I love this D10 Sho Bud Professional II purchased a few months ago through the forum, but it came with a setup I was unfamiliar with. I've been setting it up, playing, and recording with it, and it sounds amazing.
I've only been playing for two years. I have the A and B pedals down, and the levers on the left knee raising and lowering the E's. The SD10 Sho Pro that I play live uses the right-knee left to raise strings 1, 2, and 7, which I'm told allows you to do a lot of 90's Paul Franklin unison licks. I would very much like to incorporate those into my playing, but I can't seem to get my rack & barrel onto the 1st string to raise it. It bumps into the last rod connector for the C6 neck.
What do I do? I don't really play anything yet with this lever- I want to start incorporating it. I want to learn some of these Paul Franklin unison licks, but I approach the instrument more chordally than with licks. Do I go with a different setup or somehow fabricate something to make this work or delete that pedal way on the end (I plan on learning C6 too, it all just takes a long time)?
I wouldn't want you doing anything that could get you into hot water (IOW stuff you don't have the experience to succeed at...) but --
I can't tell from that photo but I'd want to know if maybe moving the swivel puller to the top hole might give you clearance. You will need to remove the retaining ring and you will need specialized pliers to attach a new one. Actually, it looks like you may have already popped the old one off?
And not important but.....that is not a rack & barrel. It is the next generation. Barrel-behind-the-puller.
Jon - I have been taking these dang clips on and off and ordering special pliers for months now. What a pain these clips are! This guitar was set up in a way that required me to remove almost all these things and reposition them. Good news is everything is there, complete and working except this one thing I can't figure out.
the top hole is an improvement, but I still have to bend the rod to get it to work and it still makes contact.
I didn't know "Barrel-behind-the-puller". I like it more than the actual rack-and-barrel that I used to have I think once I'm done fooling with these clips!
Last edited by Ross Harrell on 12 Sep 2024 10:18 am, edited 1 time in total.
If there is clearance between low-hole rod placement of that 2nd string rod & barrel and high-hole placement of the 1st string's, could you move the 1st string puller over a bit? You can bend the rod like so.
That would work! I didn't know I could bend the rod. Is there a safest way to do that? Do I need to find a longer rod? it would not need to bend much, but then I worry about the rod acting like a spring and pulling straight while I'm trying to use it.
Location: Rocky Top Ranch, Bertram, Texas USA and Liberty Hill, Tx
State/Province: Texas
Country: United States
Postby Ricky Davis »
No do not bend the rod for Barrel tuning; you can't turn the rod without binding it up; plus you can't use the hole on the puller that is furthest from body as that will make the rod from the raise hole of the changer an angle that will bind up on the two changer holes it goes through. Ok here's the best you can do. put the roller in the other side of the puller; so that the clip is facing you that will make it easier to put the clip on/off. Then put the rod through the changer and into the puller just enough to loosen the set screw on puller to move it IN LINE so there's no rod angle; then tighten the puller with the puller ; if you can have in set a little more leaning towards the changer and tighten; just above that flat spot on crossbar. Ok NOW; use a .013p string. Tighten the lower return spring ALL THE WAY on that first string as it ONLY raises and you want the lower section That tight so the raise will move even better and quicker with that spring that tight and that size string.
I don't see a puller anywhere for the second string?? Cause if you want to raise 2nd you need its own puller....
FYI...a Straight strong rod pulls with less tension; therefore pulling it the way you want it.
Ricky
Thanks Ricky. I totally know you are right. I've never worked on a barrel-behind-puller but I know that you need to turn the rod. My only hands-on experience with barrels is with feeler-stop barrels on next-gen nylon tuner nut two hole swivels. So I saw these barrels and my brain farted.
Location: Rocky Top Ranch, Bertram, Texas USA and Liberty Hill, Tx
State/Province: Texas
Country: United States
Postby Ricky Davis »
Should I just raise the 2nd string only maybe?
Well I guess you don't know yet which change you would use MORE; find more useful to your playing?? So Try one for a while and try the other for a while...and you'll come up with it.
Ricky
I might be missing something but it appears that the pedal crank part of the cross shaft that the pedal stop is supposed to hit is totally missing the stop. Is the cross shaft of that pedal in the cross shaft mounting piece? It doesn't appear to be bent but the part of the cross shaft that's supposed to hit the adjustable stop is missing the stop completely.
I believe that Pali is correct. Since the pedal pull is welded to the cross shaft, just bend it back towards the apron until it is in line with the pedal stop screw. Problem solved! That stop screw isn't doing anything at the moment due to the pedal pull being out of alignment.
Michael
"Don't fergit to kiss yer horse!"
'72 Sho-Bud Professional D10, (in pieces .....), '78 MSA Classic XL D10, '69 Emmons PP, Fender 2000
Peavey Session 500 BW, Crate Digital Modeling Amp
