S12 universal 8+5 standard copedent
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Mario Forte
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S12 universal 8+5 standard copedent
Hi i just got an S12 universal MSA Vintage XL and looking for a pretty standard copedent setup for my new purchase...can anybody help me? Thanks
mario66chef@yahoo.it
mario66chef@yahoo.it
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Douglas Schuch
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Mario,
I see this is your first post. Welcome to the Forum!
There is a bunch of information about these tunings here on the forum, just do some searches. I'd start with searching "U12" and "U-12" and that should turn up most of them. Note that when you click on "Search" (top right quadrant of the screen) you get the Forum search engine, but you can also then look to the left side and click to get a Google search. I'd try both, results might vary.
Recent discussions on the copeds associated with U-12's are:
Lane's Bb6th Universal:
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=227309
And Karen Sarkisian's questions:
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=227226
But there are plenty more. Lane's might be interesting, but not very applicable to your guitar, if it is a typical U-12 with E9/B6. Lane's is a variation of this, 1/2 step lower in tuning, and in Bb6 with no pedals: he uses a knee lever to raise the strings to bring it to an E9 (well, 1/2 step lower, so Eb9): same idea, backwards? haha. And a 1/2 step lower.
So, if you have a standard U-12 tuning, you are in E/9 with no pedals and levers, and lowering your E's (typically either Left Knee Right [LKR] or Right Knee one direction or the other...). You also may have a means of locking that lever in the lowered position for B6: some like this, some don't. Some guitars have it and some don't.
With this tuning, you should be able to play any E9 music you want using the standard Tab, except you do not have the 9 string: you either will raise the 10, or lower the 8 to get that note. Most U-12's work this way.
As for copeds, I think different manufacturers tended to have variations in their "recommended" U-12 copeds (Carter's was based on Jeff Newman's ideas, Sierra had theirs...don't know about old MSA's). You can see many different ones by doing this: far top right is links. On link page, in the nav bar, is a button for "copedents". Once there, they are sorted by tuning, so scroll down to the "Universal E9/B6 section". Check Maurice Anderson's first: he is Mr. MSA, so yours may match his. If not, check the others. You will see how they are the same, how they differ.
Most have pedals 1,2 and 3 the same, and the same as an E9 standard setup. Order may be reversed, though.
Beyond this, I'd say if you want further information, ask more specific questions in the thread. But, do the searches first: some will not answer if you ask a question that gets asked every 3 months! Others will politely give you the links...but do your searches, and you get your answer yourself, right away!
Also, welcome to the U-12 world of Pedal Steel. I am a newbie, but now have a U-12 I am learning on.
Good luck,
Doug
[edited to hide my stupidity as much as possible]
I see this is your first post. Welcome to the Forum!
There is a bunch of information about these tunings here on the forum, just do some searches. I'd start with searching "U12" and "U-12" and that should turn up most of them. Note that when you click on "Search" (top right quadrant of the screen) you get the Forum search engine, but you can also then look to the left side and click to get a Google search. I'd try both, results might vary.
Recent discussions on the copeds associated with U-12's are:
Lane's Bb6th Universal:
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=227309
And Karen Sarkisian's questions:
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=227226
But there are plenty more. Lane's might be interesting, but not very applicable to your guitar, if it is a typical U-12 with E9/B6. Lane's is a variation of this, 1/2 step lower in tuning, and in Bb6 with no pedals: he uses a knee lever to raise the strings to bring it to an E9 (well, 1/2 step lower, so Eb9): same idea, backwards? haha. And a 1/2 step lower.
So, if you have a standard U-12 tuning, you are in E/9 with no pedals and levers, and lowering your E's (typically either Left Knee Right [LKR] or Right Knee one direction or the other...). You also may have a means of locking that lever in the lowered position for B6: some like this, some don't. Some guitars have it and some don't.
With this tuning, you should be able to play any E9 music you want using the standard Tab, except you do not have the 9 string: you either will raise the 10, or lower the 8 to get that note. Most U-12's work this way.
