Dobro sound on C6 neck
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Kevin Chriss
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Dobro sound on C6 neck
Now that I have a decent dobro sound from my Boss BE 50 and I am not using my C6 neck on gigs, I am wanting to further the dobro sound by recommisioning my C6 neck. Has any of you done this?
I've read that Melobar made a 10 string dobro. Would their tuning be a good tuning to use?
Would it be best to just leave it with the C6 tuning? Can you get a good dobro sound from C6?
So many questions. I hope you guys can help me out.
I've read that Melobar made a 10 string dobro. Would their tuning be a good tuning to use?
Would it be best to just leave it with the C6 tuning? Can you get a good dobro sound from C6?
So many questions. I hope you guys can help me out.
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HowardR
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Larry Behm
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Larry.
I borrowed DJ's Match Bro, and have been trying to match the settings with my Pod xt with mixed results. It seems to need some kind of "envelope" or "auto wah" rather than just sweeping the phase with a high thin edge and missing mids. So far I"m not finding a sound as good as the MB.
Do you use a MB, or are you synthing the Dobro sound through one of your suitcase nuke processors?

EJL
I borrowed DJ's Match Bro, and have been trying to match the settings with my Pod xt with mixed results. It seems to need some kind of "envelope" or "auto wah" rather than just sweeping the phase with a high thin edge and missing mids. So far I"m not finding a sound as good as the MB.
Do you use a MB, or are you synthing the Dobro sound through one of your suitcase nuke processors?

EJL
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Bobby Lee
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You can dedicate a pedal to get the G dobro tuning on C6th: <font face="monospace" size="3"><pre> ped
D *
E
C * -B
A
G *
E
C * ++D
A * ++B
F * ++G
C </pre></font>To play dobro parts, hold the pedal down and use the strings I've marked with an asterisk. All of the standard hammer-on licks are available.
The skip grip makes bar slants easier on the high strings, but they're still nearly impossible on the low strings.
You should take your foot off of the volume pedal and run your signal through some kind of narrow band filter to get the dobro tone.
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<font size="1"><img align=right src="http://b0b.com/Hotb0b.gif" width="96 height="96">Bobby Lee - email: quasar@b0b.com - gigs - CDs, Open Hearts
Sierra Session 12 (E9), Williams 400X (Emaj9, D6), Sierra Olympic 12 (C6add9),
Sierra Laptop 8 (E6add9), Fender Stringmaster (E13, A6),
Roland Handsonic, Line 6 Variax</font>
D *
E
C * -B
A
G *
E
C * ++D
A * ++B
F * ++G
C </pre></font>To play dobro parts, hold the pedal down and use the strings I've marked with an asterisk. All of the standard hammer-on licks are available.
The skip grip makes bar slants easier on the high strings, but they're still nearly impossible on the low strings.
You should take your foot off of the volume pedal and run your signal through some kind of narrow band filter to get the dobro tone.
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<font size="1"><img align=right src="http://b0b.com/Hotb0b.gif" width="96 height="96">Bobby Lee - email: quasar@b0b.com - gigs - CDs, Open Hearts
Sierra Session 12 (E9), Williams 400X (Emaj9, D6), Sierra Olympic 12 (C6add9),
Sierra Laptop 8 (E6add9), Fender Stringmaster (E13, A6),
Roland Handsonic, Line 6 Variax</font>
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Richard Sinkler
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I have something similar to B0B's suggestion on my guitar. I moved my regular pedal 7 to RKR. I also have my 8th pedal with some of the changes B0B mentions. So I hit RKR with pedal 8 and I have a G tuning from strings 3 through 8.
<font face="monospace" size="3"><pre>
LKL LKV LKR 4 5 6 7 8 RKL RKR
D D#
E F
C C# B D
A Bb B B
G F# F
E Eb D
C C# B
A Bb B G
F E F#
C A D D
</pre></font>
I used to have a match-Bro but sold it when I was having financial problems.
Edited to add:
I would find it difficult to use B0B's approach. I think the gaps would interfere with the fast hammer-ons and pull-offs and finger crossing over that I would use on a real Dobro, although the slants would be easier (I guess).
