Emmons p/p question
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D Schubert
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Emmons p/p question
Can somebody describe (or post pictures) of the different types of p/p changers used over the years? I would like to be able to tell them apart.
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Herb Steiner
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The changer has always been basically the same, it's the mounting system that has been changed over the years.
There's a website who's URL I've lost that has uses some close-ups of a few of my guitars showing each of the mounting types. Someone on the forum surely can post this for you.
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Herb's Steel Guitar Pages
Texas Steel Guitar Association
There's a website who's URL I've lost that has uses some close-ups of a few of my guitars showing each of the mounting types. Someone on the forum surely can post this for you.
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Herb's Steel Guitar Pages
Texas Steel Guitar Association
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D Schubert
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Bobby Bowman
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Herb Steiner
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Well, I'll agree with Bobby, but I don't agree that the length of the changer fingers... C6 and E9... being 1/4" different is a change in the design of the changer itself, since the length of the changer fingers have remained constant since late 1964.
HOWEVER...
Why I said the changer has "basically" stayed the same is that the very early guitars, like the first 10, had the tuning screw holes lower and closer together on the endplate, with the pickup jack between the two rows of holes, rather than above them. That means the first changer fingers had the tapped holes for the tuning screws in a different place.
I've owned Emmonses #7 and #8, and they both had this characteristic. I currently play #18, and that guitar has the screw holes in the traditional position.
Also, the original changers had holes for 1/2" axles. By guitar #23 (May 1965) the changers used 9/16" axles.
Mike Cass could speak more on this topic, but I think I have the basics.
This is SUPER trivia, but technically it is a change.
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HOWEVER...

Why I said the changer has "basically" stayed the same is that the very early guitars, like the first 10, had the tuning screw holes lower and closer together on the endplate, with the pickup jack between the two rows of holes, rather than above them. That means the first changer fingers had the tapped holes for the tuning screws in a different place.
I've owned Emmonses #7 and #8, and they both had this characteristic. I currently play #18, and that guitar has the screw holes in the traditional position.
Also, the original changers had holes for 1/2" axles. By guitar #23 (May 1965) the changers used 9/16" axles.
Mike Cass could speak more on this topic, but I think I have the basics.
This is SUPER trivia, but technically it is a change.
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Chris Lucker
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Herb,
Were the 1/2 inch axles made from valve stem shafts?
Did Emmons use cast fingers on your #7 or #8?
Were there spacers or washers between the fingers on #7 and #8?
Finally, when did the bulkheads or pillars or whatever you call the axle holders get closed-ended?
Thank you<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Chris Lucker on 15 December 2003 at 04:33 PM.]</p></FONT>
Were the 1/2 inch axles made from valve stem shafts?
Did Emmons use cast fingers on your #7 or #8?
Were there spacers or washers between the fingers on #7 and #8?
Finally, when did the bulkheads or pillars or whatever you call the axle holders get closed-ended?
Thank you<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Chris Lucker on 15 December 2003 at 04:33 PM.]</p></FONT>
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Brad Sarno
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http://home.earthlink.net/%7Ebradsarno/66photos.html
Here's a look at a '66 bolt-on changer. This changer remained with the wood necked guitars after '66. When the changer was bolted directly onto the aluminum neck as these were, there were tuning issues relating to wood/aluminum expansion differences. This changer was short lived on a metal neck for that reason. But there was a sound like no other. That's the sound that the George L's E-66 pickup was modelled after. It's pretty great sounding. Very deep and rich. Ballsy. The guitar that is.
Brad Sarno<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Brad Sarno on 15 December 2003 at 11:26 PM.]</p></FONT>
Here's a look at a '66 bolt-on changer. This changer remained with the wood necked guitars after '66. When the changer was bolted directly onto the aluminum neck as these were, there were tuning issues relating to wood/aluminum expansion differences. This changer was short lived on a metal neck for that reason. But there was a sound like no other. That's the sound that the George L's E-66 pickup was modelled after. It's pretty great sounding. Very deep and rich. Ballsy. The guitar that is.
Brad Sarno<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Brad Sarno on 15 December 2003 at 11:26 PM.]</p></FONT>
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Herb Steiner
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Chris
1. I don't know what the axles are made from.
2. The raise fingers look like they are roughly machined.
3. On #8 there is one large spacer between the s.1 changer finger and the axle pillar. I no longer have #7.
4. On #8 the axles are exposed. On #18 the axles are concealed. Number 18 is a wraparound, while #8 is a woodneck bolt-on, as was #7.
One thing more. On the bolt-ons #7-8, the axle pillars mount flush to the top of the tailpiece section, while later bolt-ons have deeper mounting pillars that sit in a milled shelf at the rear of the tailpiece.
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<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Herb Steiner on 16 December 2003 at 12:47 AM.]</p></FONT>
1. I don't know what the axles are made from.
2. The raise fingers look like they are roughly machined.
3. On #8 there is one large spacer between the s.1 changer finger and the axle pillar. I no longer have #7.
4. On #8 the axles are exposed. On #18 the axles are concealed. Number 18 is a wraparound, while #8 is a woodneck bolt-on, as was #7.
One thing more. On the bolt-ons #7-8, the axle pillars mount flush to the top of the tailpiece section, while later bolt-ons have deeper mounting pillars that sit in a milled shelf at the rear of the tailpiece.
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Herb's Steel Guitar Pages
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<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Herb Steiner on 16 December 2003 at 12:47 AM.]</p></FONT>
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Herb Steiner
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One more thing about the early-early guitars. The raise fingers only had one connecting hole for the pull rods. And the pull rods were connected to the fingers not by heavy wire, but by heavy springs.
Prices:
Twin 10 (8 pedals) $995, Single 10 (6 pedals)$595. Extra pedals were $72.50, and knee levers $69.50
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Herb's Steel Guitar Pages
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Prices:
Twin 10 (8 pedals) $995, Single 10 (6 pedals)$595. Extra pedals were $72.50, and knee levers $69.50
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Herb's Steel Guitar Pages
Texas Steel Guitar Association
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Herb Steiner
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Rear aprons were cut in 1964.
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Charlie McVay
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i just joined this forum and seen it for the 1st time about 2weeks ago.i own 6 p/ps and restored or rebuilt many of them.i have 2 with wooden necks.one is a 76 and the other is a 69 #1287.this is a split tail and not a bolt on.my 76 is a bolt on.the changers are made of 2024 aluminum the shaft is 1020-1040 steel and is 9/16 dia.the fatback started in 1970.i not disputing anything, just trying to help.my 69 used to belong to tommy dodd.
Charlie McVay
ps:hi Mike Cass!
Charlie McVay
ps:hi Mike Cass!
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