Lubricants for Steel Guitars

[Pat Comeau]

Brian, right, who are we to argue with a builder like Paul Franklin Sr.? He must have been doing something right, considering the level of guitar he puts out.

If I am not mistaken, Al Brisco, a very experienced player/re-builder uses and recommends #30 motor oil and to use it quite liberally. There sure are different ways to skin this cat

I use 3-1 oil and like Al Brisco i pour oil in the changer and nut roller and let it drip underneath the changer then put and old rag or something under the guitar for the dripping and this work like a charme, if you want your changer and nut rooler to look shinny all the time use tri-flow or something like it cause if you use oil it'll make your aluminum dull but...it lubricates better then the rest i've tried. JMO .

PS= if it's good enough for Franklin Sr and Al Brisco it's sure is good for me.

[Mickey Adams]

Dave, the real problem here is that the individual that has the guitar knows nothing about PSGs...They went to the manufacturers website, and saw how much a new one costs, and decided what it was worth. They will not be able to answer any questions...(they didn't know how many pedals and levers were on it, much less...what they did)
A lot of good ideas i must say...One rather worries me though...Soaking the entire changer and letting it drip out the bottom?....This I would think would be a prime example of OVER lubrication....And I dont mean to offend...but...this seems to me that this is how the changer becomes a dirt magnet. And 20 years later...its going to have to be cleaned out. Ive seen numerous guitars overlubed that spent years set up, with no cover on them...I will NEVER do this again...I cover my guitar on the breaks with a quality D2F...
Gun cleaner has become my first method of removing buildup...Works great...Spray it in...the crap drips out the bottom...Im sure its MEK, or thinner based, naptha...etc. It strips all the contaminants off...Then of course I soak the metal parts in lacquer thinner for about 20 minutes before beginning the sonic cleaning...This probably sounds like overkill to some of you.?>..Right???...

[Chris Dorch]

The only experience I have in cleaning a steel was when I tore down my 74 MSA before I sold it. I don't know exactly how many people owned her before me, but it was so bad that without any tension, some of the fingers wouldn't even move.

I personally use turbine engine oil on my guns and on my steel (tho I haven't needed to yet since she's new). It has performed flawlessly (on my guns at least) for the past 12 years or so.

Regarding the "other" topic about being informed about the sellers lack if knowledge and issues, this can go both ways. First, someone could try to discredit the seller in order to sabotage the sale. Second, the seller could interpret good intent for malice and call a foul. While I don't have any answers, one needs to tread lightly on this type of "sensitive" subject.

In my opinion, I think Mickey has garnered enough respect from most of us (if not all), that if he were to privately approach me with concerns, I would weigh them carefully. If it were "Joe Blow," perhaps not.

[Jack Ritter]

I flush with Ronson Lighter Fluid which is really naptha, and just put a catch rag to get the drippings. Cleans very well and dries clean and then I sparingly apply the lube. Be sure and use it in a well ventilated area. Jack

[Greg Cutshaw]

YMMV, but my steel was pretty good when new but after only two years some of the pedals began to hang up a bit. I Tri-Flo'd the whole thing and it was just incredible how smooth and easy it played, WAY better than new.

Tri-Flo/teflon is so slippery that it may outperform the lubricant used on your brand new guitar or your brand new guitar may be inadequately lubricated. As an experiment, just Tri-Flo one pedal's power transmission components from the changer to the foot pedal on the rack and see if you can tell the difference.

Greg

[Kevin Hatton]

Good suggestion Greg. One squirt of Tri-Flow where ever metal meets metal like on the pedals makes a huge cumulative effect on the playability of a guitar.

[Bob Ripperden]

Jack has the answer, lighter fluid is used to clean piano parts when the keys are sticking down or slow to rise back up. After cleaning, a drop of special oil is used that does not build up any residue. You can get the oil at a piano parts store. Sorry I don’t know the name of the oil, it’s been a long while since I was tuning pianos.
Bob

[Bent Romnes]

I'll do some experimenting. What I'll do is go out to the airport and see if I can get a quart of the Exxon oil that Mickey uses. Then I will try some Tri-Flo if I can get hold of it in Canada.
Seems like there is a toss-up between the two.