While we're at it, why did Goodrich make that plastic bar like a regular steel bar instead of a Stevens type bar. I found it impossible to do good pull-offs even with the back end of the bar. The Stevens (actually I use a Shubb-Pearse bar for reso) didn't sound right with the Match-Bro.<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Richard Sinkler on 07 March 2004 at 09:01 PM.]</p></FONT>
<font face="monospace" size="3"><pre>
LKL LKV LKR 4 5 6 7 8 RKL RKR
D D#
E F
C C# B D
A Bb B B
G F# F
E Eb D
C C# B
A Bb B G
F E F#
C A D D
</pre></font>
I used to have a match-Bro but sold it when I was having financial problems.
Edited to add:
I would find it difficult to use B0B's approach. I think the gaps would interfere with the fast hammer-ons and pull-offs and finger crossing over that I would use on a real Dobro, although the slants would be easier (I guess).
While we're at it, why did Goodrich make that plastic bar like a regular steel bar instead of a Stevens type bar. I found it impossible to do good pull-offs even with the back end of the bar. The Stevens (actually I use a Shubb-Pearse bar for reso) didn't sound right with the Match-Bro.<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Richard Sinkler on 07 March 2004 at 09:01 PM.]</p></FONT>
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Kevin Chriss
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Thanks so much for the info Bobby Lee. I'll definitely try it.
If I could find a Match Bro for sale I would definitely go that route. I'm sure this does not sound as good as a Match Bro. But, I just need to deceive a few folks that think your playing some kind of keyboard when your setting behind your steel.
My Boss SE 50 settings are as follows:
Rhodes algorithm (Not that Al Gore has rhythm)
Equilize
Low EQ -12dB
Mid Freq 400 HZ
Mid EQ +8dB
High EQ 0dB
LP Filter Thru
Phaser
Rate 85
Depth 10
Manual 40
Resonance 8
Super Chorus
Pre Delay 1ms
Rate 30
Depth 10
Level 100
If I could find a Match Bro for sale I would definitely go that route. I'm sure this does not sound as good as a Match Bro. But, I just need to deceive a few folks that think your playing some kind of keyboard when your setting behind your steel.

My Boss SE 50 settings are as follows:
Rhodes algorithm (Not that Al Gore has rhythm)

Equilize
Low EQ -12dB
Mid Freq 400 HZ
Mid EQ +8dB
High EQ 0dB
LP Filter Thru
Phaser
Rate 85
Depth 10
Manual 40
Resonance 8
Super Chorus
Pre Delay 1ms
Rate 30
Depth 10
Level 100
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Kevin Chriss
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Bobby Lee
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I like Richard's solution a lot. His RKR is actually the standard P7, and adding the special pedal on P8 makes the dobro tuning right in the middle of the course. The pedal also adds a low 5th - very powerful for comping rhythm parts!
When you really need the bar slants, the standard 3rd string lower to B gives you the top 3 strings of the dobro tuning with skip grips (strings 1, 3, 5). Richard's special pedal can still provide the low notes. <font face="monospace" size="3"><pre> p7 p8 RK
D *
E
C ++D -B
A ++B
G *
E --D
C -B
A --G
F
C ++D </pre></font>For fast stuff you could use p7+p8, and for the more sensitive tunes you could use p8+k.
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<font size="1"><img align=right src="http://b0b.com/Hotb0b.gif" width="96 height="96">Bobby Lee - email: quasar@b0b.com - gigs - CDs, Open Hearts
Sierra Session 12 (E9), Williams 400X (Emaj9, D6), Sierra Olympic 12 (C6add9),
Sierra Laptop 8 (E6add9), Fender Stringmaster (E13, A6),
Roland Handsonic, Line 6 Variax</font>
When you really need the bar slants, the standard 3rd string lower to B gives you the top 3 strings of the dobro tuning with skip grips (strings 1, 3, 5). Richard's special pedal can still provide the low notes. <font face="monospace" size="3"><pre> p7 p8 RK
D *
E
C ++D -B
A ++B
G *
E --D
C -B
A --G
F
C ++D </pre></font>For fast stuff you could use p7+p8, and for the more sensitive tunes you could use p8+k.
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<font size="1"><img align=right src="http://b0b.com/Hotb0b.gif" width="96 height="96">Bobby Lee - email: quasar@b0b.com - gigs - CDs, Open Hearts
Sierra Session 12 (E9), Williams 400X (Emaj9, D6), Sierra Olympic 12 (C6add9),
Sierra Laptop 8 (E6add9), Fender Stringmaster (E13, A6),
Roland Handsonic, Line 6 Variax</font>
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Kevin Chriss
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Bobby Lee
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The sound of the bar slant is different from the sound of a pedal. Maybe only steel players can hear the difference, though.
