Spraying Isopropyl Alcohol on strings

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A. B. Traynor
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Spraying Isopropyl Alcohol on strings

Post by A. B. Traynor »

Has anyone been doing this, and can they attest to its safety to the laminate finish/ metal/ fretboard over the LONG TERM? I would guesss that the fretboard is glued to the neck, could the alcohol evetually peel it off?

It's just that after a long practice session, the strings get really gunky, I was thinking that spraying alcohol would help keep the strings cleaner, longer.
Thank You,
Adam
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Richard Sinkler
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Post by Richard Sinkler »

I've never heard of anyone using alcohol to clean strings, but I would spray it on a rag and wipe your strings rather than spray it directly on the guitar. Why take the chance?
Carter D10 8p/7k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup, Regal RD40 Dobro (D tuning), Recording King Professional Dobro (G tuning), NV400, NV112, Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open G slide and regular G tuning guitar) .

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Tony Glassman
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Post by Tony Glassman »

I use alcohol to clean strings often. If you want to spray it instead of wiping it on, just lay a rag or towel under the strings to protect the fretboard underneath.
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Post by A. B. Traynor »

Thanks fror the responses. Doy you fing that by spraying after practice, that you actually do get mor life from the strings, or do the strings deaded out on their own because of the constant changing of tension?
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Post by Ray Montee (RIP) »

We regularly sprayed that alcohol stuff on the wings and props of our airplanes to prevent ice from sticking to them and adversely affecting our aerodynamic flight characteristics.

If one's strings get gunky, the hands should be washed thoroughly before playing.
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Jim Sliff
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Post by Jim Sliff »

Strings go dead from metal fatigue. If they are getting dirty - yes, they'll sound bad, but they shouldn't get dirty to begin with. I rarely wipe my strings down as I wash my hands - but the sweat in my hands will corrode metal whether I wipe them or not. It attacks stainless more than nickel - so I use nickel strings - but I've found all the packaged "string rejuvenators", alcohol, etc. to be snake oil....
No chops, but great tone
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Richard Sinkler
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Post by Richard Sinkler »

My hands used to sweat real bad. Nothing would prevent the strings from going bad. The best thing to do is wipe your strings and hands often (i wipe my hands and bar on my jeans after just about every song to dry them off. I don't have as much sweating as I did when I was younger.

The best rule of thumb is, If the strings are getting real bad, change them. If you play regularly, like I do, change them often.
Carter D10 8p/7k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup, Regal RD40 Dobro (D tuning), Recording King Professional Dobro (G tuning), NV400, NV112, Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open G slide and regular G tuning guitar) .

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Post by Dennis Wallis »

I wipe the strings often when playing with a soft lint free DRY cloth . Isopropyl alcohol contains a lot of water . I would assume that it would not be too good for the strings . If you want to make the strings slick spray some finger ease on a rag and wipe them , That will work temporarily . The spray on auto polish is also good and won't harm the finish or the trim . Never spray anything directly onto the guitar . Always apply to a rag and then wipe it down . :)
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Post by Jim Bates »

A trick I used when growing up in western Oklaoma and having to play inthe hot dancehalls in the summer, was to buy a chuck of alum at the local drugstore and wash my hands before we started the gig, and during the break. Also, I would use the 'old' Blitz cloth during the dance as needed to keep strings clean.

Now, in the hot, very humid Houston area, I can get by with washing my hands before the gig with either Lava soap or Boraxo powdered soap nsither of which have any (or very little) lotion. The lotion really gunks up my strings. Also, keep a towel handy to dry hands as needed.

I also still use the Blitz cloth, but the new ones have very little 'stuff' in them compared to the old versions in the 50's.

Thanx,
Jim
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bill dearmore
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Post by bill dearmore »

Ditto what Jim said.." Blitz Cloth". The very best way!
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Post by Kevin Hatton »

Blitz cloth WILL remove surface corrosion. It does work.
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Post by Bill Ford »

I keep one of the yellow polish cloths that are available at most auto supply/parts stores to dry my hands, and wipe the strings. Also when finished,I wrap the cloth over and around the strings and cover my guitar with my "Sharp"cover. I also have a paint stirrer(the stick they used to give you when you bought a gallon of paint)with a couple of wraps of soft cloth to clean the underside of the strings, and fretboard.

BF
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Jim Sliff
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Post by Jim Sliff »

My take is if you need to clean the underside of strings - especially on steel - it's PAST time to change them!
Isopropyl alcohol contains a lot of water
I completely neglected to mention that. Another reason it should not be near a guitar.
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
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Post by Larry Bressington »

I have used 'Pledge' for 25 years on all instruments.
The string life will really benefit if you clean them every time you get done.
I run 'Elixer' on guitar, they are a great string.
A.K.A Chappy.
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Jim Sliff
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Post by Jim Sliff »

I have used 'Pledge' for 25 years on all instruments.
Dissenting opinion.

