Different tunings for Fender 400 ?

Jeb Baldwin · Post by **Jeb Baldwin** » 14 Oct 2003 5:43 pm

Does anybody know any alternate tunings for the FENDER 400? Mine is in some sort of 'E' tuning.

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Justin B. French · Post by **Justin B. French** » 14 Oct 2003 9:51 pm

On my Fender 400 I have the standard E9th tuning using the top 8 strings. From the top, F#, Eb, G#, E, B, G#, F# and E. The first 3 pedals are the standard A, B, and C E9th pedals. The fourth pedal I use to lower the E's. To tell you the truth I hardly ever play it any more, its hard to go back to it after I got my Carter D10. I find it hard to go back and forth because the strings are further apart on the Fender and the pedals are harder to work with. Hope this helps, Jud

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Carter D10, Fender 400
Nashville 1000, Goodrich L-120
DigiTech RP-100

basilh · Post by **basilh** » 15 Oct 2003 1:25 am

Hello Jeb, I use an alternative set of tunings on my Fender 1000...
based on an A7th tuning, you can see the set-up here :- http://www.waikiki-islanders.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/tunings.html

Baz
BTW you can HEAR it in use here :- www.waikiki-islanders.com

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Steel players do it without fretting

http://www.waikiki-islanders.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk

C Dixon · Post by **C Dixon** » 15 Oct 2003 4:30 am

I am curious. How in this world are you folks able to keep a high G# on either a Fender 400 or 1000? I was never able to; no matter what I tried. MOST strings broke the instant I engaged the A pedal.

On the 800's and 2000's it was no problem, since these models had a moving bridge type of changer. But No way could most of us ever make a high G# work on the above models. Many of us tuned down to D9th instead so the G# was an F#.

When I received my brand new 400 with 6 pedals, it was tuned to A6th and pulled to a version of E. The top string was an E as was standard in those day. The tuning had a number of good changes. But, I changed this quickly when I saw another PSG player pulling to A from E (on the old black and white TV show featuring Jimmy Dean). It just appeared more natural to me.

We had not split the pedals into A and B as yet. This did not happen until a few years later. We were all doing the Bud Isaacs thing at the time. I have always liked some of the changes that guitar came with tuned to A6th. But I still believe 'tis better to pull into A from E; rather than the reverse.

Volume pedals had not come on the scene for most of us, so using both feet was the norm. Then I went to see a Hank Thompson show that came to town and saw Curly Chalker with a Fender 1000 with 11 pedals. He was using a volume pedal and I saw his left foot dance across those pedals like no one ever before; or since.

He was using two Fender bassman amps with the tweed covering. A tone I shall never forget; as he embellished that classic HT sound like a great magician would enhance a stellar vaudeville show.

May Jesus rest Curly's soul,

carl[This message was edited by C Dixon on 15 October 2003 at 05:37 AM.]

Jeb Baldwin · Post by **Jeb Baldwin** » 15 Oct 2003 4:48 am

Mr. Dixon; My FENDER has never had a problem with breaking strings. When I got this guitar, I started playing it and just got used to it. Mine only has 4 pedals. Your guess is as good as mine.

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Jeb Baldwin · Post by **Jeb Baldwin** » 15 Oct 2003 4:53 am

Basilh; Thats a really cool sound.I think I have a tuning chart for that tuning. I will have to dig it out and experiment. Thanks

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Moon in Alaska · Post by **Moon in Alaska** » 15 Oct 2003 11:05 am

Carl is correct in that a lot of the
Fender 400 were long scaled....
My 1962 Fender 400 has a 23 inch scales
and the late changer/bridge combination.
I use the high G# and it is not bad for
breaking strings... I might break one in a
month when I use to play it a lot...
It seems to be about the same as my Carter
for breaking strings...
I have seen several of the old style ones and they are real bad to break strings !!
Moon

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<< Moon Mullin in Alaska >>
==Carter S-10==
<< Old Fender-400 >>
== Evans FET 500 Custom LV ==
<A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/moon9999610/alaska.html" TARGET=_blank>
CLICK HERE FOR MOON'S ALASKA WEB SITE</A>

C Dixon · Post by **C Dixon** » 15 Oct 2003 1:02 pm

Jeb,

I am again curious. Do you have the original changer where the strings were pulled over a steel bridge about an inch to the left of the changer. OR, do you have the later changer where the changer was the bridge itself?

