How many of you have the G# - F# lower by itself?
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Dickie Whitley
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How many of you have the G# - F# lower by itself?
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Last edited by Dickie Whitley on 30 May 2013 5:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Richard Sinkler
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Me. RKR. Of course, there are 2 changes on that lever for my C6th neck.
Carter D10 8p/7k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup, Regal RD40 Dobro (D tuning), Recording King Professional Dobro (G tuning), NV400, NV112, Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open G slide and regular G tuning guitar) .
Playing for 55 years and still counting.
Playing for 55 years and still counting.
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Bent Romnes
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Dickie,
I have mine on RKL
I have mine on RKL
BenRom Pedal Steel Guitars
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Jonathan Cullifer
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Bo Borland
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Stu Schulman
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I have it on my old Blanton on the LKR. 
Steeltronics Z-pickup,Desert Rose S-10 4+5,Desert Rose Keyless S-10 3+5... Mullen G2 S-10 3+5,Telonics 206 pickups,Telonics volume pedal.,Blanton SD -10,Emmons GS_10...Zirctone bar,Bill Groner Bar...any amp that isn't broken.Steel Seat.Com seats...Licking paint chips off of Chinese Toys since 1952.
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Brett Lanier
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Jonathan, could you explain how your B pedal pulls the E note(sixth string) up to F#? I assume you have some extra rods?? I've never heard of this type of split... Btw I have the G# to F# pull on RL along with string 1 and 2 raises. I'd really like those changes separate though, especially when raising string 2.
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Hans Holzherr
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On RKR, the lever that also raises 1 to G# and 2 to E.
Brett, the G# to F# change DOES sometimes interfere with the 2nd string raise, doesn't it? I am referring to the case in which the second string is lowered to D and should remain so when the 6th string is lowered, too. It just occurred to me that the conflict can probably be avoided by making the 2nd string lower override the raise by adding a raise pull rod to the bellcrank that lowers the second string. Then, the 2nd string raise on my RKR lever would have no effect since the raise finger would already be engaged by the other lever, although the result of the combined raise and lower on that other lever by itself would still be a half-tone lower...
Hans
Brett, the G# to F# change DOES sometimes interfere with the 2nd string raise, doesn't it? I am referring to the case in which the second string is lowered to D and should remain so when the 6th string is lowered, too. It just occurred to me that the conflict can probably be avoided by making the 2nd string lower override the raise by adding a raise pull rod to the bellcrank that lowers the second string. Then, the 2nd string raise on my RKR lever would have no effect since the raise finger would already be engaged by the other lever, although the result of the combined raise and lower on that other lever by itself would still be a half-tone lower...
Hans
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Dan Beller-McKenna
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Brett Lanier
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Ray Kedge
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G# to F# change
I have it on my RKL it's part of a split Franklin pedal change with the Bs lowered on pedal 4.This allows me to just use the G# lower on it's own or in conjuction with the Bs lowered.
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Darvin Willhoite
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I have two RKL's and have this change on the back one. I also have a half stop at G.
Darvin Willhoite
MSA Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro, Reese's restored Universal Direction guitar, a restored MSA Classic SS, several amps, new and old, and a Kemper Powerhead that I am really liking. Also a Zum D10, a Mullen RP, and a restored Rose S10, named the "Blue Bird". Also, I have acquired and restored the plexiglass D10 MSA Classic that was built as a demo in the early '70s. I also have a '74 lacquer P/P, with wood necks, and a showroom condition Sho-Bud Super Pro.
MSA Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro, Reese's restored Universal Direction guitar, a restored MSA Classic SS, several amps, new and old, and a Kemper Powerhead that I am really liking. Also a Zum D10, a Mullen RP, and a restored Rose S10, named the "Blue Bird". Also, I have acquired and restored the plexiglass D10 MSA Classic that was built as a demo in the early '70s. I also have a '74 lacquer P/P, with wood necks, and a showroom condition Sho-Bud Super Pro.
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Jonathan Cullifer
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Adair Torres
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On my Derby, My Emmons and My Zum...
On RKR, the lever that also raises 1 to G# and 2 to E.
There are 2 changes on that lever for my C6th necks.
On RKR, the lever that also raises 1 to G# and 2 to E.
There are 2 changes on that lever for my C6th necks.
Adair Torres - Boss at TowerS Steel Guitars
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Zum D10 8X7 Wineberry 2010.
Emmons SD10 3X8 Black 1994.
