Do you have a preferred scale length ?

Stan Schober · Post by **Stan Schober** » 8 Mar 2014 6:34 am

Many of us have multiple guitars.
Do any of you find that you prefer a specific scale length ( 22", 24.5", 26" or ? )over another ?

Do you find slants easier ?
Prefer the sustain ?

Any reasons, post them here.

Doug Beaumier · Post by **Doug Beaumier** » 8 Mar 2014 6:48 am

I prefer short scale: 22 1/2" for easier slants on the lower frets. It's true that long scale offers a bit more sustain, but I don't notice any lack of sustain in short scale. Keep in mind that Jerry Byrd played 22 1/2" scale for his entire career.

Tom Pettingill · Post by **Tom Pettingill** » 8 Mar 2014 7:04 am

By itself, I don't think that longer scales necessarily have any significant amount of longer sustain, though they do seem to / can have a bit richer tone. I think good sustain is more a product of good construction design and details to include solid coupling of the bridge and nut.

For scale, I've been gravitating toward 24". With a 3/8" spacing at the nut, playability is very good with the bonus of the little better longer scale tone.

Doug Beaumier · Post by **Doug Beaumier** » 8 Mar 2014 7:07 am

I agree, Tom. Solid construction is very important for sustain, especially a quality nut and bridge.

C. E. Jackson · Post by **C. E. Jackson** » 8 Mar 2014 12:05 pm

Most of the instruments I enjoy playing are 22 1/2" scale. As noted above, reverse and forward slants are also easier for me on this scale. However, I have 25" scale steels. On the 25" scales, I find the slants harder when string spacings are close. It seems to me that the sustain and harmonics are a little better on the 25" scales. My favorite is 22 1/2" scale with 3/8" string spacing at the nut, and slightly less string spacing at the nut on 7 string instruments.

C. E.

Jim Williams · Post by **Jim Williams** » 9 Mar 2014 4:48 am

The two guitars I plan most are 22.5.

Edward Meisse · Post by **Edward Meisse** » 9 Mar 2014 9:34 am

Jerry Byrd did recommend 22 1/2 inch scale. I'm not sure he always played that. Weren't the Bakelites 23 inches? But whenever asked about equipment, his standard response was-if you don't know how to play, it doesn't matter what kind of (insert equipment name here) you have. And if you do know how to play, it doesn't matter what kind of (insert equipment name here) you have. As for me, I find the shorter scales a lot more playable. I'm not sure what that says about me.

Jean-Sebastien Gauthier · Post by **Jean-Sebastien Gauthier** » 9 Mar 2014 9:51 am

The slant angle is determined by the scale AND string spacing. A larger string spacing can make a longer scale more slant friendly.

You can use this calculator to find the difficulty. http://www.hawaiiansteel.com/instrument ... angles.php

Im used to a 23 scale with 2 1/4 at the nut but I ordered a Clinesmith with 24 7/8 scale with 2 3/8 at the nut and both guitar will have almost the same exact slant angle but I hope the Clinesmith will have a better tone and easier harmonics.

I think it will be the best of both easy slant and tone.

Like Jerry Byrd said, the equipment is not what is more important but I practice a lot these day and it will sure not hurt to have a beautiful well make Clinesmith lap steel to work on!

Tom Pettingill · Post by **Tom Pettingill** » 9 Mar 2014 10:10 am

Edit ... Jean beat me to it

...................................

Playability / slanting friendly really all boils down to geometry. While scale length is a very important part of the formula, string spacing at both the bridge and nut heavily influence the outcome too. John Ely has a neat calculator here where you can input your numbers and compare them to some of the classics. http://www.hawaiiansteel.com/instrument ... angles.php
Of note you can see why the classic Ric's are considered easy players and why that 22.5 Fender Deluxe8 might have felt a bit tougher.
One of the reasons I've been liking 24" is that if you keep the more friendly 3/8 nut spacing, the extra scale length is a minimal penalty. For a very comparable example, my P6 Deluxe is 24", but uses the classic B6 bridge and nut spacing. Where the B6 scores a 1, my P6D comes in at 2 and considerably better than anything Fender ever built.

Doug Beaumier · Post by **Doug Beaumier** » 9 Mar 2014 10:37 am

I noticed that with the Sierra 8-string lap steel. 24 1/4" scale, with a 7/16" spacing at the bridge and 5/16" at the nut. A fairly long scale, but I had no problem with slants on the lower frets because of the slightly wider string spacing. Now if they could just make it sound like a vintage steel guitar!

Jack Aldrich · Post by **Jack Aldrich** » 9 Mar 2014 11:14 am

I prefer 24 1/2" scale. It's a compromise - slants are a little harder than for a short scale, but string length and spacing work good for me. I have intermediate length Stringmaster and Canopus D8's that I play. My B6 Rick and my Deluxe 8 are short scale.

C. E. Jackson · Post by **C. E. Jackson** » 9 Mar 2014 1:20 pm

I have measured 4 vintage steels and calculated the Slant Angle and Ratings using John Ely's Slant Angle Calculator:

1935 7 String National Electric Hawaiian (Metalbody: 25" scale) 74.85° at Fret 2 - Rating 5

1939 7 String Gibson EH-185 CC PUP (22.5" scale) 73.28° at Fret 2 - Rating 3

1952 6 String Fender Champion (22.5" scale) 71.45° at Fret 2 - Rating 1

1935 6 String Gibson EHG CC PUP (Metalbody: 22.5" scale) 71.37° at Fret 2 - Rating 1

The Ratings seem to agree with the increasing difficulty I experience when playing the longer scale steels.

C. E.

Jean-Sebastien Gauthier · Post by **Jean-Sebastien Gauthier** » 9 Mar 2014 2:09 pm

My Clinesmith will have 74.63° at fret 2 - Rating 4. Not bad for a long scale! Its better than a Fender DX-8 22.5".

Edward Meisse · Post by **Edward Meisse** » 9 Mar 2014 2:37 pm

My main trouble is getting the slants on the longer scales with the Jerry Byrd sized bar. Bigger bars present me with handling problems. I haven't tried it in a while. But if I remember right, the Byrd bar just does cover it if one is sufficiently precise.

C. E. Jackson · Post by **C. E. Jackson** » 9 Mar 2014 3:14 pm

Edward, you might want to try the Broz-O-Phonic Bar. The size is 3/4 x 3 which covers the lower frets better when covering 4 strings width spanning 2 frets. It also has a recessed end to assist with reverse slants.

C. E.

Edward Meisse · Post by **Edward Meisse** » 9 Mar 2014 3:19 pm

I do have some of those. They're my second favorite. I can make them work with some effort. It's just that the Byrd bar is so effortless.......

Stefan Robertson · Post by **Stefan Robertson** » 9 Mar 2014 11:24 pm

I agree with Jerry Byrd. It doesn't matter when you can play. A master of his instrument can play whatever genres/style he desires in whatever tuning he prefers/learnt.

Adam Nero · Post by **Adam Nero** » 12 Mar 2014 11:02 am

Jean-Sebastien Gauthier wrote:The slant angle is determined by the scale AND string spacing. A larger string spacing can make a longer scale more slant friendly.

i totally agree. i don't have my gibson steel book handy, so i don't know the exact string spacing, but the 24.5" scale on my gibson c520 is -- very -- manageable. i know they're not as collectible as the shorter scale version don helms played, but i'm pretty damn in love with the thing.

that goes double now that i've lost my dobro training wheels and traded my shubb sp-1 for a shorter bullet bar. loving the potential for more beautiful slants.