zum steels

[Logan Holt]

Just a friendly question guys, where do you find a fair reasonable price to sell a ZumSteel D10

some are $7,000+

some are $3,500


I've seen older 80s model posted for both prices and up to the most recent. I've been told the newer ones sell higher because they are easier to change copedant on? I've also been told that is irrelevant and basically some guys like the new ones some like the old ones, just wondering what is the real scoop on these guitars or the real changes that make them be ranged from $3,500-$7,000

I mean this in a friendly no drama way, and wont start a war. I Have a MINT 1990 im considering selling to buy a Zum SD-10 because I don't play c6 at all. I have everything down to letters conversing with bruce to pick the color of mica with the mica samples included. also all recipts, zum steel binder/handbook with Notes from bruce in it.

I just want to sell mine and I want to be logical and not look like an idiot, but I also don't want to sell myself short in buying a SD-10 to replace this

[Douglas Schuch]

Depends a lot on condition. As for ease of changing things around, some prefer the early, some the later. I added levers to an '84 once, and with Bruce's instructions, it was no big deal. Earlier models are 3-up, 2-down - but that is not a big issue for most players. It also depends on how loaded it is. I don't know if Bruce is still selling additional levers and pedals - his prices were always more reasonable for them than most builders. But you can certainly add $100 or more for each one above 8x4. And remember, the asking price is not necessarily the selling price.

[Dave Mudgett]

I have a 1994 D10 and a 2001 U12. They're both excellent guitars, although I do have a preference for the later mechanics. I think the "improvements" were actually improvements, but I have liked every Zum I've played.

On value - I'm not gonna tell anybody what to sell something for. My take is that there are a lot of variables.

- Condition, both cosmetic and undercarriage

- Specific period - real early (late 70s and real early 80s), middle (mid-80s to late 90s) and later (late 90s onward)

- Among late versions - std changer vs. hybrid vs. version with pitch stabilization

- S10 vs. SD10 vs. D10 vs. U12 vs. ExtE9, etc.

- How many pedals and levers, and how are they configured

- Looks - e.g., mica (and which specific mica) vs. lacquer finish, and then there are some 2-tone mica patterns. I think looks can sometimes play a bigger role than people think, with any guitar or steel.

Keep in mind the fact that these are also no longer in regular production.

I would look at ads for the last few years and correlate them to the factors above. Take real good, clear pictures of everything - front, side, back, and clear shots of every aspect of the undercarriage. Then price it a bit higher than you think you might get. Not enough to cause sticker shock, but high enough you don't get a clamor of people instantly saying "I'll take it" and then get mad because they think "I'm first and thus entitled" but don't get it. You can always lower the price if it doesn't move, but if you raise the price after first listing it, people will get an attitude about you.

Also - if you price it a bit higher (and say $X or best offer), it gives you a little leeway to deal with people you want to deal with. Some people are a lot easier to deal with than others. Plus, there are other issues - where does it have to be shipped to, and so on.

[Paul Awalt]

Look for any year from 2002 and forward. Try to keep the price around $5,000 for mica, and add another $800 for lacquer. Look for a D-10 only played in a studio. From previous ownership experience.

[Jeffery Mercer]

Great Advise Paul…
Thank You!
Jeffery

[scott murray]

aren’t the “hybrid” model Zums the ones that go for so much more?