My Lacquer Emmons Resto Phase 3

Mike Scaggs · Post by **Mike Scaggs** » 4 Jun 2017 10:49 am

Here I am at the assembly phase of ole Woody. Here are a few shots of the beginning steps. Next I will put the tuning screws in the changer and tune it out by hand and also set the tension on the lower return springs.

Dig the chrome fret boards! I think they are perfect for the lacquer guitar, looks like class to me.

Anyway, I hope I am not boring you guys with to many pictures...

Cheers,

GO PREDS!!!!

Jack Stoner · Post by **Jack Stoner** » 4 Jun 2017 11:42 am

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Johnie King · Post by **Johnie King** » 4 Jun 2017 1:29 pm

Good golly miss Mollys thats one pretty Emmons

Jeff Garden · Post by **Jeff Garden** » 4 Jun 2017 1:45 pm

OK, I'll mention it just one more time, Mike

...I LOVE that color combination. That is going to be absolutely beautiful when you get done. Two big thumbs up!

Mike Terry · Post by **Mike Terry** » 4 Jun 2017 2:41 pm

Woooo... that is really a beautiful Emmons !

Storm Rosson · Post by **Storm Rosson** » 4 Jun 2017 3:24 pm

Dammmm Mike that is a sweet lookin Emmy. And at least in my case, I really don't quite understand the term "too many pictures"eesp when talking about a psg restore or new build or repair o....well you get my drift. Superb work as always Mike...Stormy

Billy Knowles · Post by **Billy Knowles** » 4 Jun 2017 6:49 pm

That is going to be a masterpiece!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hook Moore · Post by **Hook Moore** » 5 Jun 2017 1:33 am

Billy Knowles wrote:That is going to be a masterpiece!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I agree !

Mike Scaggs · Post by **Mike Scaggs** » 5 Jun 2017 2:34 am

Billy Knowles wrote:That is going to be a masterpiece!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Pressure is on now LOL

Henry Matthews · Post by **Henry Matthews** » 5 Jun 2017 7:01 am

That is absolutely gorgeous Mike and the tone of those bolt-ons are I think the best there is. Great job and believe me, I know how much work goes into a job like that.

Mike Scaggs · Post by **Mike Scaggs** » 5 Jun 2017 8:46 am

I figured I would go ahead and wire her up now while everything is out of my way. I used Reverb cable for the input as that stuff has very good shielding.

Mike Scaggs · Post by **Mike Scaggs** » 5 Jun 2017 12:09 pm

Cross shafts in place. Knee levers next

Tony Glassman · Post by **Tony Glassman** » 5 Jun 2017 12:38 pm

FWIW - when I do a P/P rebuild, I leave pedal 1 & 2 cross-shafts out until I have all the other pedals & knee levers "rodded". Not having those 2 cross-shafts in the way makes rodding all the C6th ans E9th lowers much easier. After rodding pedals 3-8 and all KLs, I then add pedals 1&2.

john widgren · Post by **john widgren** » 5 Jun 2017 1:54 pm

Whooo-Hooo! That's sumpthin.

Mike Scaggs · Post by **Mike Scaggs** » 5 Jun 2017 1:54 pm

Tony Glassman wrote:FWIW - when I do a P/P rebuild, I leave pedal 1 & 2 cross-shafts out until I have all the other pedals & knee levers "rodded". Not having those 2 cross-shafts in the way makes rodding all the C6th ans E9th lowers much easier. After rodding pedals 3-8 and all KLs, I then add pedals 1&2.

Great tip, thanks...

Paddy Long · Post by **Paddy Long** » 5 Jun 2017 2:19 pm

Gee Mike that is looking fabulous, just love the colour of the cabinet too - and that flocking sets it off perfectly

J R Rose · Post by **J R Rose** » 5 Jun 2017 2:38 pm

Awesome Job Mike, Beautiful Guitar. Waiting to hear a sound clip, J.R.

Tony Glassman · Post by **Tony Glassman** » 5 Jun 2017 2:39 pm

Mike Scaggs wrote:
Tony Glassman wrote:FWIW - when I do a P/P rebuild, I leave pedal 1 & 2 cross-shafts out until I have all the other pedals & knee levers "rodded". Not having those 2 cross-shafts in the way makes rodding all the C6th ans E9th lowers much easier. After rodding pedals 3-8 and all KLs, I then add pedals 1&2.
Great tip, thanks...

Another shortcut is to leave the key-head end plate off until after you're done all the rodding....that really makes it quick and easy.

BTW: your resto work looks amazing.