As for copeds, I think different manufacturers tended to have variations in their "recommended" U-12 copeds (Carter's was based on Jeff Newman's ideas, Sierra had theirs...don't know about old MSA's). You can see many different ones by doing this: far top right is links. On link page, in the nav bar, is a button for "copedents". Once there, they are sorted by tuning, so scroll down to the "Universal E9/B6 section". Check Maurice Anderson's first: he is Mr. MSA, so yours may match his. If not, check the others. You will see how they are the same, how they differ.
Most have pedals 1,2 and 3 the same, and the same as an E9 standard setup. Order may be reversed, though.
Beyond this, I'd say if you want further information, ask more specific questions in the thread. But, do the searches first: some will not answer if you ask a question that gets asked every 3 months! Others will politely give you the links...but do your searches, and you get your answer yourself, right away!
Also, welcome to the U-12 world of Pedal Steel. I am a newbie, but now have a U-12 I am learning on.
Good luck,
Doug
[edited to hide my stupidity as much as possible]
Last edited by Douglas Schuch on 22 Jun 2012 1:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Lane Gray
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One correction, Doug.
Bb6. The "#" indicates sharp, "b" means flat.
While the Bb6 is certainly "the road less traveled," I like it. Especially with the two changes on one lever in the variant I got from John Alexander.
Since I'd imagine you're distant from steel guitar resources, I'd urge the E9/B6 tuning, as E9th instructional materials work directly with no translation or editing needed. I'd probably say that the Alexander half-stop should NOT be part of your original setup. The pedal steel is frustrating enough without making your thigh hold a lever against a spring.
Is the Vintage XL a triple raise or double?
Most important, what's already on it?
Does it work?
Rerodding a guitar is a bitch. Let's figure out what your guitar does, and only change it if it's goofy.
EDIT: Rerodding a complex guitar is a bear.
Bb6. The "#" indicates sharp, "b" means flat.
While the Bb6 is certainly "the road less traveled," I like it. Especially with the two changes on one lever in the variant I got from John Alexander.
Since I'd imagine you're distant from steel guitar resources, I'd urge the E9/B6 tuning, as E9th instructional materials work directly with no translation or editing needed. I'd probably say that the Alexander half-stop should NOT be part of your original setup. The pedal steel is frustrating enough without making your thigh hold a lever against a spring.
Is the Vintage XL a triple raise or double?
Most important, what's already on it?
Does it work?
Rerodding a guitar is a bitch. Let's figure out what your guitar does, and only change it if it's goofy.
EDIT: Rerodding a complex guitar is a bear.
Last edited by Lane Gray on 22 Jun 2012 12:42 am, edited 1 time in total.
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
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More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Douglas Schuch
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Lane Gray
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I'm curious about why P8 moved to P4.
I'm less curious about why the old P4 disappeared: I never found much use for it til I heard Tom Morell use it in the early Time Warp Tophands CDs before he went back to lap steel exclusively.
I'm less curious about why the old P4 disappeared: I never found much use for it til I heard Tom Morell use it in the early Time Warp Tophands CDs before he went back to lap steel exclusively.
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Ken Metcalf
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Its a Jeff Newman thing..
With my foot rocking back and forth over pedals 4-5 I can get 1 and 4 minor chords with out having to use two feet and also pedal 6-7 together gives nice Aug. with one foot.
A sort of home base with my foot over 5-6... pedal 6 of course making a 4 chord and 5 making a 7th back 2 frets
Diminished with pedals 5-6 down.
With my foot rocking back and forth over pedals 4-5 I can get 1 and 4 minor chords with out having to use two feet and also pedal 6-7 together gives nice Aug. with one foot.
A sort of home base with my foot over 5-6... pedal 6 of course making a 4 chord and 5 making a 7th back 2 frets
Diminished with pedals 5-6 down.
MSA 12 String E9th/B6th Universal.
Little Walter PF-89.
Bunch of stomp boxes
Little Walter PF-89.
Bunch of stomp boxes
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Lane Gray
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Personally, I'm a believer in putting P5 on a lever, that way the 5&7 combo doesn't require double-footing.
