Franklin Pull Rods

[Jeremy Moyers]

Hello all,

I am needing to build a few new pull rods for my Franklin Guitar. I spoke with Paul Sr. several years ago about this and took detailed notes on what he said about the pull rods. He said that he used aircraft grade 1/8" aluminum rods. He made sure to say that he used full 1/8", 125/1000 aluminum rod and that it was aircraft grade, so I am assuming that these specs are important.

I have read on here that some people use 1/8" aluminum TIG welding rods as pull rods. I have used 4043 TIG welding rods in the past, but honestly they seem not to be nearly as rigid as the pull rods that came on the guitar from the factory. So, to my questions...

1). What is aircraft grade aluminum exactly? Is it 2024? 6061? As stated above, I have used 4043 welding rod in the past but have not been impressed by the durability of the product. From what I read 2024 is much more dense and stronger than other aluminums because it is also copper clad?

2) Do you know of a good source for 1/8" the aircraft grade aluminum rods?

I have the 1/16" roll pins that Paul Sr. used, and I have the #6-40 tap and die set, just trying to find the correct rods.

Thanks for the help!

Jeremy

[Johnie King]

The trick is drilling the small hole in the center of the 1/8 inch aluminum rod
For the 1//16 spring pin.
I’m sure Paul senior must have had a good jig for this .

[Johnie King]

[Bobby D. Jones]

Check length of rod when you order, Have it cut into 3 ft. lengths or less. Long objects have much higher shipping rate.

Make a jig out of a piece of heavy steel block. Drill 1/8" hole in 1 edge, Then drill 90 degree 1/16" hole perfect centered through 1/8" hole. Insert 1/8" rod in 1/8" and drill 1/16" hole through 1/16" jig hole. For perfect centered hole.

[Tim Toberer]

I read somewhere that you shouldn't use aluminum cause it expands and contracts. If Franklin uses them it must be fine. Maybe this alloy doesn't shrink as much? I have been using regular welding rod but would prefer aluminum cause it is lighter.

[LaVern Skarzenski]

I believe Gene Fields too was concerned with expansion/contraction of aluminum, but If Paul Franklin says he used it, it obviously worked for him. Here is a source.

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/metal ... inum-rods/

LaVern

[Patrick Timmins]

I make them pretty frequently in my shop. I also replace the aluminum with stainless steel so at least that one will not break in the future. You can also use a tighter nylon tuning nut on stainless rods than aluminum since the aluminum breaks so easy.
You can read this posting to see how I make them.
viewtopic.php?t=388896&highlight=

[Jerry Overstreet]

I once owned an '81 Zum D10 that I believe had aluminum pull rods. Of course I defer to Bruce.

Definitely not ferrous metal, lighter than any type of steel.
The color had a dull finish...MOF, I still have one of them.

Never any problems with them.

[Bobby D. Jones]

I have some 1/8" Aluminum pull rods, They are threaded 6-40 on 1 end, And have dings from where a setscrew had tightened into them. They was in a box of misc. parts that came from a guy that had the MSA Classic D10 that I bought.

I have changed out several copper coated rods out of steels, For Stainless Steel. They were mild steel welding rods with a copper coating, To keep them from rusting, Rusty welding rods don't make good welds.