2 lap steels into a single input amp.
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Paul DiMaggio
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2 lap steels into a single input amp.
As I wait patiently for my new Allen Melbert 8 string to arrive,I have been contemplating building a stand to accommodate both the A-M and my Morrell 6 string.I only have a single input on my amp but would like to have both guitars plugged in at the same time.Does anyone know of a device that would work without compromising the tone or volume of either guitar? It would help if it didn't cost an arm and a leg also.
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Keith Cordell
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John Billings
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Paul DiMaggio
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John Billings
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Blake Wilson
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This'll work:
http://guitars.musiciansfriend.com/prod ... sku=150757
One of the foot switches broke on mine after a couple months. I emailed Morley and they sent a new switch right away, free of cost.
Blake
http://guitars.musiciansfriend.com/prod ... sku=150757
One of the foot switches broke on mine after a couple months. I emailed Morley and they sent a new switch right away, free of cost.
Blake
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John Billings
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Keith Cordell
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Before you go with an A/B/Y instead of an A/B, keep in mind that you can easily turn on both guitars, or turn them off, inadvertently with the Y function added. With an A/B switch you get one side or the other, failproof. Morley's pedal tends to pop when you step on it; Radial makes a good one, or you can go the route I did and get a DOD switch for about $10 on Ebay- and mine is dead quiet.
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Paul DiMaggio
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Alan Brookes
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Harry Dietrich
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John Bechtel
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Harry; That's the quickest and probably the cheapest way to go! (Under $3) I also use the Y-plug to give my old Fender V~T Pedal 2-Outputs to 2-Amps.!
<marquee> Go~Daddy~Go, (No), Go, It's your Break Time</marquee> L8R, jb
My T-10 Remington Steelmaster
My T-10 Remington Steelmaster
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Ulric Utsi-Åhlin
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Keith Cordell
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Peter Jacobs
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I built one using this schematic (but the easier route, as Keith said, is to find one on eBay):
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/diagrams/ab-dod.gif
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/diagrams/ab-dod.gif
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George Keoki Lake
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The splitter HARRY has shown (above) is almost identical to the one I occasionally use, with two differences...mine has two 'roller' volume controls ... one for each input. In other words, one guitar can be set louder (or quieter) than the other. I'm not sure if this item is still available.
It works great !
It works great !
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Keith Cordell
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Paul DiMaggio
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I talked to one of our local metal type players,who has a dizzying array of electronic gadgetry and asked about the Y splitter and he said he has never used one like Harry showed but he has used one made from cables.He said that he lost some volume from both guitars when he used it the way I want to. Now, volume to him and volume to me are really 2 different things.
Anyone else notice anything like that?
Anyone else notice anything like that?
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John Billings
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Use a switch. Just a simple "Y" chord might cause some signal degradation through "loading" I would think. But, I'm not sure, and even if it does, you might not mind it. Double-neck pedal guitars and non-pedal guitars use switches.
The steel manufacturer that I worked for, used a three position switch. And in the middle position, with both necks turned on, there was a very significant change in tone. Much thinner, loss of low-end.
But, ya can try a "Y" cord, or a splitter like Harry's. It's a cheap experiment.
The steel manufacturer that I worked for, used a three position switch. And in the middle position, with both necks turned on, there was a very significant change in tone. Much thinner, loss of low-end.
But, ya can try a "Y" cord, or a splitter like Harry's. It's a cheap experiment.
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Alan Brookes
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The cheapest way is to pull one plug out and plug the other in. In my den, where I record, I used to have all sorts of switchgear, so that I could switch any input into any output through any processor. It got so complex that I needed a spiral binder to keep notes on the setup. Ultimately I got fed up of the whole thing, got a Dymo labeller, and wrapped labels around the plug leads saying where the lead came from or went to. Now I just plug them in as necessary. Cheap and effective, and a lot less confusing. 
