I just finished a complete rebuild on my friend's Sho-Bud Pro III Custom. It once was my guitar about 20 years ago. He asked me to rebuild it last year and I agreed. The cabinet was refinished by AJ Nelson, who did a perfect job! John Coop supplied the 5th knee lever parts. I had all the steel under carriage parts zinc chromate plated.
Rite pretty, In the process of doing a little work on my pro2. Sent the ole girl down Dr. Cass to make her more dwarf friendly and I let him talk me into buffing up the aluminum while he did up the other hardware. Hope mine comes out that nice.
Lynn I love the way you placed the knee levers on the left where they belong, most guitars are to far to the right, this one should be easy to play, looks better than great,
My friend also has an Emmons D-10 PP and he asked me to replicate the same left knee levers position on his Sho-Bud. Do do it, a longer shaft had to be welded in the LKR bracket so I could move it closer to the rear apron. Doing that allowed me to move the LKL bracket in a more accessible spot as well.
I like the LKR placement. I'm having problems with my Cooped 'Bud. The LKR is too far forward. If you're willing, I'd like to get your help in moving it inward as it's the only thing I don't like about the guitar.
I know it doesn't look like there's enough room to do it in the picture below, but I think the lever can be moved back on its cross-shaft to fit in between the LKV and the LKL-C6th........What'dya think?
I'll probably be up in PDX either the first or second week in May.......I'll call ya' beforehand.
Thanks again everyone. I really appreciate your kind remarks about my friend's Sho-Bud. I'm planning to play it on a two night gig at the Gresham, Oregon Eagles this weekend!
Tony, let's see what we can do the move that lever to a better position. Maybe you can bring your guitar with you next time you're up this way. Call me and we'll try and arrange a time to get together.
(The only thing that worries me about relocating the lever is that the positive stop would be remote to the actual lever itself. So, I'm wondering without a stop actually at the lever bracket, will the lever be subject to excess torque?)