I plan to arrange a cluster on my guitar to allow that.
Bruce built my D-10 Zum that way
I plan to arrange a cluster on my guitar to allow that.
Bruce built my D-10 Zum that way
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
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More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Ken Metcalf
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There is always the B pedal for a 7th in B6th with Es lowered.
I tend to keep my LKR folded up out of the way..and am there for short a lever.
Thinking I should do something else with the vert.
Maybe pull strings 1-2 to a one chord or drop string 3 to a G.. some other Moonie style.. or ..
Any ideas for the vert??
I tend to keep my LKR folded up out of the way..and am there for short a lever.
Thinking I should do something else with the vert.
Maybe pull strings 1-2 to a one chord or drop string 3 to a G.. some other Moonie style.. or ..
Any ideas for the vert??
MSA 12 String E9th/B6th Universal.
Little Walter PF-89.
Bunch of stomp boxes
Little Walter PF-89.
Bunch of stomp boxes
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Lane Gray
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If you ask me, I think you got a pretty good setup. I'd drop 6 to F#, myself. Which has some appropriate applications when I get in a Mooney mood. When I want to get my Moon on, my first step is to think Don Rich Tele. (Thinking Flacke/Lee/Mason Tele doesn't take you to Mooney, But Don and Merle help)
Were it my guitar, I'd set it to B6, with the resting note D#, and put RKL taking 4&8 to F with a half-stop at E.
Then I'd think of moving the Bb lever to LKL, P5 to RKR, reassign the now empty P5 to raise 12 to C# and 8 to E, and put your RKR on LKR (so that you can have E and D at the same time)
I'm finding it easy to hold that lever on the half stop, as long as I remember to. And it frees up a lever since you have D#, E and E#/F on the same knee
Were it my guitar, I'd set it to B6, with the resting note D#, and put RKL taking 4&8 to F with a half-stop at E.
Then I'd think of moving the Bb lever to LKL, P5 to RKR, reassign the now empty P5 to raise 12 to C# and 8 to E, and put your RKR on LKR (so that you can have E and D at the same time)
I'm finding it easy to hold that lever on the half stop, as long as I remember to. And it frees up a lever since you have D#, E and E#/F on the same knee
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
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More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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John Alexander
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On the Bb6 have you tried using LKL + RKR with P5 as an alternative to P5 + P7? The voicing is only slightly different - I actually prefer it a little bit. I think Maurice may have dropped traditional P7 from his Bb6 setup, and I would guess that the availability of those notes via RKR and LKL is what makes that possible.Lane Gray wrote:Personally, I'm a believer in putting P5 on a lever, that way the 5&7 combo doesn't require double-footing.
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Lane Gray
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I see the same notes, but I like that squeeze of the 6 to the maj7. I'm seeing the possibility of either (standard C6 numbers here) P4 or P7 being removed as redundant, but I don't wanna drop them both. I might drop one, though.
To quote brother Sinkler, it's not so much the note, but how you get it.
To quote brother Sinkler, it's not so much the note, but how you get it.
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Richard Sinkler
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Hey, that Sinkler guy actually says something that makes sense, well, once in a while.To quote brother Sinkler, it's not so much the note, but how you get it.
Lane, the practice of moving C6 P8 into the P4 slot is fairly common and has been around for many years. I forget who I first saw do it, but my D10's have always been set up that way since the late 70's. Back in those days, it was customary for every C6th player to play "Hold It". It's much easier to play it with P8 and P5 next to each other (of course, you beat that dilemma but putting P5 on a lever). That way, you didn't have to jump quickly from P5 to P8, or 2 foot it. I have both P7 and P8 on levers. No hopping around or 2 footing for me.
Carter D10 8p/7k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup, Regal RD40 Dobro (D tuning), Recording King Professional Dobro (G tuning), NV400, NV112, Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open G slide and regular G tuning guitar) .
Playing for 56 years and still counting.
Playing for 56 years and still counting.