If you have one of the originals (light ASH body), and you pull a high G# to an A, then you and your guitar are a miracle!

And don't ever let that sapsucker out of your sight, since you got the only one in the world that is not a stang braker!!

carl

Jeb Baldwin · Post by **Jeb Baldwin** » 15 Oct 2003 3:00 pm

Mr. Dixon,
My guitar is The kind where the changer is the bride itself. I guess that explains it. I LOVE this guitar to no end. The sound is perfect for the old music I like to play, Ray Price Buck Owens, Carl Smith Faron Young etc. Thanks for yalls reply.

Jeb Baldwin · Post by **Jeb Baldwin** » 15 Oct 2003 3:28 pm

Mr.Moon,
If you would please explain what each string is tuned in and what your knee levers do and how many. If it is a secret I understand, but my dad has asked me about the possibility of adding knee levers. My guitar only has 4 pedals, and 8 strings.My guitar is the same color as yours, but mine has alot more road rash.Thanks

Bill Hatcher · Post by **Bill Hatcher** » 15 Oct 2003 4:38 pm

Carl.

Your description of CC playing a 1000 through TWO tweed 4-10" Fender Bassman amps was just too much! I can only imagine how that must have sounded.

Carl there are several models of the Fender 400/1000. Even though they are called by the same number, the changer is different. The older 50s 400/1000 guitars had the changer you are referring to on your guitar. String pulls over a round bridge. The 60s 400/1000 has the cam style single raise/lower changer that you thread the string under and then back over the cam toward the nut. The cam rocks back and forth and eliminates the string breakage or tames it down at least. The 800/2000 guitars have the same changer with a double raise/lower hookups.

I am still looking for a decent condition 800 or 2000 for a good price if someone has one that needs a good home. Email me.

C Dixon · Post by **C Dixon** » 15 Oct 2003 4:49 pm

Yes Bill,

I am well aware of all their models. This is why I had to raise the question. The facts are, the original 400's and 1000's with the round steel fixed bridge were indeed string breakers. There is no way ANY one could get a high G# to stay on there.

However, when Fender changed to the cam type moving bridge changer, this immediately solved the problem.

Thanks for your input,

carl

Moon in Alaska · Post by **Moon in Alaska** » 15 Oct 2003 4:57 pm

Jeb....
I installed 3 homemade knees on mine
many years ago.When I purchased mine new, I ordered it with 2 additional pedals, six
total.
I used the cables from pedal 4-5-6 for
my knees.

I use a hybred E-9th tuning. I have only one
of the chromatic strings, the F# for my
first string.
I have a knee which which lowers the E to
D#.
My tuning does not have the middle F# string.
My tuning from the high strings down =
1st-F#, 2nd-G#, 3rd-E, 4th-B, 5th-G#,
6th-E, 7th-C#, 8th-B.
I use the standard Emmons setup on my
A-B-C pedals.
My LKR raised my 3rd string E to F#.
RKL lowers Both E strings to D#
RKR Lowers the 5th stringG# to G, and also
raises the 1st stringF# to G#.[These 2 moves
are not related.]
I play mine at least once a month,si I don't
completely lose the ability to play an 8 string...

If I can help you, feel free to click on my email...
Moon

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<< Moon Mullin in Alaska >>
==Carter S-10==
<< Old Fender-400 >>
== Evans FET 500 Custom LV ==
<A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/moon9999610/alaska.html" TARGET=_blank>
CLICK HERE FOR MOON'S ALASKA WEB SITE</A>

Tim Whitlock · Post by **Tim Whitlock** » 16 Oct 2003 5:23 am

Carl is sure right about the earlier models. My 58 Fender 1000 will snap a .011 string in E9 on the first try. I tuned everything down a step to D9 and a .012 will not break (with a tiny bit of oil on the nut and bridge). I have the two chromatic strings on my setup which means the problem string is now the 3rd string instead of the first. This means the angle of the string going from the nut to the tuning peg is not so severe, and this helps cut down on string breakage also. Took a little getting used to the D9 positions, but I find I like having the E on the second fret instead of the open position. FYI old-style 400/1000 owners.