E Lock for MSA

John Roche · Post by **John Roche** » 2 Feb 2016 4:16 am

I read somewhere that MSA make an e lock for the Legend uni but I can't find anymore information on it..anyone know ?

chris ivey · Post by **chris ivey** » 2 Feb 2016 11:15 am

have you tried asking the msa company?

Malcolm McMaster · Post by **Malcolm McMaster** » 2 Feb 2016 2:18 pm

John, like Chris says talk to Kyle,that's your best bet.If he can help I can bring it back from Dallas show if that helps.

John Roche · Post by **John Roche** » 2 Feb 2016 3:29 pm

Thanks Chris and Malclom will do. Thanks Malcolm for your offer,I'll let you know ???

Archie Nicol R.I.P. · Post by **Archie Nicol R.I.P.** » 2 Feb 2016 4:37 pm

Whistles innocently...An E lock, you say? Dallas, you say?

Arch.

Malcolm McMaster · Post by **Malcolm McMaster** » 2 Feb 2016 11:22 pm

Come on Archie, get your wallet out and get to Dallas, you know you want to.

Rick Campbell · Post by **Rick Campbell** » 3 Feb 2016 8:52 am

What's an E lock?

RC

Lane Gray · Post by **Lane Gray** » 3 Feb 2016 9:22 am

Some folks with universal tunings don't wish to hold the lever that lowers the Es, so they put a flip-lock to hold the Es down

Henry Matthews · Post by **Henry Matthews** » 3 Feb 2016 9:24 am

Rick, it locks out E to keep us fiddle players from having to play in E. Hoping they will come up with an F lock and a Bb lock,

Just kidding Rick, I'm assuming it's to lock the E lower's so you can sorta play some C6th sounds.

John Roche · Post by **John Roche** » 3 Feb 2016 9:25 am

RC, it holds the E's that drops down to Eb on a uni 12,allowing you not to hold it with your knee.

Les Cargill · Post by **Les Cargill** » 3 Feb 2016 6:03 pm

I did this on a shoestring budget.

I used a shoestring.

Richard Sinkler · Post by **Richard Sinkler** » 3 Feb 2016 6:16 pm

Les Cargill wrote:I did this on a shoestring budget.

I used a shoestring.

Did your shoes fall off?

Larry Robertson · Post by **Larry Robertson** » 3 Feb 2016 9:13 pm

John, I made one myself for less than $5.00. I took a couple of pics. It only works if your guitar lowers the E's on RKR, but it's cheap & easy to install. You can adjust the hook with the 2 locknuts. Also, install some rubber strips on the side of the angle iron to prevent scratching the chrome and also give some friction to hold it in place. Larry R

Damir Besic · Post by **Damir Besic** » 3 Feb 2016 10:27 pm

Rick Campbell wrote:What's an E lock?

RC

E lock on Remington E9ext

steve takacs · Post by **steve takacs** » 4 Feb 2016 4:01 am

Larry,

That would be economical for sure.

Do you have any shots of that metal bar that shows how it is attached under your steel. Is the bar just wedged into the back and front of the underside of the guitar? I'm having a trouble figuring out how it attaches.

I wouldn't mind adding one to a steel I have. Guess the only problem would be when you want the lever unlocked each time, would you have to turn the twist the hook a number of times rather than use a a quick release system such as is found on a Kline or one Paul Redmond has made for my Kline which had none?

Thanks, stevet

Rick Campbell · Post by **Rick Campbell** » 4 Feb 2016 7:11 am

Henry Matthews wrote:Rick, it locks out E to keep us fiddle players from having to play in E. Hoping they will come up with an F lock and a Bb lock,

Just kidding Rick, I'm assuming it's to lock the E lower's so you can sorta play some C6th sounds.

I like E, F and Bb, but I think I was locked out of F#, Ab, and C# at birth. LOL Those keys on fiddle are just so limiting. On steel, I don't care either way cause I'm usually about a half fret sharp or flat anyway. LOL Thanks for the explanations. I honestly had no idea what you guys were talking about.

RC

Les Cargill · Post by **Les Cargill** » 4 Feb 2016 5:48 pm

Richard Sinkler wrote:
Les Cargill wrote:I did this on a shoestring budget.

I used a shoestring.
Did your shoes fall off?

I'm just not sure. Let me check.

(15 minutes later)

Nope.

Darvin Willhoite · Post by **Darvin Willhoite** » 4 Feb 2016 7:39 pm

I've made a few for MSA Classics that looked like this.

Rick Campbell · Post by **Rick Campbell** » 4 Feb 2016 8:04 pm

Darvin,

That's a good looking piece of machinery no matter what it does.

RC

Bobby D. Jones · Post by **Bobby D. Jones** » 4 Feb 2016 10:03 pm

Thanks for some great ideas on this post. I have moved from an MSA S10 4X4 to a GFI S12 U 7X4 about 2 months ago. Had to change D&F knee levers to my right knee from my left, Both Day set up. I now am ready to start piddling around, On the B6 side. I want to lock the E to D# lower so I can get serious. I don't want to set for hours holding the RK R in. Between a piece of dowel rod wrapped with felt and a shoe string would be one. Or the angle bar and adjustable L bolt, Now which one. If I want to use it all the time, One of the neat machined jobs would be better. Thanks for the ideas.

Mike Perlowin RIP · Post by **Mike Perlowin RIP** » 4 Feb 2016 11:04 pm

Larry Robertson wrote: It only works if your guitar lowers the E's on RKR,

Why won't it work if the E lowers are on the on the LKR?

John Roche · Post by **John Roche** » 5 Feb 2016 1:56 am

I like Darvin idea...MSA have only made one ever..

Darvin Willhoite · Post by **Darvin Willhoite** » 5 Feb 2016 4:40 am

What I'm trying to show in the last picture is the added bellcrank that the lock lever pulls. It's the bellcrank between the knee lever and the reversing bellcrank, and is on the KL shaft that lowers the E's, in my case the RKR. When you flip the lever, it activates the pulls just like the knee lever. I mounted the lever under the LH end of the guitar where there was more room. It worked well, and it doesn't matter which lever lowers your E's.

Larry Robertson · Post by **Larry Robertson** » 9 Feb 2016 9:32 pm

To Answer SteveT and Mike P. The bar is held in place by the tension of the lever wanting to return to neutral. All one has to do to install the lock is to move the lever to the activated position (full right) and slide the tool into position. The tension on the lever holds it in place. The hook should be adjusted so that when the lever is full right the bar is touching the outside of the legs. To remove: Apply a slight pressure to the lever going right and the bar falls right off. I have enclosed another picture of it installed on one of my steels so you can maybe get a better idea. Mike, I guess that a person could make it work on a LKR if you installed a hook long enough to reach that lever, but my guess is that it would be more in the way than a help. Also, I suppose it could be used to hold a LKL in the activated position, but I have never heard of using the LKL to drop the E's and maybe someone would want to lock the LKL for another purpose. Hope this helps clarify what my device does.

John Roche · Post by **John Roche** » 10 Feb 2016 6:29 am

Very much alike. http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopi ... light=lock

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