Changing String - All or One at the Time
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Anders Eriksson
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Changing String - All or One at the Time
Hello,
I'm a beginner Pedal Steel Player and I have not changed my strings on my new Fessenden D-10 yet!
I'm wondering should I remove all strings and then put on the new ones OR should I remove one string and put on the new one directly?
I don't understand what will happen if I remove all strings. There's a lot of springs a things on this Guitar....
Better Safe than Sorry!
// Anders
I'm a beginner Pedal Steel Player and I have not changed my strings on my new Fessenden D-10 yet!
I'm wondering should I remove all strings and then put on the new ones OR should I remove one string and put on the new one directly?
I don't understand what will happen if I remove all strings. There's a lot of springs a things on this Guitar....
Better Safe than Sorry!
// Anders
Fessenden D-10, Stage One S-10, Peavey Nashville 112, Boss LMB-3, Goodrich 120; Regal RD-38VS Resonator
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CrowBear Schmitt
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chris ivey
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i don't think anything will come loose if you do all strings at once...and then it's easier to clean the inside of the keyhead. but i usually undo like 3 stings at a time, replace with new strings and bring up to pitch using the relationship of the strings that are still on there in tune. just makes it a little easier to tune up by doin a few at a time.
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Tony Prior
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Best to remove all the strings, check the entire bridge for burrs, fix them, polish the bridges then if you have a roller nut, remove it, take it apart, clean it, lube it, clean the guitar then put the strings on.
tp
tp
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Roger Francis
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b0b
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If you do them one at a time, the tension on the body remains constant and it's easier to get the new strings all in tune as you put them on.
I alternate. If the guitar is looking grubby I'll take off all the strings and do a cleaning. If I did that last time, chances are I'll just change them one-by-one this time.
I alternate. If the guitar is looking grubby I'll take off all the strings and do a cleaning. If I did that last time, chances are I'll just change them one-by-one this time.
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David Nugent
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fessenden
Anders...Normally, either method is acceptable but on a Fessenden guitar I would recommend changing strings one at a time. The Fessenden guitars have open ended bellcranks, the pull rods being held in place in the slots by the tension of the strings pulling forward on the fingers. When this tension is released, the resulting slack may cause the pullrod to be dislodged from its bellcrank slot. Since most pedals and knees effect more than one string, the tension from the other string(s)helps stabilize the cross shaft and may prevent this from occuring. It is advisable however to check the underside of your guitar after restringing to be certain.
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Tom Campbell
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Anders
What David Nugent said should be taken into consideration. If the bell cranks are open ended, and there is potential for a rod to slip out of its slot, it WILL at some point. If you don't have your setup (copedent) written down, you will not know what slot the rod was originall in. Removing all the strings at the same time compounds the problem. Also, leave the nut rollers alone for the time being...if it's a new guitar it should not have to be delt with for awhile...and be careful with the "oil". Steel guitars are a low friction machine and don't require large amonts of lubricants.
What David Nugent said should be taken into consideration. If the bell cranks are open ended, and there is potential for a rod to slip out of its slot, it WILL at some point. If you don't have your setup (copedent) written down, you will not know what slot the rod was originall in. Removing all the strings at the same time compounds the problem. Also, leave the nut rollers alone for the time being...if it's a new guitar it should not have to be delt with for awhile...and be careful with the "oil". Steel guitars are a low friction machine and don't require large amonts of lubricants.
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Donny Hinson
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b0b
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The rods can also slip out of the bell crank slots on a Sierra. It's best to have your rodding chart handy just in case.
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John Billings
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If I had a guitar that would fall apart when taking strings off, not only would I make a record of the holes and slots, I think I'd take a permanent marker, and make a little dot on the bellcranks and at the changer also. You might break a string somewhere, and not have your records with you.
When giggin with my Kline, I changed strings every 3 to 4 weeks. In that time I'd go through 3 or 4 3rd and 4th strings. They wouldn't break, but when you had to tune them every night, it was just a matter of time until they would. I always use an old Fender "String Stretcher" to seat the strings. That cuts that hour of playing to 5 minutes at the most! Just run it up and down the string 8 or 10 times whilst activating any pedals or levers associated with that string

When giggin with my Kline, I changed strings every 3 to 4 weeks. In that time I'd go through 3 or 4 3rd and 4th strings. They wouldn't break, but when you had to tune them every night, it was just a matter of time until they would. I always use an old Fender "String Stretcher" to seat the strings. That cuts that hour of playing to 5 minutes at the most! Just run it up and down the string 8 or 10 times whilst activating any pedals or levers associated with that string

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b0b
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John,
On the Sierra, it can only happen when all of the strings affected by a given pedal or knee lever are removed. A rod can't fall out when only one string is removed. Another change keeps the crossbar in position.
Also, this is only a problem when a pull has a lot of slack compared to the other pulls on the same pedal/lever. I played a Sierra for about 10 years before I messed up the pedal timing bad enough to cause it to happen.
On the Sierra, it can only happen when all of the strings affected by a given pedal or knee lever are removed. A rod can't fall out when only one string is removed. Another change keeps the crossbar in position.
Also, this is only a problem when a pull has a lot of slack compared to the other pulls on the same pedal/lever. I played a Sierra for about 10 years before I messed up the pedal timing bad enough to cause it to happen.
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John Billings
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Terry Sneed
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strings
Well, that's a new one on me. I been playin for over 30 years, and that's the first time I've heard of a string stretcher.I always use an old Fender "String Stretcher" to seat the strings. That cuts that hour of playing to 5 minutes at the most! Just run it up and down the string 8 or 10 times whilst activating any pedals or levers associated with that string
Hey John, that ain't like the ole "pipe stretcher"
is it? I worked on a pipeline crew for a few years back in the 70s, the company hired a new guy and one of the older fellows told the new guy to go look in the back of the truck where all our tools are, and bring me the pipe stretcher. That poor guy looked for that "pipe Strechter" for 30 minutes till finally they told him there wadn't no such thing.
terry
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John Billings
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Terry,
I've had my Fender string stretcher for 30 years! It's a great tool, and I can't imagine tuning my steels without using it. Guys that wait and wait for their strings to "settle in" are wasting a lot of time. I don't think Fender makes them anymore, but here's a cool tool that's a winder, string cutter, and string stretcher.
http://www.elderly.com/accessories/items/DP0002.htm
I've had my Fender string stretcher for 30 years! It's a great tool, and I can't imagine tuning my steels without using it. Guys that wait and wait for their strings to "settle in" are wasting a lot of time. I don't think Fender makes them anymore, but here's a cool tool that's a winder, string cutter, and string stretcher.
http://www.elderly.com/accessories/items/DP0002.htm
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John Billings
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Terry,
I have an older Planet Waves model, but seldom use it. I play my Kline most often, and it's keyless, and you don't have to cut the extra string off. You just wiggle it a few times at the screw that fastens them, and they snap right off. Even the big old 68 string. So,,, the Fender is all I really need. But more guys should find out about these things. Maybe I should start a thread about them?
I have an older Planet Waves model, but seldom use it. I play my Kline most often, and it's keyless, and you don't have to cut the extra string off. You just wiggle it a few times at the screw that fastens them, and they snap right off. Even the big old 68 string. So,,, the Fender is all I really need. But more guys should find out about these things. Maybe I should start a thread about them?
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John Billings
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Terry Sneed
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string winder/stretcher/cutter
I got one orderd John, I'll post a thread here on Pedal Steel after I get it, and give it a grade
terry
terry
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John Billings
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