[Jim Smith]

Since before the Dekley days, I have always used light weight motor oil that came in the Zoom-Spout Oiler. Rather than buy a new one when it ran low, I'd just pour some motor oil into the bottle.

That's all we used at Dekley and all I've used ever since. I thought I had a unique product in the Zoom-Spout Oiler until I saw Carter selling the exact same oiler in their booth at one of the steel shows.

[Mickey Adams]

This is great info, all of you!..Thanks for sharing!

[John Billings]

The problem with any oil that stays fluid is that it will hold any dust it comes in contact with. The dry Teflon lubes will not. And dust will cause wear, as it can be quite abrasive. The first guitar I worked on when I went to work for a manufacturer, was a guitar that had been returned as unplayable. Evidently the owner used something like motor oil, and when that got contaminated with dust and grime, graphite was applied. The oil, plus the graphite and dust froze that thing up! Had to install new fingers because the old ones had been destroyed! Dry Teflon lube is the best, lasts the longest, and doesn't hold particulate matter. The only way to go, IMHO.

[Bent Romnes]

John, you mentioned graphite. You say it froze the joints. Is this because graphite was applied to an already oiled joint without cleaning the oil off first?
I don't quite get it because I have toyed with the idea to try graphite on my changer.Why? because it is a super lubricant for lubing locks.Locks are exposed to the weather all the time and the graphite does the trick in letting the lock rotate freely and also preserves the mechanism.

[George Crickmore]

Singer sewing machine oil is very very good.

[John Billings]

Bent,
You are correct. It was added to the oil, and dust. Made a gooey, black mess.

[Bent Romnes]

Thanks John. Ok so graphite is one that I will try as well then.

[John Billings]

Bent,
Give it a shot. But I still think the Teflon stuff is the best. Really slickery! Lasts a long time too.

[Bent Romnes]

Ok, so Teflon too.

[John Billings]

Yeah Bent. Tri-Flo is available at most bike shops and at gun shops. There are other products like it, I'm sure. It's just the one that I use. It goes on wet, but the carrier fluid is volatile. It evaporates quickly, leaving behind the dry Teflon. I think it would be a much better choice than graphite. But, experiment, that's how we learn! I'm looking forward to your next guitar!
JB

[Bobby D. Jones]

Found TRI-Flow lube source. Went to the Fairmont Wal-Mart today. Needed some SLIME to put in my wheel barrow tire, keeps going flat. Went to the bike dept. Right beside the SLIME set a 2oz container of TRI-FLOW oil. 4.39 and state tax they let me leave the store with it. Wal-Marts ski number for it is 003206321010 Hope this will help someone. GOOD LUCK

[Bent Romnes]

John, I'll be making maybe 3 new changers before too long, I've almost got the mill going!

One will get the Triflo(if I can get it here) or some other Teflon based lube. #2 will get the exxon synthetic oil a la Mickey and the third will get the graphite. In the meantime, I'll leave the ATF in old Red - he's used to that.

[Tommy Shown]

I use Rem-Oil, gun oil. I don't use WD-40, it attracts dust that can gum up the mechanism. Rem-Oil has got Tefflon in it. That makes the action smooth and cuts down on friction. When I was police officer, the range instructor cautioned us about using WD-40, gumming up the primer on the round making the round useless.
Tommy Shown

[Johnny Baker]

IF I MAY MAKE A SUGGESTION ON THIS SUBJECT. I AM
A PROFESSIONAL LOCKSMITH AND I WOULD LIKE TO RECOMMEND A COUPLE OF LUBRICANTS, THAT WE USE.