Mike Scaggs · Post by **Mike Scaggs** » 6 Jun 2017 3:42 am

Tony Glassman wrote:
Mike Scaggs wrote:
Tony Glassman wrote:FWIW - when I do a P/P rebuild, I leave pedal 1 & 2 cross-shafts out until I have all the other pedals & knee levers "rodded". Not having those 2 cross-shafts in the way makes rodding all the C6th ans E9th lowers much easier. After rodding pedals 3-8 and all KLs, I then add pedals 1&2.
Great tip, thanks...
Another shortcut is to leave the key-head end plate off until after you're done all the rodding....that really makes it quick and easy.

BTW: your resto work looks amazing.

Ok but the only thing I would say to that is the guitar is under tension now and changer is tuned out. Taking that end plate off with the head bolt for the keyhead in place would be a bad idea. I can always loosen all the strings then pull the end plate but is all that worth it?

Herb Steiner · Post by **Herb Steiner** » 6 Jun 2017 6:56 am

Blue flocking... the piece de resistance!

Mike Scaggs · Post by **Mike Scaggs** » 6 Jun 2017 7:00 am

Herb Steiner wrote:Blue flocking... the piece de resistance!

I wanted it to be special LOL

Tony Glassman · Post by **Tony Glassman** » 6 Jun 2017 10:06 am

Mike Scaggs wrote:
Tony Glassman wrote:
Mike Scaggs wrote: Great tip, thanks...
Another shortcut is to leave the key-head end plate off until after you're done all the rodding....that really makes it quick and easy.

BTW: your resto work looks amazing.
Ok but the only thing I would say to that is the guitar is under tension now and changer is tuned out. Taking that end plate off with the head bolt for the keyhead in place would be a bad idea. I can always loosen all the strings then pull the end plate but is all that worth it?

You're right. I'd never remove the endplate with the strings tuned up to pitch. I always tune the changer by hand (with the strings at pitch) & then loosen the stings to nearly slack before removing the endplate (or some times I remove the EP before stringing the guitar). To me, anything that affords an easier set-up of the undercarrige lowers, is well worth the 5 minutes of extra time it takes to retune the open strings.

After slackening the strings and pulling the end-plate, I insert all the rods and collars through the appropriate bell cranks, then replace the EP, followed by open tuning the strings to pitch. Finally, I position & tighten the collars in the positions needed to fully actuate the pre-tuned changer. I hardly ever have to re-tweak the changer afterwards.

As a matter of fact, whenever I do a full re-stringing, I always remove all 20 strings at once (for cleaning purposes) and the push-pull changer settings always remain spot-on after restringing. I know some people advise against doing it that way, but I've been doing it that way for 40 years with out any problems

Mike Scaggs · Post by **Mike Scaggs** » 6 Jun 2017 10:09 am

Tony Glassman wrote:
Mike Scaggs wrote:
Tony Glassman wrote: Another shortcut is to leave the key-head end plate off until after you're done all the rodding....that really makes it quick and easy.

BTW: your resto work looks amazing.
Ok but the only thing I would say to that is the guitar is under tension now and changer is tuned out. Taking that end plate off with the head bolt for the keyhead in place would be a bad idea. I can always loosen all the strings then pull the end plate but is all that worth it?
You're right. I'd never remove the endplate with the strings tuned up to pitch. I always tune the changer by hand (with the strings at pitch) & then loosen the stings to nearly slack before removing the endplate (or some times I remove the EP before stringing the guitar). To me, anything that affords an easier set-up of the undercarrige lowers, is well worth the 5 minutes of extra time it takes to retune the open strings.

I place all the rods and collars through the appropriate bell cranks, then replace the EP, followed by open tuning the strings to pitch. Then, I secure the collars in the positions needed to fully actuate the pre-tuned changer. I hardly ever have to re-tweak the changer afterwards.

As a matter of fact, whenever I do a full re-stringing, I always remove all 20 strings at once (for cleaning purposes) and the push-pull changer settings always remain spot-on after restringing. I know some people advise against doing it that way, but I've been doing it that way for 40 years with out any problems

Thanks Tony,

Yeah, I can see it would help and NO i would never pull an EP off with tension on the guitar! LOL

Thanks again for the good tips. I will take all the knowledge I can get

Tony Glassman · Post by **Tony Glassman** » 6 Jun 2017 10:25 am

Mike Scaggs wrote: Thanks Tony

Yeah, I can see it would help and NO i would never pull an EP off with tension on the guitar! LOL

Thanks again for the good tips. I will take all the knowledge I can get

Judging by the work that you've done on the Emmons and Damir's Excel, you already have an incredible amount of knowledge and skill............far more than my own,

Andy DePaule · Post by **Andy DePaule** » 6 Jun 2017 11:33 am

A knock your eyes out guitar for sure....
Gonna be a stunner.

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My Lacquer Emmons Resto Phase 3

My Lacquer Emmons Resto Phase 3

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A knock your eyes out guitar for sure