Tuning Nuts on MSA Classic
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Jim Eaton
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- Location: Santa Susana, Ca
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Tuning Nuts on MSA Classic
I'm cleaning up and tweeking my MSA SD-12 4X4 that started life as a D-10 and need to replace the nylon tuning nuts as several are in bad shape and there are several different brand/type on there now. The existing nylon nuts are about 3/4" to 1" long.
The way it is set up now has the nylon nut on the end of the pull rod and between the changer side of the nuts and the changer fingers is a short piece of tubing.
Is this the "stock" set-up? Can I use longer nuts and do away with the "tube's"?
I plan to move the ABC pedals over one spot to put a "0" pedal G#-G in the normal A pedal spot so I'll have the guts out of guitar to re-rod it to do this and figured it would be the best time to get the tubes out of there if I don't need them.
Also can someone tell me how/where to adjust the stop on the Right moving KL's?
JE:-)>
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Emmons D10 8/4 P/P -75'
Fessenden SD-10 3/5
MSA SD-12 4/4 - 76'
76'Session 400
86'Nashville 400
Bandit 112
<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Jim Eaton on 05 November 2003 at 03:46 PM.]</p></FONT>
The way it is set up now has the nylon nut on the end of the pull rod and between the changer side of the nuts and the changer fingers is a short piece of tubing.
Is this the "stock" set-up? Can I use longer nuts and do away with the "tube's"?
I plan to move the ABC pedals over one spot to put a "0" pedal G#-G in the normal A pedal spot so I'll have the guts out of guitar to re-rod it to do this and figured it would be the best time to get the tubes out of there if I don't need them.
Also can someone tell me how/where to adjust the stop on the Right moving KL's?
JE:-)>
------------------
Emmons D10 8/4 P/P -75'
Fessenden SD-10 3/5
MSA SD-12 4/4 - 76'
76'Session 400
86'Nashville 400
Bandit 112
<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Jim Eaton on 05 November 2003 at 03:46 PM.]</p></FONT>
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Donny Hinson
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RKR should have a stop! It should be on the apron, where the "actuator" (on the end of the cross-rod) is mounted. (The "actuator" looks almost like a 4-hole bellcrank).
Don't eliminate the aluminum spacers. They weren't put there just for "giggles"! Long plastic nuts would wear out rapidly rubbing against the endplate. And if you used long metal nuts instead, they would wear deep grooves in the end-plate. The spacers also act as an isolator between the fingers and the tuning nuts, and this prevents the tendency of the pulling fingers to turn them due to torsional forces.
Don't eliminate the aluminum spacers. They weren't put there just for "giggles"! Long plastic nuts would wear out rapidly rubbing against the endplate. And if you used long metal nuts instead, they would wear deep grooves in the end-plate. The spacers also act as an isolator between the fingers and the tuning nuts, and this prevents the tendency of the pulling fingers to turn them due to torsional forces.
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Keith Murrow
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Ulf Edlund
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A downloadable MSA owners manual. http://www.steelguitarinfo.com/downloads/OwnersManuals/index.html
I agree with Donny and Keith about removing the spacings. Don't do it.
Uffe
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MSA Classic SS, Twenty strings, Some fingerpicks, A volume pedal, A few amps and a bunch of other stuff.
I agree with Donny and Keith about removing the spacings. Don't do it.
Uffe
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MSA Classic SS, Twenty strings, Some fingerpicks, A volume pedal, A few amps and a bunch of other stuff.
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Jim Eaton
- Posts: 2648
- Joined: 27 Sep 2000 12:01 am
- Location: Santa Susana, Ca
- State/Province: California
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Thanks Guy's!!
I down loaded the manual and can now get on with my re-rodding job!
I'll leave the tube's right where they are!
As this guitar has been converted from a D-10 to and SD-12, I was not sure if the tubes were part of the stock set-up or if they were someone's "work-around" for not having the correct length nuts.
JE:-)><FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Jim Eaton on 06 November 2003 at 08:31 AM.]</p></FONT>
I down loaded the manual and can now get on with my re-rodding job!
I'll leave the tube's right where they are!
As this guitar has been converted from a D-10 to and SD-12, I was not sure if the tubes were part of the stock set-up or if they were someone's "work-around" for not having the correct length nuts.
JE:-)><FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Jim Eaton on 06 November 2003 at 08:31 AM.]</p></FONT>