Help! Rebuild/refresh on a 74? Shobud pro ll

[Elizabeth Long]

So looking for tuning key? Replacement and a lil advice on restoration on this project. Ive never played steel… been around em alot playing fiddle in bands… figured best way to understand it — restore one. Planning on learning it. Just need some help on…part identification lol.

[Dana Blodgett]

You could date it by the serial # stamped into the wood and end plate. It could be a ‘74.
Appears to be a D-10 Professional rack & barrel system.

[Elizabeth Long]

Ok what is the tuning peg called?

[Ken Pippus]

That’s a pull rod. On the other end there’s “barrel tuner” which is likely the source of your tuning problem. It may require adjustment to get in useable range.

[Kenny Davis]

It's a Professional and would be older than a '74. I'm thinking the pull rod is the least of her current problems!

[Ken Pippus]

Correct. Not a Pro II at all.

The bend in the rod might be straightenable, but that might not be a word!

[Tony Prior]

Its a beautiful Steel, well. not right now but it can be ! While it is a D10 Rack and Barrel System, its possible Sho Bud (or someone) stuck a PRO II sticker on it, or someone removed the Professional sticker.

Reality, the Steel needs to be torn down completely, all parts, rods, racks, key heads/tuners , both changers etc, need to be cleaned, inspected etc... Its not a hard job, it just takes time and patience.

A bit over a year ago I acquired a mid 70's PRO II, ( 2 hole pullers) it had been sitting in the case for probably 10 years. It was unplayable. After full disassembly, restoration and reassembly, it turned out to be an amazing Instrument, I believe the best sounding Sho Bud I have ever owned. I left the body as it was , with all wear and patina in tact, all I did was clear coat it lightly. The new owner loves it. Whats not to love ?

I feel the guitar in this thread, the same thing WILL occur. Take it fully apart, clean, inspect , lube etc.. replace broken or worn parts, put it back together and it will become an excellent example of a Professional / Rack/Barrel system with monster Sho Bud tone. I would also leave the body as is, let it show its history.

[Elizabeth Long]

Awesome. Yes. Taking it completely apart and deep clean and fix things. This was just at sight probs I could see. So its a d10 sho bud professional. Good to know

[Ken Pippus]

Not sure the best way to learn to drive is by rebuilding a ‘57 Chevrolet.

[Kenny Davis]

While very rough, with a lot of work (and dollars) the guitar should definitely be a keeper. Looks like the lever that's lowering the E's is bent, and someone has relocated the lever that raises the one E string. For some reason, some folks don't like how Sho~Bud canted the L-L knee.

There's a few guys on the Forum that are Sho~Bud literate and are willing to be a consultant, or actually re-build if it gets to that point for you.

[Mike DiAlesandro]

Its a beautiful Steel, well. not right now but it can be ! While it is a D10 Rack and Barrel System, its possible Sho Bud (or someone) stuck a PRO II sticker on it, or someone removed the Professional sticker.

Reality, the Steel needs to be torn down completely, all parts, rods, racks, key heads/tuners , both changers etc, need to be cleaned, inspected etc... Its not a hard job, it just takes time and patience.

A bit over a year ago I acquired a mid 70's PRO II, ( 2 hole pullers) it had been sitting in the case for probably 10 years. It was unplayable. After full disassembly, restoration and reassembly, it turned out to be an amazing Instrument, I believe the best sounding Sho Bud I have ever owned. I left the body as it was , with all wear and patina in tact, all I did was clear coat it lightly. The new owner loves it. Whats not to love ?


I feel the guitar in this thread, the same thing WILL occur. Take it fully apart, clean, inspect , lube etc.. replace broken or worn parts, put it back together and it will become an excellent example of a Professional / Rack/Barrel system with monster Sho Bud tone. I would also leave the body as is, let it show its history.

I agree 100% Tony, great guitars. A little time and patience and you will have an excellent steel.

Here is the underside of a Pro II I just finished cleaning up...

[Liam Sullins]

Not sure the best way to learn to drive is by rebuilding a ‘57 Chevrolet.

No problem with that. I did it with my Emmons while I was still learning the basics. Tore it all down, cleaned and put back together. Anyone can do it with patience.

[Jerry Erickson]

Hi Elizabeth,
If you're needing some pull rods, here's where you can get them...and other parts for your guitar.

https://www.psgparts.com/Pull-Rod-Set-C ... F-SOCK.htm

[Elizabeth Long]

How the hellfire you get whatever this thing is… bridge, tailpiece/devil out of this hole.

[Kenny Davis]

Oh my!

[Eric Dahlhoff]

That thing is called the "changer".
Use a punch to gently tap out the rod, and as each "finger" is free, pull it out the bottom.
Installation is the reverse, and slightly more difficult.
Tale pictures as you go, for reference putting it back together.

[Elizabeth Long]

Bless jesus… got it. Tapped ithe rod out of changer. . Patience kemosabe

[Elizabeth Long]

Google moogly

[Bob Muller]

Lots of potential, with some clean up it will be a great guitar again.







This is one that I cleaned up some time ago, makes a world of difference in the way it plays.

[Bob Muller]

Refinish the cabinet and it could look like this, or leave the old finish for that original look.

[Tony Prior]

Heres the PHOTO journey of the 75 PRO II which I rebuilt early last year. Maybe it will offer some insight. Keep in mind that this is a 1975 built Steel, the body ended up being cleaned and clear coated with all wear and patina left intact. I did not bring the metal parts to a hi sheen on purpose, I wanted a 1975 guitar that was 100% functional but did not want it to look like a BRAND NEW CAR !

The Professional in this thread is an awesome Steel and will be a real gem when completed.

1975 Pro II rebuild >>> viewtopic.php?t=354715&highlight=sho+bud


after refurb

[Elizabeth Long]

So i read where some have used paint thinner to clean the parts… using it straight or diluted like directions?

[Bob Muller]

I guess the question is what should an original guitar look like?
Here are 2 Sho-Buds for examples, the one on the Right is the guitar that That I cleaned up and serviced. The changer is shown in the photos above, the guitar was cleaned and re assembled to look as close to the original as possible. The guitar on the left is factory original and never been worked on, must have spent it's life in the case.









If the cabinet looks old and worn then it is a question of
how you want it to look. if it is painted or over sprayed with clear is that MORE ORIGINAL? I think it should look the way it did the day it left the factory to be original, but that is only my opinion. The LDG shown in the left side of the photo is original, The one on the right is cleaned up to look original again. Any spraying, painting, or repair beyond that is done for the pleasure of the owner.

[Eric Dahlhoff]

So i read where some have used paint thinner to clean the parts… using it straight or diluted like directions?

I like to use "Simple Green". Mix w/ hot water & let the parts soak awhile then scrub off with a toothbrush and/or a rag.

Paint thinner, naptha, carburetor cleaner etc work fine, but you gotta be outside & still breathe it.

[Tony Prior]

straight up mineral spirits.