The effect of the nut on tone

Lap steels, resonators, multi-neck consoles and acoustic steel guitars

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Mike Neer
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The effect of the nut on tone

Post by Mike Neer »

Recently I posted that I was looking for a nut for a project that I was working on and several folks made suggestions (thank you). I ended up purchasing a few and also Bob Allen of Melbert Guitars generously sent me one and he even took the time to file it for my string gauges (thanks a million, Bob).

I have a steel which I like very much and it has sentimental value, being the first steel I ever bought, but something has always been wrong with the tone, and it stems from the strings, not the electronics. Something about the way the string vibrates was just wrong. The nut on this guitar, an old Electar Model M, was made of aluminum.

I removed the old nut and filed down the little nub that kept the nut in place and put Bob's nut on. Bob's nut is not a permanent solution because the headstock is slanted, but I was able to put it on securely enough to string it back up. The difference in tone was instant. All of the shortcomings the guitar had before were pretty much the result of that aluminum nut. I imagine if I changed the bridge it would also make a positive difference, but that would be difficult since the top of the steel (which is actually aluminum) would need to be drilled.

Anyway, if your guitar's tone is suffering or if you are playing one of the cheaper imports, I would venture guess that a new nut would make a substantial improvement.
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Jon Light (deceased)
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Post by Jon Light (deceased) »

Interesting. It is one of those long-wondered things. I'd love a pic.
What material is Bob's piece?
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Earnest Bovine
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Post by Earnest Bovine »

Unless you are playing an open string, how can the nut affect the sound? The string doesn't vibrate there.
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Mike Neer
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Post by Mike Neer »

That would be the logical mode of thought, but my experience has shown me otherwise. The difference was huge.

This is why engineering school didn't work out for me. :lol:
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Robert Allen
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Post by Robert Allen »

I use aluminum alloy for my bridge and nut material. Aluminum is a pure element but the word "aluminum" as we know it is a catch-all for many different alloys. Aluminum alloys are typically a mix of about 6 different metals in varying proportions. The result can be anything from very soft to structural or aircraft grade which although lighter in weight than steel can be harder than steel. Before passing judgement on aluminum parts, it is necessary to know which aluminum alloy is being used. The aluminum alloy I buy is structural grade which is fairly hard but still machines easier than steel.
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Mike Neer
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Post by Mike Neer »

This was a light aluminum nut, almost like pot metal. You're right--the top of the guitar is much more dense and it is also aluminum.
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Robert Allen
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Post by Robert Allen »

a definition of pot metal can be found at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pot_metal. There's a big difference between cast pot metal and the extruded aluminum that I use. I agree the metal I use is lightweight but that's where any possible similarity ends. Pot metal doesn't come anywhere close to having the strength of extruded structural grade aluminum alloy.
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George Piburn
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Brass

Post by George Piburn »

I am in full agreement with Robert Allen about Aluminum Alloy and machining.

GeorgeBoards is all about 360 Brass, and now of days Nickel Plated for prevention of tarnish and looks. WE like the unique tone and sustain of the material.
It is simply a personal choice and it machines easily too.

I have tried Stainless Steel -- Soft and Hard Aluminum and we know how to do the Case Hardened Steel similar to StringMasters.

The Import Rouge types use Rose Wood Nuts -- any metal can be an improvement in general.
Bone - Corian - Graphite - are a few of modern materials, Tom Pettingill and others can comment with their experience about these.

This is a good thread topic and I hope it expands with more experienced builders input.
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Post by Robert Allen »

Yes, the sound of brass is excellent. I've made a few with brass parts but mostly my market is aimed at good quality while keeping prices as low as possible. Brass with nickel plating costs more than aluminum with powder coating. Georgeboards are definitely worth every penny but that's not my market. You can put only so much into a $400 to $500 lap steel and still show a profit.
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Post by Robert Allen »

If the nut material makes a big difference, should the slide we use be the same material as the nut for consistent tone?
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Rockne Riddlebarger
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Post by Rockne Riddlebarger »

As most of you know, every nut/bridge that you could make out of out of any variety of material will produce a different tonal effect when mounted on your guitar. The trick is finding one that brings out the most on a given guitar and that pleases the ear of the player/listener. Every steel bar has a different effect as do pick materials and degrees of stiffness as well as string gauges. Oh yeah, don't forget the biggest element in tone...the player! Each of us would sound different playing the same guitar. It's a lot of variables to deal with but if you take the time and can get all of these elements lined up, you'll be very happy with your tone.
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Tom Pettingill
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Post by Tom Pettingill »

The tone / voice of an instrument is the sum of its components and construction. The nut is certainly an important part of the equation and different materials can impart and or enhance certain overtones and nuances in its voice.
I don't think there is any one best, but rather lots of good but different options to chose from.

I believe that more importantly than just nut material, is that how well the nut is cut and mounted can have a bigger impact on tone. A poorly cut or lose nut can really detract from all that the tone can be.
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Mike Neer
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Post by Mike Neer »

I replaced the nut on the Rogue lap steel with the nut from Bob Allen and I think the sitar guitar sounds a lot better than it did in the clip I recorded.

I also replaced the nut on my Model M with a nut from Ryan Rukavina. I had to do quite a bit of work to install this nut, since the original nut sat on top of the aluminum top (about 1/4" thick) just above the fretboard. What i did was removed that portion of the top above the fretboard to fit the new nut perfectly. I started using my Dremel with a metal cutting wheel, but it made me nervous, so I actually filed it down by hand with a bastard file. Wow, what a lot of work!

Huge improvement in tone and playability, I must say!
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Andy Volk
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Post by Andy Volk »

I always replace the plastic nut on my Telecasters with a bone nut because it makes an audible improvement in tone. With a lap steel, doesn't the bar essentially become a moveable zero fret? If so, then it stands to reason that the bar has a greater impact on the tone than the nut except when playing open strings.

That said, I agree with Tom that the quality of the build, tightness of the joints, and the different tone transfer properties of various materials will all work together in a given instrument to create a situation where some frequencies may be enhanced or potentially diminished. It's something for which experimentation is the only real proof of the pudding.
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Andy Volk
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Post by Andy Volk »

I always replace the plastic nut on my Telecasters with a bone nut because it makes an audible improvement in tone. With a lap steel, doesn't the bar essentially become a moveable zero fret? If so, then it stands to reason that the bar has a greater impact on the tone than the nut except when playing open strings.

That said, I agree with Tom that the quality of the build, tightness of the joints, and the different tone transfer properties of various materials will all work together in a given instrument to create a situation where some frequencies may be enhanced or potentially diminished. It's something for which experimentation is the only real proof of the pudding.
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Mike Neer
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Post by Mike Neer »

In essence, what the new nut did was raise the overall quality of the tone from the bottom up.
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