Push-Pull - issue with first string raise F# -> G#

[Brian Spratt]

My first string raise F# -> G# doesn't quite hit F#, even with the full travel of open (lowering finger resting fully against the endplate stop, no tuning screw) to fully raised (raise finger pulled against the body of the guitar), I always have to compensate slightly with the bar anytime I use this change.

Is this a common issue... any suggestions?

Maybe I should try a different gauge for my first string?

[Ricky Davis]

Yes; use a .013p for 1st string.
Ricky

[Henry Matthews]

There’s a way to hook up first string raise that will allow raise to G# with a lot less travel for knee lever. I’ll post you a pic later or some one may have one they can post.
Ricky is correct also. The bigger the string, the less travel you need to bring up to pitch.

[Joe Bill Moad]

Good Mornin Mr. Matthews!

Jbm
Oklahoma

[Henry Matthews]

Don’t know if you can see this good or not but hook raise hook to changer to hole where lower rod usually goes thru, remove the return spring and remove the Allen screw that adjust open tuning. This will let both changer parts go all way back. You can tune with the Allen screw that usually tunes lowers.

You can try this if the 13 gauge won’t work.

[Brian Spratt]

Thanks, all. Henry, that's how I have it setup currently. I'll give the .013 a try.

[Ian Worley]

It should not require any extra finagling to get the necessary range on that finger, even with a .012. I have that whole step raise on my PP and I've set it up on several others without any issues. I just checked on mine, if I back off the open tuning screw all the way I can get almost a full minor third of travel on that raise finger from F to G#. I still have at least 25% of the open screw adjustment range left when tuned normally. Seems like you have something else going on, perhaps something limiting the travel of the finger. Could be an issue of insufficient slack not allowing the open note return far enough. Is there a shock spring on that pull? Perhaps you could post some pics.

Another trick for a shorter pull without needing the work-around Henry suggested is to use a Sho-Bud two-hole bell crank for a little extra leverage. For best results you need to drill and tap a new set screw hole to align properly with the flats on the Emmons cross shaft, but it works really well. Good luck.