1) TRI-FLOW: A PETORLEUM AND PTFE BASED PENETRATOR,
LUBICATOR, AND LOOSENER. I HAVE ACUTALLY USED IT OT
CLEAN SOME NASTY PARTS. I HAVE NEVER FOUND IT TO
GUM UP LOCKS, PINS, AND PARTS ASSOCIATED WITH THE
LOCKSMITH INDUSTRY. IT ALWAYS DISSAPATES AND LEAVES
VERY THING PTFE COATING THAT REDUCES FRICTION.

2) LAB LUBE: A GRAPHITE FEELING SUBSTANCE THAT LOOKS
AND ACTS LIKE GRAPHITE BUT WITH OUT IT'S DRAWBACKS.

DO NOT USE THE FOLLOWING:

GRAPHITE: CONTRAY TO POPULAR BELIEF IS NOT WELL SUITED FOR ALL CLIMATES. IF YOUR CLIMATE IS HUMID, I WOULD SUGGEST YOU STAY AWAY FROM IT. IF YOU CLIMATE IS DRY, WELL THAT YOUR CHOICE.

WD40: IS A NO GO OR ANY OF THE OTHER ASSORTED ONES
SIMILAR TO IT, LIKE PB BLASTER, ETC. BAD TO ATTRACT
DIRT, DUST, AND MOISTURE.

3 IN 1: IS ANOTHER AS IT GUNK UP YOUR PARTS AND
ATTRACK DUST PARTICALS.

HOME DEPOT IS NOW COMING OUT WITH SOME STUFF THAT IS
BASED ON SOY, I DON'T KNOW MUCH ABOUT IT, MAY BE WORTH LOOKING AT AND EXPERIMENTING WITH.

[Bent Romnes]

Thanks Johnny. I think we can take his advice to the bank. He has the experience.

Mickey, I went out to the airport and got a quart of Mobil Jet turbine oil. They didn't have any Exxon left. I hope this stuff's the same as the stuff you recommended. The mechanic claimed it is. Darn stuff cost me $20 CAN

I also got some Triflo, actually WAY more expensive than the jet oil, at 7.95 for 2 oz.
I also got a strong degreaser.
As the opportunities arise, I will experiment with these 2 lubes plus my ATF and let you know my findings.

[Dave Magram]

I must respectfully disagree with the suggestion to use DRY teflon lube.

I had a disastrous experience with a "dry" teflon lube I purchased at a bike shop.
The "dry" teflon I purchased had some sort of wax or paraffin in it to keep the Teflon from coming off. (It was not TriFlow, but I suspect that TriFlow "dry" lube also has paraffin.)
This "dry" Teflon lube is probably great for bicycle chains, but is dreadful for a steel guitar.
The wax jammed the roller nuts and the changer, preventing the strings from returning to pitch, something that had never happened before.
(BTW, the label said nothing about wax or paraffin as an ingredient in the "dry" teflon lube.)

When I removed the roller nut axle to clean it, numerous tiny chunks of black wax fell off.
Once I cleaned out the wax in the roller nuts and the changer, and went back to Super Oil, all of the tuning problems disappeared.

I will never use "dry" teflon lube on my steel guitar again for anything. Ever.

- Dave

[John Billings]

"TRI-FLOW® SUPERIOR
DRY LUBRICANT

Tri-Flow® Superior Dry Lubricant is an elite formula created for dry and dusty conditions. The drip bottle application, with a convenient straw, allows for deep penetration in hard to reach moving parts. Featuring paraffin wax and high-grade petroleum oil to allow the lube to go on wet, but then set up in a dry, 'wax-like' film so it will not attract or absorb grit and grime. Perfect for dry, dirty, dusty conditions, while still providing adequate wet weather performance. Holds up to extreme pressures and resists water wash-off. Provides incredible efficiency without attracting an excessive amount of contaminants."

Good gosh Dave! How much, and how often did you use it? Sounds like you really overdid it. I played my Kline out 5/6 days a week, and only lubed it once a year. Because it doesn't attract dust and grime, one uses it sparingly, and very seldom. It's the "grit and grime" that bollixes things up, and that's what any product that stays liquid attracts and hangs on to.