Pledge (and similar products) cause build-up and leave a film on the instrument. You do NOT want it on a 6-string or bass fretboard under any circumstances, and you have to keep it well clear of all electronics.

Not a guitar tech's choice.

No argument on Elixers and other coated strings, although some do not like the tone or feel. It's a personal thing. I like the tone of the originals but they last no longer than bronze nickle strings for me on acoustic (I've used nickle instead of the usual phosphor bronze for 15 years or so - a few years ago D'Aquisto came out with their new Tony Rice Set - in nickel!). Nickel strings last as long and are FAR cheaper!
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
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Post by Larry Bressington »

Sorry jim, it's never hurt any of my stuff.
I played one guitar on the road for 15 years and never replaced a switch or a pot.
I respectfully disagree that pledge caused harm.
I have never used anything else other than, a few trials on fender polish etc.
I swear by it, plus it helps keep the neck nice and slick, maple or rosewood.
You may be 'technically' correct though, i'm sure a carbon pot does not want it on it's track.
I clean my strings every set at 'break' and wipe clean.
It's just a hunk o wood not a PCB . :D
A.K.A Chappy.
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Richard Sinkler
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Post by Richard Sinkler »

I also used to use Pledge in my early years. I read about it in a magazine or something. But, it was mentioned that you spray it on a rag and wipe only the PLAIN strings by looping the rag around the string. Using any type of wax substance on the wound strings causes the substance to get in between the windings and cause the strings to go dead faster.
Carter D10 8p/7k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup, Regal RD40 Dobro (D tuning), Recording King Professional Dobro (G tuning), NV400, NV112, Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open G slide and regular G tuning guitar) .

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Post by Stuart Legg »

BO uses vodka. Seriously it doesn't leave a sticky residue like alcohol. He gets a shot and a napkin and cleans the strings. Of course you shouldn't waste things nowadays so he drinks what's left in the shot glass.
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Jim Sliff
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Post by Jim Sliff »

Using any type of wax substance on the wound strings causes the substance to get in between the windings and cause the strings to go dead faster
.

Yep. And it'll destroy pots as well.

There are hundreds of stories of players who have used "wrong" products for decades and been lucky.

But "lucky" isn't "right".
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
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Allen Kentfield
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cleaning strings

Post by Allen Kentfield »

I've used rubbing alcohol for years on my strings. It's a lot less expensive than Finger-Eze or similar preparations. I just put it on a rag and wipe the whole string until it stops squeaking. The high pitched squeak will get make the sound man jump, but oh well. I haven't broken strings in years.

Al Kentfield
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Post by Larry Bressington »

Jim Sliff wrote:
Using any type of wax substance on the wound strings causes the substance to get in between the windings and cause the strings to go dead faster
.

Yep. And it'll destroy pots as well.

There are hundreds of stories of players who have used "wrong" products for decades and been lucky.

But "lucky" isn't "right".
Mullen guitar cleaning recommendations are to
' Use pledge furniture polish' it's also on their website :(
A.K.A Chappy.
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Tony Prior
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Post by Tony Prior »

I think spraying anything on your Instrument is a "bad" idea

but

You can buy these and wipe the strings, I have been doing this for a few years now. They do remove some grit and dirt .


Image
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Alan Brookes
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Post by Alan Brookes »

Spraying isopropyl alcohol on strings ? I guess it beats spilling Jack Daniels on the strings. :D
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Tony Davis
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Post by Tony Davis »

Couple of years ago I made the mistake of stripping my 1974 Emmons...blowing all the crap out with air...but used a houshold product called Nifty !!!....it faded the colours on the symbols on the fretboard....and left a few white blobs where it should be black !

Next time in Nashville I will have to get my friend Bobbe Seymour to get me a new fretboard

Tony
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Richard Sinkler
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Post by Richard Sinkler »

Larry wrote:
Mullen guitar cleaning recommendations are to
' Use pledge furniture polish' it's also on their website
From Mullen Website:
Cleaning your guitar
Keeping your guitar clean is a simple matter. Wiping it down with pledge furniture polish is a good solution. If you have something that you cannot remove with polish you can use lacquer thinner on Mica finishes but be careful not to over use it. DO NOT use lacquer thinner on a lacquered or painted finishes. Aluminum parts can be polished with Mothers aluminum polish available at most automotive parts stores.
They are talking about the GUITAR, NOT the strings. Alcohol (or just about any solvent) will work fine to clean the strings, but keep it off your guitar. Alcohol is a pretty weak solvent compared to others and may not affect mica, but I don't want it anywhere near my lacquer guitar. I'm just not willing to take the chance.
Carter D10 8p/7k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup, Regal RD40 Dobro (D tuning), Recording King Professional Dobro (G tuning), NV400, NV112, Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open G slide and regular G tuning guitar) .

Playing for 55 years and still counting.