Fender 1000 setup help

Kevin Ruddell · Post by **Kevin Ruddell** » 27 Dec 2004 5:34 pm

I'm stringing and setting up a Fender 1000 D8 Pedal, and printed out the manual for the earlier model of the 1000 that a forum member kindly posted . Unfortunately some of the words are not very legible , esp. the tunings and adjustments in the manual. They do look pretty comprehensive for the A6 and E7 tunings Fender sent the guitars out with.
I understand the end adj. screws for raising and lowering string adjustments but am not sure if the pedal travel is to be set in any particular way other than just above the floor ? Any tips would certainly be appreciated.
I also wasn't sure if the pull rod hook end goes in the bell crank closest to the body edge so the hook faces in towards the player or the other way around ?
If I set up the inside neck with the 5,6,7,8 pedals and the eight strings lo to hi FACEGACE ; will the C6 instructional material that is available be something that will work ? Since I don't have any knee levers or ten strings that is . There are some screw holes in the bottom of the metal body and wood bottom where it appears a previous owner maybe mounted a lever and then removed it.

basilh · Post by **basilh** » 27 Dec 2004 5:59 pm

With regard to pull rod hook end,
You can see it quite well here

(Courtesy of Darvin Willhoite)although this model is an early 1000 , the later ones had two holes for the pedal rods to allow more or less travel and leverage, as here... http://groups.msn.com/TheBritishSteeliesSociety/basilhenriques.msnw?action=Sho wPhoto&PhotoID=135

You can hear a Fender 1000 here.. http://www.waikiki-islanders.com/html/live_1.html
click on any of the tracks..

Basil

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Steel players do it without fretting

http://www.waikiki-islanders.com

[This message was edited by basilh on 27 December 2004 at 06:00 PM.]

David Coplin · Post by **David Coplin** » 27 Dec 2004 9:22 pm

Kevin,
Basilh beat me with the answer to part of your question. For the pedal rods: Hook the rods with the hooks pointing towards the player. It makes it easier to hook them up and remove them with the pedal board installed on the legs.Adjust each pedal to whatever feels comfortable to you but keep them high enough for full travel when pressed.
Remove any slack in the pull cables by turning the turnbuckles. Setting up the pedals and the pull cables to the proper pull-fingers is very easy on the 1000.You have two end adjust screws for each string.
The front screw raises and the rear screw lowers ( its the one with the spring )
You can use the Emmons set-up which you can find on a earlier forum post. Your
tuning FACEGACE (bottom to top) will work
but you wont have the knee levers, You will still be able to get a lot of great C6th
chords. E-mail me if I can help you with any more questions. I have a 1000 with a e9th & C6th setup with tone to the bone.
Dave

Kevin Ruddell · Post by **Kevin Ruddell** » 28 Dec 2004 2:58 am

Thanks Basil and Dave for your help and the pictures.

Donny Hinson · Post by **Donny Hinson** » 28 Dec 2004 9:26 am

The silver screws in the endplate are for the raises, and the black screws control the lowers. There are no "pedal stop" screws. This was the primary cause of the loops breaking (when too much pedal pressure was applied). The height of the pedals could be adjusted on older models by turning the thumbscrew on the top of the pedal. The Fender-suggested tunings and setups were pretty dismal, and better tuning/pedal setups have been discussed here occasionally. Do a search using the words "Fender" and "1000" to find applicable threads.

Jody Carver · Post by **Jody Carver** » 2 Jan 2005 1:50 pm

I'm trying hard to limit my time to a few minutes a day on the computer. But I want to compliment Basil for a fine display of steel playing. Very good Basil. Enjoyed your playing very much.

Best to you.

basilh · Post by **basilh** » 2 Jan 2005 7:38 pm

Thanks Jody.....could you possibly e-mail me..
Thanks
Basil
click here :-
basil@waikiki-islanders.com