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George Keoki Lake
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Well Keith, being a total computer illiterate, I haven't a clue as to how to post a pic on the Forum. Suffice to say, the splitter I have is identical to Harry's. Just picture in your mind two slots in line with the inputs, and the vol controls are there. If you have a computer mouse with a 'wheel' on it, very similar.
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John Billings
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I think these simple signal splitters are not often used because of loss of "tone." I've been looking on the net, and most of what I've found out about "signal loading" has been in reference to stompbox effects not being true bypass..
Again, I worked for a steel manufacturing company. I did most of the assembly, including the wiring. But I'm no tech. We used a three position ,0n-on-0n switch for the neck selectors on double-necked guitars. This is the same situation as yours. One switch position gave one neck, the opposite switch position gave the other neck. The position in the middle gave both necks on. So,,,, With the E9th neck on, it sounded "normal. With the switch positioned to turn on the C6th neck, that neck sounded "normal. But,,, with the switch in the middle,"both necks on" position, the tone of each neck was VERY different. We used that position to get a more classic "West Coast" sound. That sound was definitely "thinner."
The problem will be(I believe, but I'm no tech) that each guitar will "see" and be influenced by the other guitar's electronics, the pickup, the pots, tone caps. This most likely will change the output signal impedance, resulting in "tone suck."
But,,, having said all that, I'm not 100% sure that will happen, and I'm not sure if it would actually matter to you. I don't know what kind of music you play. And there are ways to compensate, such as your amp settings. But a simple splitter, or Y cord, does mean that both "necks" will be on at the same time. You'll have to use your volume controls to turn them on and off. There's a definite reason that players use stompboxes to directly bypass effects, tuners and the other instruments they have onstage. And that reason is that the switch boxes, like the Morley, completely isolate one electronic device from others.
Again, I worked for a steel manufacturing company. I did most of the assembly, including the wiring. But I'm no tech. We used a three position ,0n-on-0n switch for the neck selectors on double-necked guitars. This is the same situation as yours. One switch position gave one neck, the opposite switch position gave the other neck. The position in the middle gave both necks on. So,,,, With the E9th neck on, it sounded "normal. With the switch positioned to turn on the C6th neck, that neck sounded "normal. But,,, with the switch in the middle,"both necks on" position, the tone of each neck was VERY different. We used that position to get a more classic "West Coast" sound. That sound was definitely "thinner."
The problem will be(I believe, but I'm no tech) that each guitar will "see" and be influenced by the other guitar's electronics, the pickup, the pots, tone caps. This most likely will change the output signal impedance, resulting in "tone suck."
But,,, having said all that, I'm not 100% sure that will happen, and I'm not sure if it would actually matter to you. I don't know what kind of music you play. And there are ways to compensate, such as your amp settings. But a simple splitter, or Y cord, does mean that both "necks" will be on at the same time. You'll have to use your volume controls to turn them on and off. There's a definite reason that players use stompboxes to directly bypass effects, tuners and the other instruments they have onstage. And that reason is that the switch boxes, like the Morley, completely isolate one electronic device from others.
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John Billings
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You mentioned that you're building a stand for your guitars, with places for different things. If it were me, I think I'd put two input jacks close to the output jacks of your guitars, and use short patch cords to plug your guitars into your stand. Run wires from those jacks to the switch, and from the output of the switch to another output jack for your cord to the amp. Really pretty simple and slick. Nothing extra underfoot. Don't have to crane your neck around to make sure you're stompin' the right switch. Nothin' extra to carry around. No fiddlin' with the volume settings every time you switch from one to the other. Etc., etc..
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John Billings
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Some interesting reading;
http://howard.davis2.home.att.net/LoadingandCables.htm
http://howard.davis2.home.att.net/LoadingandCables.htm
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D Schubert
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I use a Snapjack cord every Saturday night, with an extra "jack" for every instrument I'm going to play through my amp. Easy to use and understand, dead silent when connected and disconnected, no tone loss, etc.
http://www.zzyzxsnapjack.com/std-snapjack.html
http://www.zzyzxsnapjack.com/std-snapjack.html