For example, I hear a huge tonal difference on Hank Williams' records between Jerry Byrd's C6th and Don Helms' E13. But for one Hank tribute show I split the difference and played both on a single neck D6th. All of the steel parts had the wrong timbre (and I was at the wrong fret positions), but the other musicians in the band couldn't tell the difference at all.
Likewise, I hear a huge difference between pedals and bar slants. Maybe the audience and even the other musicians don't.
If you use appropriate electronics and don't do obvious pedal licks, you can probably sound dobro-ish enough on any tuning to satisfy your audience. But if you want to play real dobro parts, you will need to shift your tuning to G and use bar slants now and then. Is it worth the trouble? That's up to you.
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<font size="1"><img align=right src="http://b0b.com/Hotb0b.gif" width="96 height="96">Bobby Lee - email: quasar@b0b.com - gigs - CDs, Open Hearts
Sierra Session 12 (E9), Williams 400X (Emaj9, D6), Sierra Olympic 12 (C6add9),
Sierra Laptop 8 (E6add9), Fender Stringmaster (E13, A6),
Roland Handsonic, Line 6 Variax</font>
For example, I hear a huge tonal difference on Hank Williams' records between Jerry Byrd's C6th and Don Helms' E13. But for one Hank tribute show I split the difference and played both on a single neck D6th. All of the steel parts had the wrong timbre (and I was at the wrong fret positions), but the other musicians in the band couldn't tell the difference at all.
Likewise, I hear a huge difference between pedals and bar slants. Maybe the audience and even the other musicians don't.
If you use appropriate electronics and don't do obvious pedal licks, you can probably sound dobro-ish enough on any tuning to satisfy your audience. But if you want to play real dobro parts, you will need to shift your tuning to G and use bar slants now and then. Is it worth the trouble? That's up to you.
------------------
<font size="1"><img align=right src="http://b0b.com/Hotb0b.gif" width="96 height="96">Bobby Lee - email: quasar@b0b.com - gigs - CDs, Open Hearts
Sierra Session 12 (E9), Williams 400X (Emaj9, D6), Sierra Olympic 12 (C6add9),
Sierra Laptop 8 (E6add9), Fender Stringmaster (E13, A6),
Roland Handsonic, Line 6 Variax</font>
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Erv Niehaus
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I use a "Super-Bro" along with the plastic bar that came with it. It sounds authentic enought to me that I sure wouldn't tote around an additional instrument. It has a true bypass so it can stay clamped to the guitar leg all the time. The Super-Bro doesn't have the "match-bro" components so I use the match-bro also. To get a more authentic dobro sound, I like to turn off all effects.
Erv<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Erv Niehaus on 08 March 2004 at 01:11 PM.]</p></FONT>
Erv<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Erv Niehaus on 08 March 2004 at 01:11 PM.]</p></FONT>
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Kevin Chriss
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Richard Sinkler
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Kevin, If you look at my pedal 7, it takes the top G down to F to give me a 7th. It also gives me an augmented by using string 1. When I use this "Dobro" pedal (#8), I remove my foot from the volume pedal and use it on pedal 8. Pedal 7 is raised higher than pedal 8 (and 6) so it's easy to activate with these pedals. I had to raise P7 because when my right foot is on 8 while hitting RKR, my ankle wouldn't bend enough to activate 7 if they were the same height.
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Kevin Chriss
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Richard Sinkler
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B0B had a good idea about placing the "DOBRO"
pedal next to pedal 7. This would keep knee levers out of the equation. My Carter is pretty light and I had 5 (2 C6 and 3 E9)pulls on RKR that was stiff but the guitar didn't walk. I don't know that the Excel is lighter than a Carter. I did move 2 of the E9 changes to a pedal but only partly because of stiffness.
pedal next to pedal 7. This would keep knee levers out of the equation. My Carter is pretty light and I had 5 (2 C6 and 3 E9)pulls on RKR that was stiff but the guitar didn't walk. I don't know that the Excel is lighter than a Carter. I did move 2 of the E9 changes to a pedal but only partly because of stiffness.
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Kevin Chriss
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I now have Bobby and Richard's combination setup on my C6 neck. Trying to hold down both pedals at the same time was causing my foot to cramp. So, I added another bell crank, bought a pull clamp from Graingers. Then connected them with a 1/8" round rod and a spring buffer. This modification allows me to hold the 8th pedal down with the pull clamp. The only permanent alterations to my steel is just 2 small holes in the aluminium bracing.
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