a distribution deal, and Norlin didn't mess with the quality of the Emmons product, like they did when they owned Gibson.

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Post by Curt Langston »

Norlin should be "knarly"........ Image
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Post by Pat Burns »

...thanks, Herb...I think that when I'm referring to my guitar, I'll just call it a "'67 bolt-on", and leave the "Norlin" part out...unless I'm playing in the Big Easy..
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Post by Garry Vanderlinde »

This bolt-on 9+4 has Serial# 2255, no "D", 1966 tone pot, metal logo and three rows of pedal adjustment screws. I believe it to be a 1966 model.
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Post by Bobbe Seymour »

Pat, Norlin in relation to Emmons is a good thing. All the Norlin P-P guitars were incredible guitars. I'd pay a lot of money for a "Non-modified" original Norlin Emmons.
I think they were the top of the Emmons line. I'd love to have one. But it would have to be 100% original guitar.
None of the Norlin guitars were ever sold with knee levers. Unfortunately, most have been added by now which means the guitars are no longer "original". I want a pure original "Norlin". Money is no object.
bobbe.
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Jay Ganz
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Post by Jay Ganz »

Yeah, the one I got ahold of several years ago
was stored in a closet unplayed since it was
new. It was completely original from the
factory with no knee levers. But....I did
have Mike Cass install some. You should have
said something earlier!


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<font face=radagund><font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Jay Ganz on 26 March 2005 at 07:20 AM.]</p></FONT>
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Post by Pat Burns »

...well, shoot, Bobbe...that's easy enough, I'll have her down to you with no knee levers in no time at all...now, how much money is "a lot"?...
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Post by Bobbe Seymour »

Jay, it has been killed, for me anyway. Pat, no good for me either, your guitar has been molested, who was the molester?
Now find me an original Norlin, no knee Emmons P-P, anyone.
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Post by Pat Burns »

...Bobbe, I don't think mine was molested...I think the old girl painted up her lips and rolled and curled her tinted hair...<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Pat Burns on 27 March 2005 at 07:56 AM.]</p></FONT>
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Post by Bobbe Seymour »

Boom-chicka Boom-chicka Boom-chicka,
Ruuuuuuby,--- leave yer love ta-home.......
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J D Sauser
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Post by J D Sauser »

While we're at bolt on's. The only Emmons PP that ever had my heart double rate and my hands sweating was a bolt on. It sounded incredible even unplugged and ever so thru any amp.
I have two questions:
Is the keyhead attached to the neck (in other words is the whole string lenght atached to one big piece of aluminum?
And if so, why do you think don't they sound like a Bigsby (which also basically was a one piece aluminum steelguitar attached to a wood frame)? Just the pick-up?

I can see ol' Bobbe already getting cold sweat on his face imagining J-D trying to make an original Norlin sound like a Bigsby Image.

... J-D.
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Post by Bobbe Seymour »

Pickup has nothing to do with it, it's still two totally different guitars.
Boy, this cold sweat is killing me!
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Post by Chris Lucker »

JD
The keyheads are not attached to the necks, but they may be in partial or full contact with each other depending on the particilar guitar. Under the roller nut there is a recess that had been milled away allowing a pocket for the unsightly end of the aluminum neck to hide. I have taken four push pulls apart. on one of them the tips of the necks came nowhere close to touching the inside of the keyheads. On one guitar the contact was pretty tight and full -- well as full as sloppy and hidden end mill work will allow. The other two guitars had one neck that touched on the left corner but maybe not the right corner -- you get the idea.
My 1090D 1967 Norlin Emmons D10 Bolt-on may or may not have full contact. I have not had the keyheads off to see. This is a non-original guitar, by the way. Mike Cass changed the strings, but he did a good job. He did all his work to Factory specs except a 0.012" Number three. Darn it! I guess I should never have had that work done.
Chris
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Post by J D Sauser »

If they don't touch, I don't see why they would detune so much due to temperature changes... one would think that the neck is solidly attached to the body on the PU side and could extend and contract to the left in that keyhead pocket, so that the scale lenght and tuning would remain unaffected by this movement.
Do the ones that touch sound better than the ones who don't?

... J-D.
<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by J D Sauser on 28 March 2005 at 01:18 PM.]</p></FONT>