Remove Scratches on Emmons endplates?

Tommy Everette · Post by **Tommy Everette** » 19 Dec 2014 2:20 pm

I bought a used LGII and it has some scratches in the metal parts and some other stains that NevrDull won't remove.

Lane Gray · Post by **Lane Gray** » 19 Dec 2014 3:20 pm

I'm sure there's metal polishing outfits near you. It should be not too expensive to have it polished.
If you can't find someone near you, Blue Mountain Metal Finishing in Bethel PA is reasonably priced.

Bob Hoffnar · Post by **Bob Hoffnar** » 19 Dec 2014 7:08 pm

Careful! You can make a big mess out of your steel if you don't take the endplates off before buffing out scratches.

Tommy Everette · Post by **Tommy Everette** » 19 Dec 2014 7:10 pm

Bob Hoffnar wrote:Careful! You can make a big mess out of your steel if you don't take the endplates off before buffing out scratches.

Are the endplates difficult to remove?

Tony Glassman · Post by **Tony Glassman** » 19 Dec 2014 7:40 pm

Bob Hoffnar wrote:Careful! You can make a big mess out of your steel if you don't take the endplates off before buffing out scratches.

Just what I was thinking!

Bob Hoffnar · Post by **Bob Hoffnar** » 19 Dec 2014 9:36 pm

I have never taken end plates off a steel so I don't know how hard it is to do.

Lane Gray · Post by **Lane Gray** » 19 Dec 2014 10:16 pm

I've never done it to a LeGrande (just Bud and MSA), but you should be able to see all the screws holding it in. You might have to remove all the pull rods and return springs to get at the screws for the changer end. You shouldn't need to pull the changer.

Bobby Boggs · Post by **Bobby Boggs** » 19 Dec 2014 10:21 pm

Are the endplates difficult to remove?

Not my intent to be a smart a$$. But if you have to ask. It's likely more than you need to get into. The key side is easy. The changer side involves a little work. But, if you have a dedicated work area? And your the kind of guy that's not afraid to overhaul your lawn mowers engine. You'll do fine.

chris ivey · Post by **chris ivey** » 20 Dec 2014 12:03 am

i wouldn't advise it in this case.
the steel should play just fine as long as you don't take it apart.

Lane Gray · Post by **Lane Gray** » 20 Dec 2014 12:27 am

They're aluminum. I don't think ANYONE has used anything else.

Erv Niehaus · Post by **Erv Niehaus** » 20 Dec 2014 8:44 am

It's simple, just remove the end plates and have at it with something like this, that's what I do!

Jim Pitman · Post by **Jim Pitman** » 20 Dec 2014 6:08 pm

If the scratches are deep you might want to sand it first. Lostso work but doable. I've seen over done polishing to the point one can detect a wave in the normally flat surface.

Micky Byrne · Post by **Micky Byrne** » 21 Dec 2014 6:22 am

Tommy you could always come to England and let me do a cover up like I did on my 2 univesal steels, Sho-bud and Carter...kinda like a "Tattoo"
Make over

..and have a vacation at the same time

Micky "scars" Byrne U.K.

Tommy Everette · Post by **Tommy Everette** » 21 Dec 2014 10:39 am

Maybe I could use a drill mounted buffing wheel and some polishing rouge...
Anyone tried that?

Bill Ford · Post by **Bill Ford** » 21 Dec 2014 11:01 am

Tommy,
Tape off the parts (body) before you try polshing, if the scratches are deep, try some #600 wet paper, then polishing/rubbing compound, then semichrome polish. Be careful and go slow..Bill

Micky....That is too cool..love it.

Micky Byrne · Post by **Micky Byrne** » 21 Dec 2014 11:40 am

Thanks Bill ....perhaps the finish on the "Magnum" steels were a good idea..I don't think they would show scratches, although they weren't too pleasing to some eyes. Have a good Christmas

Micky "scars" Byrne U.K.

Bill Ford · Post by **Bill Ford** » 21 Dec 2014 2:35 pm

Micky, the last one I/we built, I beadblasted the endplates...looked OK but didn't like it after it was put together, rebuilt it later and polished everthing, still showed scratches, just not as bad as polished.

BF

Micky Byrne · Post by **Micky Byrne** » 21 Dec 2014 3:10 pm

Hi Bill....I'd like to see a picture of your CLR....I'm always interested in S-12's ... maybe mail it to me micky2hearts@hotmail.co.uk or show it on here...Thanks

Micky "scars" Byrne U.K.

Bill Ford · Post by **Bill Ford** » 21 Dec 2014 3:59 pm

Micky, This one I built around 1985 for my son(lefty) converted it to righty about 1999,used a Marlen changer,pedals,etc that was leftover from a previous job. Added two changer pulls, made a 12 out of a 10 changer with the help of Charles Reese, a builder friend of mine. I built and finished the cabinet, did most of the machine work, Chas. did the final assy, & setup.I used red leather dye for stain. The keyhead looks like a Sho Bud gumby in the picture, but is the shape of a cowboy boot(my idea/design)This is the best picture I could find..computer crashed, haven't recovered all my pics & stuff yet..Bill

Micky Byrne · Post by **Micky Byrne** » 21 Dec 2014 6:08 pm

Look great and well built Bill. I like the matching "Pakka seat" too. Thanks so much for posting it. Send me your e'mail address Bill

Micky "scars" Byrne U.K.

Bobby D. Jones · Post by **Bobby D. Jones** » 21 Dec 2014 8:15 pm

First how deep are the scratches? Deep scratches can take some major work, May be worth removing the end plates and let a Pro do the work. If the scratches are rather small. Mask off and cover to protect the rest of the guitar. Take a good polish compound and 0000 steel wool till you get the scratches gone. clean up area. Take polish compound and put it on a piece of heavy Brown Paper Shopping Bag, Smooth down till scratches are completely gone. Clean up area. Now use the polish compound and a soft cloth to bring it back to a shine. Using the brown shopping bag with polishing compound is an old Army Engineer trick to get scratches out of brass belt buckles. Works good on cruddy plastic head light lens too. Good Luck.

Micky Byrne · Post by **Micky Byrne** » 22 Dec 2014 2:11 am

Hi again Bill, that's a Fessendon fretboard isn't it? .... I can now see the shape of the "Cowboy boot" Nice idea...standing from the side of the guitar, the toe area is to the left and the heel is on the right

Micky "scars" Byrne U.K.

Tony Glassman · Post by **Tony Glassman** » 22 Dec 2014 5:52 am

To properly (and safely) sand and buff the changer-side end plate. I know you must remove the endplate.

Having only removed P/P changers, I'm not certain (but probably Billy Knowles, Lynn Stafford, Mike Cass or Jack Stoner could chime in here) if whether or not the changer must first be removed. That entails de-rodding, removing the drops-crew spring assembly and aluminum necks (which overlie the front pillow block arm) etc. So if that's the case, you might as have the changer axle turned and changer fingers polished and do an entire rebuild.

The other option is whether just the split tone bar screws can just be removed and the endplate slipped out alone. That could be relatively easy.

My guess is that trying to truly polish the changer side end plate in-situ can cause damage to the mica or laquer fibnish + get the changer assembly all gunked up with buffing compound.

Tommy Everette · Post by **Tommy Everette** » 22 Dec 2014 6:13 am

I'll just leave it assembled and use a drill mounted polishing wheel and tape off the other parts.
One day maybe I'll pay Billy Knowles to restore it.
The scratches aren't horrible but they bother me. I like it to gleam.

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Remove Scratches on Emmons endplates?

Remove Scratches on Emmons endplates?

Remove scratches from emmons end plate

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