I love Antiques & challenging Bargains....

[Craig McClure]

I liked the Idea of Aluminum Lap steels, ever since becoming aware of them & had a chance to buy this one from a scrap dealer. It is/WAS a 1930'S VEGA I don't Know the model or year. This looks like a fascinating project. I studied all the photos of & it looks to be sound & rebuild-able.

In studying pictures of originals The 2 Pickups were tall split rail types, that I've not seen offered anywhere. I appreciate some knowledgeable suggestions, as I have some ideas about making a thin sheet metal, inverted U shaped cap for a modern single rail pickup. Unless a better idea comes along. I don't want to alter the original cast body in any way - so need to work around with what is there.

I'm hoping I can find a ready made fret board similar to what was original, & tuners that match existing holes.Mine had 2 knobs & split palm rests.

I realize I'm biting off a big bunch to chew - but in addition to enjoying the work - I'm affording to have something I couldn't afford - a bit at a time. Love more info. I couldn't post the sellers picture - But I have a stripped body coming - exactly same type/model as original pix. Thanks up dront, Craig
see pix of original survivors + My Bare casting that just arrived today.




[img]https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/u ... jpg[/img]

[Brad Bechtel]

I wish you luck with your project. Please keep us updated!

[David Matzenik]

Nice find. I am sure you will get knowledgeable suggestions on the PU here. A custom fretboard would be no big deal.

[Mark Perrodin]

try nick fryer to discuss your pickup questions.
try jim palenscar for fretboards.
both of these guys can help.
do a forum member search for contact info.

[Tony Oresteen]

Craig,

What is wrong with the existing fret board? If you can see the fret lines, no need to replace it.

I assume that you plugged it in and you get no noise from it.

Make sure the pot is good and the jack doesn't have a broken wire. If the pickup is dead it can be rewound. Nick is a good pickup guy as is Jerry Sentell.

Good luck with a very interesting project!

[Craig McClure]

Craig,

What is wrong with the existing fret board? If you can see the fret lines, no need to replace it.

I assume that you plugged it in and you get no noise from it.

Make sure the pot is good and the jack doesn't have a broken wire. If the pickup is dead it can be rewound. Nick is a good pickup guy as is Jerry Sentell.

Good luck with a very interesting project!

HI TONY, THOSE PIX YOU SAW ARE WHAT ORIGINAL SPECIMENS LOOK LIKE. I JUST ADDED PIX OF WHAT MY BARE CAST BODY LOOKS LIKE.
IT WILL NEED EVERYTHING REPLACED (or made). I'm very happy to have THE GOOD MAIN BONE - to work with. IT IS SERIAL # 13
Craig

[Noah Miller]

The later bodies like that with hand rests did not have rail poles but individual ones.

[David Matzenik]

If that were my project, I would consider converting it to 7 strings using the center space at the head.

[Craig McClure]

The later bodies like that with hand rests did not have rail poles but individual ones.

That is good news - I think - providing I can find some that will fit, that I can afford.
I think I've seen some adjustable pole Asian ones with soap bar style bodies.

IS THAT YOUR ALUMINUM VEGA ? THANKS for providing that picture. I have more questions:

*Is that the original FRET Board ? My scale is 25"
Mine is missing the back cover, How does that work ? ,,, & I'd like a peek at how the Pick-ups were originally mounted inside.
*Any suggestions about getting the hand guards made ? I can cut & drill - but may not be able to bend sturdy enough steel ??
*I'll also be looking for tuners, looks like the used small fine thread machine screws ? I'd like to find some of the new type sealed gear ones IF the screw pattern permits
* I'll need to make a bridge, thinking of steel unless a better suggestion.

Thanks up front, Craig in Jasper Ga. Phone, 706-509-2119
.

[Noah Miller]

Yes, that's my Vega. It's 100% original.

These had an aluminum cover that screwed into the casting, and then there was felt glued over the whole back that hid everything.



The hand rests are probably brass under the nickle plate ; they're definitely non-magnetic, so a copper alloy is my guess. A local machining shop may be able to bend some into shape for you, and then check out automotive plating houses for the nickel.

The original tuners were Grovers. Vega used a few different types of Grovers at the time, but as far as I know they all had the same screw spacing. A set of modern Sta-Tites will probably drop right in. None of the originals were sealed.

The bridge saddle is just a piece of wood, probably dyed maple. I haven't seen one that was actual rosewood or ebony.

[Tony Oresteen]

Craig,

Here is a C6 string chart for your 25" project:

[Craig McClure]

work Is moving along at a good pace, considering all the research,& scraping together funds to proceed. Immediately after cleaning years of dirt & huge petrified crushed Cicada (BUG), I noticed the remains of a silver blue metallic paint job on sides & head area. I toyed with the idea of an all bare aluminum finish - but they are hard to maintain. the face is bright polished aluminum & will stay that way. It is now wearing a gloss silver paint job, & appears to be all aluminum. Have installed a nice set of "sta-tite" Asian copies that fit my existing pre-threaded holes.
I've purchased single coil, Bridge, & Center, adjustable pole pickups, & am in process of replacing the threaded allen head metric poles with longer ones necessary to penetrate the guitar body & reach the strings - while sill making good contact with the magnets.I have devised an interesting mount plan. I also have found the screws for all pre-threaded holes from McMaster-Carr in atlanta.
Also purchased a pr of 250K dishback solid shaft audio taper Pots & looking for an orange drop 1uf Capacitor. I have a set of antique knobs.
i'm looking into an ebony fret board with star inlays. Doing alot of thinking about the missing rear door replacement, & dint like the center screw fastening. Getting a round plate of aluminum made will be costly & add weight. I like the idea of hinging a tempered Masonite lid with a finger hole & magnetic cabinet door latch.

STILL SEEKING: Thick Copper or Brass strap material - to fabricate split palm rests, + a source for Adhesive Backed FELT or adhesive FLOCKED SHEET.
Will post pix when further along.
Best Regards, Craig

[David Ball]

For metals, try Mcmaster.com or onlinemetals.com. They sell strap material in thick sizes. Amazon carries adhesive backed felt.

Dave

[Craig McClure]

I found some Material for the palm rests, & have been gathering bits as budget permits. The fret board is about 1/3 done. I have MOST of the components I need. Over the winter, I've done some serious hibernating, as it was very cold in my work area. Losing some feeling in my Right fingers has also given me some pause. Spring seems mostly here, & I'm feeling more enthused. Still lots to do, & I will proceed at a comfortable - but precise careful pace (differing from fast @78) ALL Positive thoughts gladly accepted.
Cheers, C.

[Bill Groner]

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I have 4 lapsteels made from 6061 aluminum. I use Gray Scotch Brite for the finish and it doesn't seem to oxide. I have some that are more than 5 years old and look as good as the day I built them. I sometimes lightly go over them just to take finger prints off[/color].[/color]