Good sounding, affordable 6L6's for steel?
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Tim Whitlock
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Good sounding, affordable 6L6's for steel?
Is there such a thing? I've seen all the posts about everyone's favorite NOS 6L6, but they are usually beyond my means.
After doing some research on 6L6's I went down to see Lord Valve about investing in a set of Winged C's for my Twin Reverb. After explaining that I was after maximum clean headroom all the way to the top, he actually downsold me a set of Rubys for $65. Lord Valve has a street cred for being on the square, but I have found it can be hard to get what I want across to techs who understand guitar, but maybe not steel guitar. The Rubys are ok but nothing special. I seem to have some harsh distortion at higher volume levels, which may or may not be due to the power tunes.
Anyways, I'm looking for recommendations on a good sounding 6L6 in current production, preferably at $125 or less for a quad. Am I dreaming?
After doing some research on 6L6's I went down to see Lord Valve about investing in a set of Winged C's for my Twin Reverb. After explaining that I was after maximum clean headroom all the way to the top, he actually downsold me a set of Rubys for $65. Lord Valve has a street cred for being on the square, but I have found it can be hard to get what I want across to techs who understand guitar, but maybe not steel guitar. The Rubys are ok but nothing special. I seem to have some harsh distortion at higher volume levels, which may or may not be due to the power tunes.
Anyways, I'm looking for recommendations on a good sounding 6L6 in current production, preferably at $125 or less for a quad. Am I dreaming?
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Ron Whitworth
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Tubes
Hello Tim;
I will tell you about my experience with my amp tech & tube amps. I told him 5yrs ago the same as you did - I want it clean to the top. He advised me also to use Ruby tubes. He said they would do the job, were value priced, & would work as long as I did not throw or drop my amp. He did warn me that the glass on the Ruby tubes were thinner than most other brands but with reasonable care they would do what I wanted. I have had them in the amp for 5 years now with NO problems whatsoever. He checks my amp over every year & tells me the tubes are good to go & so far I have had no problems.
You said
"After explaining that I was after maximum clean headroom all the way to the top, he actually downsold me a set of Rubys for $65. Lord Valve has a street cred for being on the square, but I have found it can be hard to get what I want across to techs who understand guitar, but maybe not steel guitar. The Rubys are ok but nothing special. I seem to have some harsh distortion at higher volume levels, which may or may not be due to the power tunes."
I have found you cannot ( or at least I cannot ) expect to have a tube amp run clean to the top & also have great distorsion. You can't have it both ways - either great distorsion starting around 5 on the volume OR clean to the top.
Just my opinion on what I have found in tube Fender amps anyways.. Ron
I will tell you about my experience with my amp tech & tube amps. I told him 5yrs ago the same as you did - I want it clean to the top. He advised me also to use Ruby tubes. He said they would do the job, were value priced, & would work as long as I did not throw or drop my amp. He did warn me that the glass on the Ruby tubes were thinner than most other brands but with reasonable care they would do what I wanted. I have had them in the amp for 5 years now with NO problems whatsoever. He checks my amp over every year & tells me the tubes are good to go & so far I have had no problems.
You said
"After explaining that I was after maximum clean headroom all the way to the top, he actually downsold me a set of Rubys for $65. Lord Valve has a street cred for being on the square, but I have found it can be hard to get what I want across to techs who understand guitar, but maybe not steel guitar. The Rubys are ok but nothing special. I seem to have some harsh distortion at higher volume levels, which may or may not be due to the power tunes."
I have found you cannot ( or at least I cannot ) expect to have a tube amp run clean to the top & also have great distorsion. You can't have it both ways - either great distorsion starting around 5 on the volume OR clean to the top.
Just my opinion on what I have found in tube Fender amps anyways.. Ron
"Tone is in the hands. Unless your wife will let you buy a new amp. Then it's definitely in that amp."
We need to turn the TWANG up a little
It's not what you play through, it's what you play through it.
They say that tone is all in the fingers...I say it is all in your head
Some of the best pieces of life are the little pieces all added up..Ron
the value of friendship. Old friends shine like diamonds, you can always call them and - most important - you can't buy them.
We need to turn the TWANG up a little
It's not what you play through, it's what you play through it.
They say that tone is all in the fingers...I say it is all in your head
Some of the best pieces of life are the little pieces all added up..Ron
the value of friendship. Old friends shine like diamonds, you can always call them and - most important - you can't buy them.
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Joe A. Camacho
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James Morehead
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Re: Good sounding, affordable 6L6's for steel?
