So,.......I have the body, which are two separate necks out of the frame......thanks to Basil I have a tuner pan for one neck.
I will receive a Trilogy from Rick Alexander...
Rick Aiello will do the pup magic with two on each neck.....
Lamar Colvin will make a keyless tuner for me....8 or 9 strings to be determined.....
Now I'm in the process of removing the changers.....which I need some help with......
it doesn't seem to want to come out.....I have seen some screws which I believe are holding it in....the screws are beneath those tiny rods on the left.....do I remove the screws holding those rods in order to get to the screws underneath?.....
John Billings wrote:HR, you need to ping Jim Sliff. He can prolly do it with his eyes closed!
Or at least cross-post this the Pedal Steel section. Or maybe we need a new section, "Pedal Steels without Pedals at the Moment". The Fender PSG site has unfortunately been hit by spammers, hopefully it will get rebuilt somewhere else.
What Baz said - and feel free to email me - we'll get you dialed in.
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
The best machine heads for the job, unfortunately will have to have white plastic buttons. The ones with nickel buttons have the hole too near the end.
You need these and just cut then off individually then they'll be held in place by the pressure of the edge of the recess. Note that the machine head capstan has a STRAIGHT shank and a hole near the middle, quite necessary for mounting in this type of tuner pan.
There MAYBE another source of machine heads, but you should be looking for ones to suit a "Slotted Headstock" acoustic guitar, they're the only ones with the holes in the right place.
You'll need two complete sets of each Left and right, unless you can find individual ones. If you go the two sets rout you'll be left with four nice tuners to put on some deserving Ukulele or Tenor Guitar..
BTW when you take off the springs, there will be a bright light starting to shine and ALL will be revealed..
As a Fender 400 owner, I've been following this thread with interest. As for tuning machines, Grover makes Sta-Tites for slotted headstocks. I haven't tried these, only the ones for a solid headstock.
No cutting apart here, but you would probably need to grind one end shorter. Chrome buttons and 18:1. Also available from Stew-Mac as suggested by basilh above.
HTH.
"For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." -- Arthur C. Clarke
Michael, I'd considered those Grovers, BUT, the dimensional depth of the wormgear/posts and plate added up to .5" and the clearance isn't that, in fact the top lip of the tuner pan is just .5" so some internal routing would need to be done:-
Whereas .438" give the necessary 1/16th" clearance..
I see what you mean, basil. On closer inspection -- without taking anything apart -- on mine, it looks like there's about a 3/8" space between the tray and the body which means a tight fit for any tuner. Well, good luck to HowardR.
"For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." -- Arthur C. Clarke
basilh wrote:Michael, I'd considered those Grovers, BUT, the dimensional depth of the wormgear/posts and plate added up to .5" and the clearance isn't that, in fact the top lip of the tuner pan is just .5" so some internal routing would need to be done:-
Whereas .438" give the necessary 1/16th" clearance..
So if I rout out the required depth on each side of the pan cavity (and grind the end of each tuner down to fit).....I can use these tuners?........
I'll be back in my office on Friday and will remove the changers.........
N.B. The tuners are spaced 1" apart on the pan.
The tuners will be held in place by side pressure and the shaft aligning with the slots in the tuner pan
Just a little routing where the worm gear support bearings are.:-
HowardR wrote:...I will receive a Trilogy from Rick Alexander...
Are you talking about a Hipshot Trilogy ? If so, you realise that that can't be used with pedals unless you mount it at the machine head end, which would create all sorts of problems.
From:
N.Y.C.,N.Y.
Post Posted Wed Oct 22, 2008 12:51 pm Reply with quote
I've had this Fender 1000 carcass for awhile now, and finally got around to posting this......
I'd like to get it into playing shape.....but not to restore it to original or close to original specs.....this guitar has been written off the Fender active duty list......so perhaps a metamorphosis of sorts.......
As there are many builders here and knowledgeable people here,.....I thought that perhaps this could be a group project. I would need opinions and suggestions from you all.
I don't have the time or the fine skills to this myself, so I'm thinking of sending it off to various people who would do, what they do best.
For example, one person/company to strip & refinish.....one or two people for pick ups, somebody for keyheads and any other work that needs to be done. I would document this as it progresses...
HowardR wrote:...I'm not going to restore it as a pedal steel......but rather a hot rodded hybrid.....
So what are you going to do with the mechanisms, the pedalboards and all those leftover parts ? They look in pretty good condition from the photos.
Alan Brookes wrote:
HowardR wrote:...I will receive a Trilogy from Rick Alexander...
Are you talking about a Hipshot Trilogy ? If so, you realise that that can't be used with pedals unless you mount it at the machine head end, which would create all sorts of problems.
I guess I should have realised the two topics are one of the same.
Ryan Rukavina made me a really nice fretboard out of maple for my Fender 400 reclamation. I needed a custom for the 27" scale. You might want to shoot him an email and see what he could do.
Last edited by Steve Hamill on 28 Nov 2008 5:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Chris, I will need fretboards.....not sure if I want to have new ones made or use existing ones.....are you able to post a photo of what you have?
Alan.......I will probably keep my remaing cables as I have a 1000.....but I will not need the pedals or board, or the other parts, including the changers.....if somebody is retoring a 1000 or needs parts for repair,.....thay can contact me......
HowardR wrote:...Alan.......I will probably keep my remaing cables as I have a 1000.....but I will not need the pedals or board, or the other parts, including the changers.....if somebody is retoring a 1000 or needs parts for repair,.....thay can contact me......
Alan, you can have the pedalboard, pedals, & rods....I don't know what other mechanisms you need, but take a look at my photos and you can see....
Here's the deal.....send me your address and I'll ship the stuff to you in the Fender case.....you in turn make a donation to the forum as you see fit, whatever you feel comfortable with.....and we'll call it a deal......
Interesting to learn how this mechanism works.....I'm wondering if this is kinda like the "rack & barrel" system.....
Actually the forerunner of the now standard "Scissors" type changer, but just single change up and single change down. Albeit a half step or whatever the string permits..
The brass rods with loops and the screws/springs can be likened to the nylon tuners on modern mechanisms.. just the travel limiters.
Where the Fender falls down somewhat is the lack of a POSITIVE stop for the pedal travel. (I do have a workaround for that shortcoming)
The Emmons system with solid pedal stops and shock absorber springs on the collars is a pretty good one and hard to beat..although the Total flexibility of the PS-210 with its capability of VERY quick configuration changes is also a benchmark..
I received the Trilogy bridge from Rick Alexander today......
I just realized that it could be backwards in the photos...as I haven't looked at the instructions yet.....
I'm not decided if I want to place it with the Fender pan or the keyless when it's made.....that depends on spacing......Lamar will make the keyless head in Feb,
Next, I gotta give my buddy Rick Aiello a holler, and see what we can get going with pick ups.....
I also will pack some parts & ship them to Alan Brookes.....
I really enjoy that this is going through many hands here in Forumsville......
