tuning question
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Jeff Hogsten
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tuning question
I used the Jeff Newman chart for years. I just got another steel after having to sell the one I had about two years ago. Right before I did I tried tuning straight up after reading about it on here and seeing emmons did it now and liked it better my question is. Dont they still temper the thirds some. How much if so. Any info is apprectiated
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David Doggett
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b0b
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Re: tuning question
I don't believe that Buddy tunes straight up, even if he swears an affidavit on a stack of Bibles. It doesn't sound like equal temperament to me. His "Harmonic Tune-Up" is still in print, and it's still a best-seller from the Forum catalog.Jeff Hogsten wrote:I used the Jeff Newman chart for years. I just got another steel after having to sell the one I had about two years ago. Right before I did I tried tuning straight up after reading about it on here and seeing emmons did it now and liked it better my question is. Dont they still temper the thirds some. How much if so. Any info is apprectiated
Trust your ears.
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Gary Preston
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Brad Malone
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tuning
Hey Gary, Forum member, "Will Sevy" posted a tuning method on Nov 25, 2005, that I still use today and I thank him very much for it. He tunes everything (E9th) to 440 except strings 2,3 and 6 which are tuned 10 cents flat...Knee lever raising strings 4 & 8 to F are tuned 18 cents flat and Knee lever lowering strings 4 & 8 are tuned 10 cents flat....this method works for me...I don't even use my Peterson tuner anymore, just my Chromatic tuner with the cents scale.
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Michael Douchette
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Re: tuning
Brad Malone wrote:He tunes everything (E9th) to 440 except strings 2,3 and 6 which are tuned 10 cents flat...Knee lever raising strings 4 & 8 to F are tuned 18 cents flat and Knee lever lowering strings 4 & 8 are tuned 10 cents flat...
Mikey D... H.S.P.
Music hath the charm to soothe a savage beast, but I'd try a 10mm first.
http://www.steelharp.com
http://www.thesessionplayers.com/douchette.html
(other things you can ask about here)
http://s117.photobucket.com/albums/o54/Steelharp/
Music hath the charm to soothe a savage beast, but I'd try a 10mm first.
http://www.steelharp.com
http://www.thesessionplayers.com/douchette.html
(other things you can ask about here)
http://s117.photobucket.com/albums/o54/Steelharp/
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b0b
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Actually, that sounds in the ballpark to me, except that you'd have to aim high of the frets to sound in tune with a band.Brad Malone wrote:He tunes everything (E9th) to 440 except strings 2,3 and 6 which are tuned 10 cents flat...Knee lever raising strings 4 & 8 to F are tuned 18 cents flat and Knee lever lowering strings 4 & 8 are tuned 10 cents flat...
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Jerry Hayes R.I.P.
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I've had good luck with my S-12 by just tuning anything with a sharp (#) to 438 everything else is 440 with the exception of the E to F raises, they're 438 also. This includes open tuning and pedal changes. I used the old Jeff Newman chart for years and this works much better for me in a band situation...........JH in Va.
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Charts and tuners and Ouija boards only get you in the ballpark. The aim, always, should be to tune it so it sounds good!
If it doesn't sound good, you're lost...completely and utterly - no matter WHAT the tuner says.
When people come to hear you play, they are listening, they're not checking a tuner or comparing you with somebody's chart.
If it doesn't sound good, you're lost...completely and utterly - no matter WHAT the tuner says.
When people come to hear you play, they are listening, they're not checking a tuner or comparing you with somebody's chart.
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Charlie McDonald
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That's the method Mike Perlowin uses, I believe.Jerry Hayes wrote:I've had good luck with my S-12 by just tuning anything with a sharp (#) to 438 everything else is 440 with the exception of the E to F raises, they're 438 also.
It's certainly a good starting point.
What's interesting is this quote from b0b's abstract on "Harmonic Tune-Up":
'This is the "just" tuning method in its truest form.'
Doesn't sound ET to me.
Those that say don't know; those that know don't say.--Buddy Emmons
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Archie Nicol R.I.P.
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If we could all tune to this standard, we'd all be very happy:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hEYdoNRW ... ed&search=
Arch.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hEYdoNRW ... ed&search=
Arch.
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b0b
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I can't take the credit. Tom Bradshaw wrote that description of Buddy's "Harmonic Tune-Up" lesson.Charlie McDonald wrote:What's interesting is this quote from b0b's abstract on "Harmonic Tune-Up":
'This is the "just" tuning method in its truest form.'