To bad you didn't start this thread last week---I just ebayed a beautiful quad of vintage Jan Philips 6L6GC's. The brought about $98. Email me if you are interested in a quad. shobud@windsteam.net I still have some stash.Tim Whitlock wrote:
Anyways, I'm looking for recommendations on a good sounding 6L6 in current production, preferably at $125 or less for a quad. Am I dreaming?
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Mike Fried
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As for current production 6L6 types, JJ's and Sovtek 6L6WXT+'s (not the 5881WXT) are the most rugged, and the Sovteks are a bargain to boot. I've seen (and bought) new matched quads of them on eBay for around $50 and they sound excellent in the Twins I've put them in. The Winged C's are also great-sounding tubes but somewhat more expensive than the Sovtek's or JJ's.
Don't forget, how the tubes are biased can have a big effect on their tone and distortion character, as well as their longevity. I start at 60% of max plate dissipation and go +/- from there.
BTW, Ruby is not a tube manufacturer, they are a tester/reseller. I believe their standard 6L6 is Chinese-made (pretty reliable but nothing special tone-wise).
Don't forget, how the tubes are biased can have a big effect on their tone and distortion character, as well as their longevity. I start at 60% of max plate dissipation and go +/- from there.
BTW, Ruby is not a tube manufacturer, they are a tester/reseller. I believe their standard 6L6 is Chinese-made (pretty reliable but nothing special tone-wise).
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Ken Fox
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Mike Fried
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Hmmm, it seems Sovtek and JJ have switched reliability factors over the years, at least for me. The only recent (2 years or so) failures I've had have been JJ's, no problems so far with the Sovteks. Maybe your sources for them are better than mine, Ken...
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Ken Fox
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Not sure. I have had a few fail, but usually right away. It is rare and I do a lot of tubes through the shop for sure. There was an issue for a while with JJ using smaller tube pins on the 6L6GC tubes. Those were good for ceramic sockets but proved overall to be a reliability issue for other sockets. that problem was resolved.
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Mike Fried
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My JJ 6L6GC failures actually happened right away as well, as did a couple of 5AR4's. I do remember the small pin problem, glad they sorted that out.
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Mike Neer
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6L6s are a real crapshoot these days, but my personal choice would be Svetlana. These are at the top end of current production 6L6s.
I'm thinking you may want to consider changing one of your 9 pin tubes to one with a little less gain. What brand of 12AX7s are you using? This makes a big difference. You can get into much more money in preamp tubes than with power tubes. You might try swapping out a 12AX7 for a 12AT7 in the phase inverter (the one right next to the power tubes) just to experiment, if it's not already a 12AT7.
I'm thinking you may want to consider changing one of your 9 pin tubes to one with a little less gain. What brand of 12AX7s are you using? This makes a big difference. You can get into much more money in preamp tubes than with power tubes. You might try swapping out a 12AX7 for a 12AT7 in the phase inverter (the one right next to the power tubes) just to experiment, if it's not already a 12AT7.
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Mike Neer
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Yes, you are correct. I paid $120 for a quartet of these.Jerry Erickson wrote:Mike you're talking about the real Svetlana tube,which is branded as "Winged C", not the Svetalana name that is owned by New Sensor/Electro Harmonix, correct?
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b0b
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Mesa/Boogie takes great care in getting high quality tubes for their amps. I think their price is probably in your ballpark, too. I found them at this site for $42/pair:
http://www.musicpower.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=COMBCR-6L6440
http://www.musicpower.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=COMBCR-6L6440
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Murnel Babineaux
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For maximum clean headroom, go with the Sovtek 6L6WXT+.
6L6EH, same tube, either one.
I've had a couple of these fail, but overall, they are dependable and give max headroom.
Ruby Tubes, Lots of reliability problems.
Svetlana "Winged C" Cyrillic brand. They have the sweetest sound of all current production tubes. These haven't been the most durable and reliable tube.
My experience with JJ's. If you want these to sound good, it might require bias adjustment to get them to operate at proper current levels.
With bogey tube ratings for average NOS and current level 6L6's, you should bias your Fender at around
-52 volts and level accordingly.
6L6EH, same tube, either one.
I've had a couple of these fail, but overall, they are dependable and give max headroom.
Ruby Tubes, Lots of reliability problems.
Svetlana "Winged C" Cyrillic brand. They have the sweetest sound of all current production tubes. These haven't been the most durable and reliable tube.
My experience with JJ's. If you want these to sound good, it might require bias adjustment to get them to operate at proper current levels.
With bogey tube ratings for average NOS and current level 6L6's, you should bias your Fender at around
-52 volts and level accordingly.
Rittenberry D10 E9/C6 Session 400