How do you Shine Brushed Aluminum parts on Steels

JR Ross · Post by **JR Ross** » 3 Jun 2009 9:13 am

How do you shine the brushed Metal parts that seem to hold on to the oxidation. This is primarily on the front of the pedal rack as well as the aluminum neck behind and in front of the pickup? I have no problem shining the smooth metal parts on the end plates and neck trim . Just the brushed parts?
I use semi chrome polish from the Harly shop.

Thanks,
JR________.

Bill Ford · Post by **Bill Ford** » 3 Jun 2009 9:21 am

This is the first time I've seen this one. I would try a mild dishwashing liquid, a few drops in a small amount of warm water, with a soft brush (maybe a worn toothbrush)using semi chrome, or a like product would destroy the textured finish.

Bill

James Morehead · Post by **James Morehead** » 3 Jun 2009 9:54 am

I withdraw my comments, because I believe others to have more applicable experience, more directly relating to your question. Let us know how it works out for you.

Jerry Overstreet · Post by **Jerry Overstreet** » 3 Jun 2009 10:33 am

I would never use any polish or cleaner like Semi-chrome or alum wheel cleaner on a jeweled or textured surface. Once this stuff gets in there, you can't get it off. I'd follow Bill's suggestion re: mild detergent....soft brush.

I tried several things on one of my Mullen that has textured necks and pedal boards just to clean them. Glass Plus works pretty good. Automotive pre clean solution or acetone works well too, but you don't want to get it on the lacquered, finished or glued surfaces.

As far as polishing, it's my opinion it's better left alone. Any polishing you do on textured surfaces just make things worse. At least in my experience.

JR Ross · Post by **JR Ross** » 3 Jun 2009 12:29 pm

Jerry,
I tried the warm water and dish soap, and tooth brush as recommended above. It seemed to bring the shine back a little bit. Mike Mantley at Mullen
said to use lacquer thinner , so I guess you were on the right track with the acitone. He said dont get it on the fret board or logos when applying though. Next Im gona try the window cleaner you suggested.

Lee Baucum · Post by **Lee Baucum** » 3 Jun 2009 12:32 pm

I spray a little bit of window cleaner on a cloth and clean the pedal board and neck on my Mullen.

Whip Lashaway · Post by **Whip Lashaway** » 3 Jun 2009 12:59 pm

Any metal surface on a PSG's that I have are shined with Mother's. Great stuff. Learned about it right here.

Jim Palenscar · Post by **Jim Palenscar** » 3 Jun 2009 5:19 pm

Be very careful with the window cleaner on polished aluminum parts are it will oxidize/discolor it if left on for any length of time.

Lee Baucum · Post by **Lee Baucum** » 3 Jun 2009 6:01 pm

Good point, Jim. Like the old advertisement used to say, "A little dab will do ya."

JR Ross · Post by **JR Ross** » 5 Jun 2009 8:34 am

Well I tried all of the above and the overall winner is the Mothers Pastwax. Although the Laquer thinner did a good job the pastewax seems better cause it will not harm other surfaces (paint and logos) and it also puts a protective coat over the metal surfaces. I would use the thinner to remove a lot of oxidation if present and finish with the pastewax. Im not sure though if the mothers is any better than anyother brand out there . They all seem to have the same properties. I also used a toothbrush and a wire tooth brush ( dont use the wire toothbrush on smooth surface only brushed). The final step is to use a lot of clean rags preferably white bathtowels to wipe off the oxidation. The black oxidation will be all over the rags and they are no good after used once.

For some reason the Semichrome cleaner from the Harley shops works great on smooth surfaces such as the end plates of the steel but it dulls the brushed surfaces so the paste wax is the way to go on brushed surfaces as well as the smooth. I will probably discontinue the semichrome even on the smooth surfaces when I use it up and go to the pastwax. Pastewax is a lot cheaper.

I am really picky with all this cause I just got my new G-2 about 8 weeks ago and noticed a big differance in the shine on the brushed aluminum when I used Semichrome. Perhaps the only way to keep the factory shine on these parts is with a buffer wheel?

Jerry Overstreet · Post by **Jerry Overstreet** » 5 Jun 2009 9:06 am

Interesting. Thanks for the update.

Hook Moore · Post by **Hook Moore** » 5 Jun 2009 10:11 am

I wouldn't use a wax on the jeweled areas of the alumumin at all. For all of the OTHER alumumin areas, get "purple polish". By far the best I have ever used..
http://www.californiacustom.com/purple_ ... olish.html

Mike Cass · Post by **Mike Cass** » 6 Jun 2009 9:17 am

If you polish the patterning on the top of your necks, its gone. That was originally done by a process of first buffing the area to a luster, then applying an orbital sander equipped with a piece of Norton heavy grade emery cloth. Moving the sander in an up/down motion on the surface repeatedly will produce the original matte finish. Any other deviation or change to the process will result in a less-than acceptable finish, if its factory youre looking for.........good luck!
MC

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