Doesn't sound ET to me.
Harmonic Tune-Up
Buddy takes you through his approach to tuning up an E9th neck (open and with pedals). He advocates utilizing the natural harmonic points on your guitar's neck and tuning the guitar to itself. This is the "just" tuning method in its truest form. By using unison-pitched harmonics, the oscillating "beats" between the two sounding notes can be eliminated to achieve a finely-tuned sound. Buddy reveals where all the proper harmonic positions are for you. Because of the need to play in tune at so many positions and in numerous chords, he reveals all those proper harmonic points that provide the best overall sound as is possible for all your strings and pedal changes. He recognizes that "splitting differences" is necessary for a pedal steel to be "in tune" in every chord and pedal position.
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David Doggett
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In all fairness, everyone should know there are two tuning "eras" for BE. He originally tuned JI (Just Intonation) by the harmonic method. But as his copedent got more complicated and he became more adventuresome with it, he gave up on that and began to tune almost straight up ET (Equal Temper), but lowering his thirds down to 438, which is about half-way between JI and ET.
On E9 the G#s on strings 3 and 6 are the 3rds of the E chord, and D# on string 2 is the third of the B chord. So BE's modern method is the same as Perlowin's and Jerry Hayes. The F#s on strings 1 and 7 are the 5ths of the B chord, and so want to be staight up 440. But they are the roots of the F# minor chord with the B and C pedals, and JI wants that to be 16 cents (4 Hz, or 436) flat of the minor 3rd (A) on strings 3 and 6 with the B pedal. So 438 nicely splits that difference. Therefore, tuning the #'s of E9 to 438 is a nice "in-between" or "tampered" tuning.
On E9 the G#s on strings 3 and 6 are the 3rds of the E chord, and D# on string 2 is the third of the B chord. So BE's modern method is the same as Perlowin's and Jerry Hayes. The F#s on strings 1 and 7 are the 5ths of the B chord, and so want to be staight up 440. But they are the roots of the F# minor chord with the B and C pedals, and JI wants that to be 16 cents (4 Hz, or 436) flat of the minor 3rd (A) on strings 3 and 6 with the B pedal. So 438 nicely splits that difference. Therefore, tuning the #'s of E9 to 438 is a nice "in-between" or "tampered" tuning.
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Gary Preston
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Joe Drivdahl
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Tuning
I thought Big E tuned his low E, D and B to 442, and the higher strings straight up. I like tuning my big E to 442 and the rest of the guitar accordingly keeping in mind that my F#s are fifths out of B. Seems to work for me, but heck, I can't even hold my bar straight.
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Charlie McDonald
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Re: Tuning
An E to E octave two Hz short of pure? I can't imagine.Joe Drivdahl wrote:I thought Big E tuned his low E, D and B to 442, and the higher strings straight up. I like tuning my big E to 442 and the rest of the guitar accordingly keeping in mind that my F#s are fifths out of B. Seems to work for me, but heck, I can't even hold my bar straight.
On a piano, the lower you go, the flatter it gets because of the way our ears hear.
The problem with JI is that somewhere there's going to be a glitch, or a 'comma,' to end up with a pure octave. F# seems to be the common place where something has to shift, to compensate for its intemperate nature. That seems to be the reason there are frequently compensators for F#.
Still, I try. Last time I tuned, I checked it and I had the sharped notes about 2 Hz flat and the rest straight up, more or less.
Those that say don't know; those that know don't say.--Buddy Emmons
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Joe Drivdahl
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b0b
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Bob Hoffnar
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This is not an issue on the pedal steel because all the sweet intervals can be moved to wherever we want them with the bar. The piano's "wolftone" modulation issues do not exist on our instrument.The problem with JI is that somewhere there's going to be a glitch, or a 'comma,' to end up with a pure octave.
What it comes down to is ear training and bar control if you want to play in tune. With students I let them tune any way they want. Many tune straight up and then after a while if it starts to sound sour to them I have them check out the Newman chart. Once they are comfortable with the instrument I just have them tune by ear. Some guys end up tuning pretty straight up and it works for them. Again, the key to good intonation is with your ability to listen, your understanding of what you are hearing and then being able to instantly adjust the bar to what you are hearing.
Bob
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David Fields
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Excuse me
I guess I don't understand, and please excuse my stupidity, but why not tune all strings to standard 440? The guitars and fiddles do. I saw Jeff Newmans tuning, and now I am confused. Tell me more!
Dave
Dave