Derby D10 8X8 Rosewood 2008.
TowerS SD10 3X5 Imbuia Mica Finish 2018
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Richard Sinkler
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As a lot of players do, I ordered my Carter with the 1st string G#, 2nd string E and 6th string to F# change on the same lever, my RKR. But I also have my C6th pedal 7 (string 3 to D, string 4 to B) on the same lever. It was a little too hard for me, so I got rid of my B to Bb lever and moved the 1st and 2nd string raises to my 2nd LKL. This would eliminate the problem listed above about using the 2nd string with the 6th string lower.
Brett, the G# to F# change DOES sometimes interfere with the 2nd string raise, doesn't it? I am referring to the case in which the second string is lowered to D and should remain so when the 6th string is lowered, too.
Carter D10 8p/7k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup, Regal RD40 Dobro (D tuning), Recording King Professional Dobro (G tuning), NV400, NV112, Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open G slide and regular G tuning guitar) .
Playing for 55 years and still counting.
Playing for 55 years and still counting.
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John Billings
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'74 ShoBud S-10, 3&6. Work done by Ricky;
Nickle E9th----P1----P 2-----P 3-----LKL1----LKL2----LKV-----LKR-----RKL-----RKR
.013p-- F#-------------------------------------------------------G/G#
.015p---D#--------------------------------------------------------E-------D
.012p---G#----------- A
.014p---E---------------------F#-------F-------------------------------------------Eb
.018p---B------C#------------C#------------------------Bb/A
.022p---G#------------A-------------------------F#
.026w-- F#-------------------------------------------------------G/G#
.030w---E------------------------------F--------------------------------------------Eb
.034w---D------------------------------------------------------------------C#
.038w---B------C#---------------------------------------Bb/A
Nickle E9th----P1----P 2-----P 3-----LKL1----LKL2----LKV-----LKR-----RKL-----RKR
.013p-- F#-------------------------------------------------------G/G#
.015p---D#--------------------------------------------------------E-------D
.012p---G#----------- A
.014p---E---------------------F#-------F-------------------------------------------Eb
.018p---B------C#------------C#------------------------Bb/A
.022p---G#------------A-------------------------F#
.026w-- F#-------------------------------------------------------G/G#
.030w---E------------------------------F--------------------------------------------Eb
.034w---D------------------------------------------------------------------C#
.038w---B------C#---------------------------------------Bb/A
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Billy Wilson
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Butch Pytko
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Dickie,
I have thought of doing just that for some time. I have the 6th G# to F#, 2nd Eb to E, 1st F# to G#, & 3rd C to B on C6th, on my RKR. RKR is pulling 4 strings & what I've noticed for quite a while is the 6th string is the most out-of-tune of all the strings being pulled. I've known of players splitting-off the G# to F# & putting it on a separate knee lever. I would position it as a staggered knee lever. The reasoning behind it would be the string stays more in tune, hopefully, if it is isolated by itself. But, I've had a sort-of inner conflict about whether to utilize an extra single knee lever for one pull. All this time I've been kind-of living with the most out-of-tune issue with the 6th string, because it seems only occasionally that I can detect an out-of-tune problem by ear. However, because of the ultra sensitivity of the electronic tuner, it does show the most out-of-tune state of the 6th string.
I have thought of doing just that for some time. I have the 6th G# to F#, 2nd Eb to E, 1st F# to G#, & 3rd C to B on C6th, on my RKR. RKR is pulling 4 strings & what I've noticed for quite a while is the 6th string is the most out-of-tune of all the strings being pulled. I've known of players splitting-off the G# to F# & putting it on a separate knee lever. I would position it as a staggered knee lever. The reasoning behind it would be the string stays more in tune, hopefully, if it is isolated by itself. But, I've had a sort-of inner conflict about whether to utilize an extra single knee lever for one pull. All this time I've been kind-of living with the most out-of-tune issue with the 6th string, because it seems only occasionally that I can detect an out-of-tune problem by ear. However, because of the ultra sensitivity of the electronic tuner, it does show the most out-of-tune state of the 6th string.
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John Billings
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Paddy Long
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I have it separately on my LKL-front staggered knee, with a split G... it also raises string 1 to G. I also have it on the standard Franklin pedal.
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08'Zumsteel Hybrid D10 9+9
94' Franklin Stereo D10 9+8
Telonics, Peterson, Steelers Choice, Tone-X, Benado, Lexicon, Red Dirt Cases.