Tuning for dobro with same interval as C6?
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Jim Williams
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Tuning for dobro with same interval as C6?
This could be a dumb question, I'm trying to work out a good tuning for a dobro with the same intervals as C6, since I'm used to playing my steel in that. I've strung and tried the dobro in actual C6, but just didn't like the sound of that too much. I'm thinking something a little lower with the same intervals would be better. Doing a little transposing I came up with a six string tuning (lo to hi) of : A C# E F# A C# . Would this be A6th? I don't have my dobro handy to try this, but is this a standard tuning and has anyone tried it? Would I be able to play the material I've learned in C6 directly in this tuning, at just a lower key? Thanks. Also, would it be ok to tune the regular strings like this or would I need a different set of strings. The maximum raise of pitch or lower of pitch seems to be no more than 2 steps...G to A, B to C#, etc. Thanks.
GFI SM10 3/4, 1937 Gibson EH-150, 2 - Rondo SX Lap Steels and a Guyatone 6 String C6. Peavey 400 and a Roland 40 Amps. Behringer Reverb Pedal.
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Ray Langley
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Yes it is A6. It is the same as C6, tuned two steps lower. You will need a new set of strings. I have a "regular" guitar strung with A6th strings while waiting for my SX2 to arrive. With the fatter strings you also get better tone.
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Ray Langley
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Stephen Cowell
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L. Bogue Sandberg
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The A6 tuning you mention is the first 6th type tuning I used when I broke away from straight G dobro. My string gages were:
C# - .017
A - .020
F# - .028w
E - .032w
C# - .038w
A - .050w
It sounded pretty good, but I ended up going to G6 with a D on top to be closer to what I was used to. Then a 7 string in G6, then an 8 string in G13. That's what happens when you start experimenting. Starting from scratch, A6 or A13 might be a better choice. See this old thread started by Guy Cundell:
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopi ... 5c90858781
C# - .017
A - .020
F# - .028w
E - .032w
C# - .038w
A - .050w
It sounded pretty good, but I ended up going to G6 with a D on top to be closer to what I was used to. Then a 7 string in G6, then an 8 string in G13. That's what happens when you start experimenting. Starting from scratch, A6 or A13 might be a better choice. See this old thread started by Guy Cundell:
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopi ... 5c90858781
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Jim Williams
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Thanks for the comments. I mostly play and practice on the lap steel in C6, but go to a lot of jams where they don't like electrics, so I thought of stringing the dobro up in a more familiar tuning. This way I could get some practice comping and doing background stuff. At some point I want to try and get a small group together with a mix of electric and acoustic instruments to play old country stuff and some western swing. By the my resonator is a solid square neck, so I'm unlikely to hurt it, but I would like to keep a suitable amount of pressure on the other parts to get the best sound.
GFI SM10 3/4, 1937 Gibson EH-150, 2 - Rondo SX Lap Steels and a Guyatone 6 String C6. Peavey 400 and a Roland 40 Amps. Behringer Reverb Pedal.
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Ray Langley
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Righto Stephen! Three frets lower.
Bluesman's Epitath: "Didn't get up this morning"!
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Like John Rosett, I have a 6 string dobro tuned to G6: D-B-G-E-D-B. It is easily retuned to Bb6: D-Bb-G-F-D-Bb, one step below std C6. If I'm looking at a C6 arrangement I just play it two frets higher than tabbed. Alan Akaka and John Ely do some nice C6 arrangements in the HSGA quarterly, and once in a while they'll use open strings for some otherwise impossible voicings. I need to get a capo for the 2nd fret. Poor man's C6 dobro!
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