Wound 6th string

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James Klotz
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Wound 6th string

Post by James Klotz »

Hi Guys. Recently got my 1st steel, and am learning. Forgive me if this is a very basic question. I didn't see anything about it from a quick search.

I just got my ZumSteel Stage One. In the booklet that came with the guitar, it says "when changing strings, a wound .022 is highly recommended for string 6. It helps the overall sound and playability of the guitar". I noticed, however, that most steel string packs come with an unwound 6th string of lighter gauges. I assume that is just something particular to a stage one? If I go to an unwound lighter gauge, will I have to do anything to the setup of the guitar beyond standard tuning? If I stay with the recommended string, can somebody recommend strings without having to go the individual route? I'm trying to keep it as simple as possible to get started.

Thanks,

James
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Jon Light (deceased)
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Post by Jon Light (deceased) »

You will have to retune the B pedal if you change to the unwound string. In your situation, I would consider the specific recommendation to be a big asset---here you have the steel maker actually putting some thought and consideration into this. That's good enough for me.
I buy all singles so it's no problem but I understand your wanting to keep things simple. I'm looking around to see if I can find a commercial set with a wound .022. I'll post if I can find one.
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Post by Peter Freiberger »

SIT makes Carter Starter sets in nickel or stainless with a 22w. 12,15,14,17,22w,26w,30w,34w,36w.
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Lane Gray
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Post by Lane Gray »

The wound sounds better. Unless you lower 6 to F#, it's not rough on pedal/lever travel.
If you switch to plain, you'll get thinner tone and the B pedal will travel way too far. He chose the wound for better tone.
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Larry Bell
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Post by Larry Bell »

If you don't lower the 6th string to F# it is the best string choice out there. Those of us who are addicted to lowering G# to F# (e.g., either that change alone or with the Franklin pedal which lowers 5,6, and 10 a whole tone) can't usually pull it off without going to a plain string.

Interesting point: the amount of throw needed to raise or lower a string a given interval is inversely proportional to the diameter of the string, if it's plain, or the core of the string if wound. What this means is the larger the diameter the further it pulls with 1" of throw, for example. That wound string has a .008" or so core (little more than a THIRD the diameter of a .022plain) and it takes a LOT of throw to pull even a half step. BUT it sounds GREAT and tunes great. That 022 or 020 plain string is like a rubber band. It's the string many of us love to hate. I have heard a few tales about an all pull guitar that would lower a wound sixth a whole tone but none of mine have been able to do it. And I TRIED.

Lloyd Green and other notable players use wound 6th strings.
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Lane Gray
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Post by Lane Gray »

Larry, I got my Zum to do it. I had to use the fastest combination of pulls on 6 and the slowest on 3. I also had to increase lever throw.
The best test is to pop the string on there, then either pull with a rod, or push with a screwdriver, and see if the raise finger gets in the act before the string hits F#. You might need to ditch a helper spring. I think my MSA does it as well
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Larry Bell
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Post by Larry Bell »

Mine would too and I've done it on a Fessy as well -- just barely -- but the lever moved too far to be useful. Might have worked on a pedal but the Franklin pedal needs to be able to activate and deactivate quickly. That long throw really gets in the way.

Since I also raise it a full step, it's just not in the cards for me, even on a pedal. It sure sounds better with the wound 6th
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Georg Sørtun
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Post by Georg Sørtun »

Use wound 6th on all my PSGs.

Image Image

If/when I can not get hold of stainless Jagwire Lloyd Green Artist Series sets, I order nickel wound Live Steel Strings sets with same gauges. They are pretty much interchangeable for tone, and pretty close on throw, on my steels.
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Mark van Allen
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Post by Mark van Allen »

What Larry said.
Some of my guitars have been a little less forgiving of a plain 6th, but most of them play and sound fine. I REALLY like the whole step lower, wouldn't want to do without it.
Stop by the Steel Store at: www.markvanallen.com
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richard burton
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Post by richard burton »

I use a wound sixth on all my steels, because of the far better tuning stability than a plain sixth can manage.

If I have a steel that won't drop a wound sixth a full tone, I find a way to do it, sometimes using the spare raise capacity to facilitate more changer finger movement, although that method is a bit complicated.
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Post by James Klotz »

Thanks guys, I appreciate all the replies. I'm starting to see why a lot of you guys just get individual strings instead of sets. Seems a lot more complicated that the 6 string world I come from, where you get a set of .09's or .010's and be done with it.
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Post by David Nugent »

Ernie Ball E-9 sets come with a wound '22' however, you may need to replace the supplied 3rd string ('10')for an '11'.
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Post by James Klotz »

David Nugent wrote:Ernie Ball E-9 sets come with a wound '22' however, you may need to replace the supplied 3rd string ('10')for an '11'.
Thanks David. That's as close as I've seen to what the manufacturer recommends. The difference would be the .010 needs to be .011 and the .018 should be a .017.

Would replacing a .017 with an .018 (for the 5th string) require any additional setup beyond tuning? I suppose I could just order those and get some additional .011's. Sounds as simple as this is going to get.
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Jerry Overstreet
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Post by Jerry Overstreet »

You can check with Doug Earnest at Stage One Steel Guitars. He should be able to supply you with correct string sets, or at least point you to a source.

Probably be best to stay with their string recommendations.
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Larry Bell
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Post by Larry Bell »

As Georg mentions above, Sid Hudson and crew @ Live Steel Strings will customize sets to your specs. Great strings. On my U12 guitars I use 012 on the 3rd and 018 on the 5th. They are among the highest quality string out there.

If you use 001 larger it will require slightly less travel.
(Larger the string - shorter the throw)
Just use the tuning nut. Should require no further adjustment.
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Jon Light (deceased)
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Post by Jon Light (deceased) »

I'm not understanding why Peter's response is being ignored. I thought it was the answer to your question/need.
.
.

http://www.juststrings.com/sitstringspe ... arter.html


First I'd do as Jerry suggested and ask Doug what he thinks about this.
.
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Jerry Overstreet
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Post by Jerry Overstreet »

I wondered the same thing Jon. Perhaps because Peter omitted the 3rd. string .011 in his list that should be between the .015 and .014, it might be confusing.
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Post by Larry Bressington »

Scotty's Set's come with a wound 6th also.
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Post by Donny Hinson »

James Klotz wrote:Thanks guys, I appreciate all the replies. I'm starting to see why a lot of you guys just get individual strings instead of sets. Seems a lot more complicated that the 6 string world I come from, where you get a set of .09's or .010's and be done with it.
Buying 10 individual strings is usually more expensive that buying a full set and one single. Just throw away the one you're don't need, and you're still money ahead. ;-)
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Post by Stuart Legg »

If you're at a local music Store they are usually glad to swap strings with you, They usually don't mind. If they do buy the strings somewhere else.
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Lane Gray
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Post by Lane Gray »

And both Jagwire and Live Steel don't charge more for custom gauges.
And, IIRC, Live Steel saves your order.
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects