Joe Morrell Pro 8 String Nut Modification

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Dom Franco
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Joe Morrell Pro 8 String Nut Modification

Post by Dom Franco »

I recently replaced the original plastic nut on my Joe Morrell Pro 8String lap steel.

It accomplished several things:
1. I increased string spacing to ~3/8" at the nut.
2. It has some added sustain with the steel nut.
3. I optimised string height for my favorite gauges.
4. It looks cool.

The main reason for the Mod was that I had trouble switching from my other lap steels because the Morrell had much closer string spacing at the nut.
Now slants are easier, and the spacing is more constant up the neck.

If any of you are intrested in it I can make you a new nut for a very reasonable price. E-mail me:
Domfranco51@hotmail.com


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Last edited by Dom Franco on 28 Jul 2008 9:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Dom Franco
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Post by Dom Franco »

OLD NUT

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Keith Cordell
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Post by Keith Cordell »

That was a timely post. I am about to do the same with my Melbert lap steel.
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Todd Weger
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Slots?

Post by Todd Weger »

Dom - did you cut string slots, or are you just running them over the nut?

Looks much better, and the string spacing looks way, way better. Nice job.

TJW
Todd James Weger --
1956 Fender Stringmaster T-8 (C6, E13, A6); 1960 Fender Stringmaster D-8 (C6, B11/A6); Custom-made 25" aluminum cast "fry pan" with vintage Ricky p'up (C6); 1938 Epiphone Electar (A6); 1953 Oahu Tonemaster; assorted ukuleles; upright bass
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Dom Franco
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Post by Dom Franco »

The nut is custom grooved for each string gauge.

I used 1/2 steel angle stock. (aluminum would work and be easier to cut) but not sustain as well.

1. I mark the locations, and make the first cut with a razor saw. (Exacto or similar)

2. I then use a triangular jewelers file to open up the grooves. (Deeper and wider for the bass strings, and very little for the 1st string)

3. I finish off each slot with a mini rat-tail file, and angle the back cut towards each respective tuning shaft.

4. Finally I work each groove and edge with a mini wire wheel to make it very smooth with no sharp edges.

5. I drill and countersink two holes for the screws in the base.

This is the same method I have been using for several years on my custom built lap steels.

http://www.freewebs.com/steelman777/lapsteelguitars.htm
Dom
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John Burton
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Post by John Burton »

Hows'the sound on the Morrell 8's?
Also hows the string spaceing at the Bridge?

I have a Morrell pro-6 that I replaced the nut on awhile back. I love the sound and scale, and keep thinking I should get an 8 stringer, but the Lipstick looking pickup scares me off.
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Keith Cordell
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Post by Keith Cordell »

Those lipstick pickups are absolutely lovely.
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Gary Stevenson
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Post by Gary Stevenson »

The string spacing must have been very tight!I noticed the original goes straight back on the low string and with you new one it is angled. I have used alum. angle stock which is easy to work with albeit don't make too heavy a cut esp. on low string. Never thought to try steel for the nut. Thanks for sharing your idea.I have stolen all I can from Tom Pettigril :D :D :D Sorry for bad spelling Tom!!
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Tom Pettingill
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Post by Tom Pettingill »

Thats a good mod .... wonder why so many companys still go narrow at the nut.

Steel and stainless make for a good nut, though my favorite is still bone or ivory.

NP Gary ... you came real close :)
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Dom Franco
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Post by Dom Franco »

I am just guessing, but I think steel builders make the strings closer at the nut, because thats the way standard guitar necks narrow out. But a steel guitar is a DIFFERENT INSTRUMENT! there is no real need to taper string spacing, or is there?

Dom :roll:
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Keith Cordell
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Post by Keith Cordell »

On my Melbert the string spacing is the same all the way down but is as tight as a 12 string PSG. I thought I could get useed to it but I am having it redone as a 7 string, widening the nut and drilling the body so the strings go through. Should be a good 'un when I get done.
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Post by Robert Allen »

I use aluminum and have it powder coated black. For those unfamiliar with powder coating, the metal is heated to 450 degrees F and then sprayed with a plastic powder giving a very thin layer of gloss plastic. It is much more durable than paint and looks nicer than anodized aluminum. Regarding sustain and tone, there are various grades of aluminum. The aluminum I use is as hard as steel. The grooves are laser notched for accurate spacing. I then file the slots deeper for the gauge of strings used. Some of my early lap steels used the narrow Morrell nut but those haven't been on my lap steels for a long time.
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Doug Anderson
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Re: Joe Morrell Pro 8 String Nut Modification

Post by Doug Anderson »

Dom Franco wrote: 28 Jul 2008 9:43 pm I recently replaced the original plastic nut on my Joe Morrell Pro 8String lap steel.

It accomplished several things:
1. I increased string spacing to ~3/8" at the nut.
2. It has some added sustain with the steel nut.
3. I optimised string height for my favorite gauges.
4. It looks cool.

Image
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/userpix0 ... rrel_1.jpg[/img]
See photos:
When you replace the nut, is the width at the bridge similar to other lap steels or is the width at the bridge closer than an SX8??

Also, are you still making this modified nut OR does anyone know of another source for these?

If the width is too close at the bridge, can this by modified or not since it uses a 7 string pick up?
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Dom Franco
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Re: Joe Morrell Pro 8 String Nut Modification

Post by Dom Franco »

To answer any questions about the nuts... Yes I still make them to order, Any width. any string spacing you want for any number of strings.
I am still making steel guitars as well. 6, 8, 10 and 12 strings. I use aluminum or steel angle stock for nuts and bridges.
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