I sat down to practice last night with great enthusiasm (maybe too much). Trying to make sure my A/F combination was in tune, I solidly forced the LKL against the stop, when BOING! The little plastic connector that joins the lever with the pull rod split down the middle lengthwise and let go of the rod.
My guitar rendered pretty much useless by a tiny little plastic piece. On the other hand, it has worked fine for 35 years!
I have a nice metal replacement piece on order and in the meantime I am trying to play alternate things, but it really points out just how critical the F-lever is.
Mike
MSA Classic 5+4
Too many 6-strings and amps to list
The F lever is critical only if you're stymied by any other way of finding that triad.
Sure, it's necessary to easily play what we're used to, but great music was made without any knee levers... we simply moved the bar. And you'll develop a seamlessly smooth way of changing string grips while moving the bar up the neck.
Doing a reverse slant on strings 8 and 5 yields a wonderfully "discordant," organic sound that I enjoy more than the knee levered note, for example.
By all means, get the lever fixed, but see this as an opportunity to discover the way master players did it in the past. You'll grow as a player in confidence and experience.
My rig: Infinity and Telonics.
Son, we live in a world with walls, and those walls have to be guarded by men with steel guitars. Who's gonna do it? You? You, Lt. Weinberg?
Maybe move the stop closer to the knee lever in the chain.
I mean, If the stop is between the actual lever and the first plastic connector,
there will be knee pressure on the stop, but not on the connector,
which should only deal with string pressure.
If however, the stop is past the second connector, and you apply extra knee pressure,
it will also put knee pressure on both plastic connectors.
This will happen if the stop is mounted close to the cross bar mechanics.
I hope this is clear.
Thanks for the tip about James. My inclination is to replace the connector with a metal one to avoid any future problems. Or am I going to ruin the resale value by straying from original parts?
Mike
MSA Classic 5+4
Too many 6-strings and amps to list
Michael Hummel wrote: My inclination is to replace the connector with a metal one to avoid any future problems. Or am I going to ruin the resale value by straying from original parts?
No, replacing junk plastic mechanicals with quality metal ones will never hurt value. Of course, if you replace plastic with pot metal, then you still have just junk.
Sacrificing reliability with looks or even miracle tone is a poor trade-off. A guitar that breaks, or is more likely to break, puts you at a real disadvantage, since so few of us carry more than one guitar to a gig.
FWIW I ended up getting these to replace all the plastic ones on my Pro II. They seem to have a bit less slop than the quick disconnect pedal rod connectors and they are relatively inexpensive. Obviously choose the 10-32 x 10-32 version assuming that the old ones were also 10-32. If they're 8-32 then Aircraft Spruce won't help, methinks.
Had a chance to look at the guitar. The stop is after the rod, at the point where the rod pulls another lever. I can't see a good spot to put the stop. Hopefully replacing the ball joint with a metal unit will avoid any more breakages.
I'll bet good money that modern guitars have followed your suggestion to stop the lever instead of something "downwind".
Mike
MSA Classic 5+4
Too many 6-strings and amps to list
I am expecting a Canada Post delivery any minute with the metal connector I ordered from Steel Guitar Canada. Hopefully I'll have enough time to install it and get the guitar working before band rehearsal tonight. Otherwise I'll just have to stick to 6-string and piano...8-(
Mike
MSA Classic 5+4
Too many 6-strings and amps to list
Michael, email me direct and give me your address. I have the black delrin plastic couplers in stock. And yes, The new plastic will last another 35 years--you want more reliability than that? Yes, pedal rod connectors WILL work but are ugly and cumbersome and not ment for THIS job(ask Shot, if he were still with us).
No, Small Parts.com have not sold these for several years--they are obsolete, and no, auto parts stores do not carry them. Neither do hobby stores. I tried all of the above. There are some that are "kinda-sorta", but not the real deal. I even went to the original factory who made them, and if I wanted to order 10 ka-zillion, they would make some.
But great news--- I am now in concert with a company who has included a small order with their other plastics orders(pulled rank to git 'er done), So I am THE source on this and other shobud replacement parts. They can be bought from me for a small price(email me) and the black plastic coupler has a new steel ball---they sell as a set.
"Good judgement comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement"~old cowboy proverb.
shobud@windstream.net
Thrilled to say that James and Teresa were great to deal with, and got my replacement connector(s) out in the mail very quickly, at a fair price. (The USPS and Canada Post took their sweet time in getting them to me, but that is not James' fault!)
My guitar is still at the band rehearsal spot, but I will be installing the replacement connector this weekend.
I highly recommend dealing with James if you need any replacement/enhancement parts for your Shobud.
Mike
MSA Classic 5+4
Too many 6-strings and amps to list
Yes, pedal rod connectors WILL work but are ugly and cumbersome and not ment for THIS job(ask Shot, if he were still with us).