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John Alexander
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Me too - but I'm too hooked on the combination of P5 with other KLs to want to move it upstairs just to avoid using the right foot for that. The RKR/LKL combo has its own squeeze and other uses that I wouldn't want to lose with P5, plus the P5 combines with LKL to get a big Gb7+ chord that doesn't seem to be available anywhere in the standard C6 changes (Remember the post a few days ago about how to get an augmented chord on a standard C6? It practically required the use of a microscope to find them.) There are also some other KL combinations with P5.Lane Gray wrote:I see the same notes, but I like that squeeze of the 6 to the maj7.
Very true. Sinkler's Theorem sums up my whole reason for playing the PSG.Lane Gray wrote:To quote brother Sinkler, it's not so much the note, but how you get it.
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Earnest Bovine
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P5 means the pedal that pulls 4 strings, including low C up to D, right? Isn't that too much work for a knee lever? And thus isn't it better suited for a pedal?
A good candidate for re-locating from pedal to knee lever is the pedal that pulls the E strings. And an opposing knee lever can pull the E string the other way.
It seems to me that the most-used pull on P5 is the middle G down to F#. You could put that on a knee lever, and it would be easy to push. Better yet, pull the G down to F on that knee lever, with a half stop at F#.
A good candidate for re-locating from pedal to knee lever is the pedal that pulls the E strings. And an opposing knee lever can pull the E string the other way.
It seems to me that the most-used pull on P5 is the middle G down to F#. You could put that on a knee lever, and it would be easy to push. Better yet, pull the G down to F on that knee lever, with a half stop at F#.
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Lane Gray
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Actually, it's a fairly easy lever. At least on a Zum. Of course, it's an LKL, so with the transverse link, it might have some gear-down effect. And I only have 3 pulls: raise 9 and 10, and lower 5. I raise 1 with the boowah.
I have no problem holding that lever, for I use it with a pedal that takes 3 and 7 to C#.
And I know what you mean about the middle G drop being the most used part of P5. Notice on Reece's setup, the 7th string (F, the analog of the G) lower is the only change on LKR (whole step with half-stop)
I have no problem holding that lever, for I use it with a pedal that takes 3 and 7 to C#.
And I know what you mean about the middle G drop being the most used part of P5. Notice on Reece's setup, the 7th string (F, the analog of the G) lower is the only change on LKR (whole step with half-stop)
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Ken Metcalf
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John Alexander
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Lane Gray
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Ken Metcalf
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Tony Glassman
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I agree. I put it on the lever that lowers my E9th 2nd and 9th strings so I can use it with pedals 6 & 7.Earnest Bovine wrote:.......
It seems to me that the most-used pull on P5 is the middle G down to F#. You could put that on a knee lever, and it would be easy to push. Better yet, pull the G down to F on that knee lever, with a half stop at F#.
As far as moving pedal 8 to the 4 position; I like using pedals 4&5 together too much to do that. The same goes for 7&8. I played "Hold It" enough times in the '80's to get comfortable with jumping between 5 and 8.
On the other hand I never got comfortable pedaling with two feet, so the G-->F# KL is a must.
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John Alexander
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Rick Abbott
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Mario, what help are you looking for? Have you been playing standard E9 or C6? Jeff Newman's E9/B6 is just fine for a place to start. MSA Universal must be just as good, maybe better for some things. Can't go wrong with either, depends on the style of music you play.
RICK ABBOTT
Sho~Bud D-10 Professional #7962
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Sho~Bud D-10 Professional #7962
Remington T-8, Sehy #112
1975 Peavey Pacer 1963 Gibson Falcon
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Ken Metcalf
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But it does and gives me a 4 chord to boot.John Alexander wrote:Even odder to lower E to D# on String 8 with RKL and then lower it to D# again on Pedal 6 and expect it to drop to D as a result.Ken Metcalf wrote: Odd to lower an E and then Raise it back up to E.. BUT
MSA 12 String E9th/B6th Universal.
Little Walter PF-89.
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Little Walter PF-89.
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Lane Gray
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