How to buy a pedal steel UPDATE

Instruments, mechanical issues, copedents, techniques, etc.

Moderator: Dave Mudgett

Ken Lamison
Posts: 23
Joined: 30 Jan 2007 9:44 am
Location: Pennsylvania, USA
State/Province: Pennsylvania
Country: United States

How to buy a pedal steel UPDATE

Post by Ken Lamison »

Well, I bought the beast today. An MSA Classic with 8 pedals and 3 knee levers. Black mica finish. Came with a case and cover. The top and underside look great, but the pedal racks and especially the legs were quite corroded. All the linkages worked smoothly and nothing looked altered or broken underneath. Looks like a winter project to get everything cleaned up and back together. What works best to polish aluminum? Now for some "new guy" questions:
1) How fast should I be able to pull all these parts out of the case and assemble them prior to a gig? It took me about 1/2 an hour to tear it down and pack it.
2) Can steel owners/players deduct chiropractor fees as a business expense?

Ken
Last edited by Ken Lamison on 22 Dec 2007 1:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
Stu Schulman
Posts: 6523
Joined: 15 Oct 1998 12:01 am
Location: Ulster Park New Yawk (deceased)
State/Province: -
Country: United States

Post by Stu Schulman »

Ken,Is there anyone who lives near you who can check it for you?
Stu
Steeltronics Z-pickup,Desert Rose S-10 4+5,Desert Rose Keyless S-10 3+5... Mullen G2 S-10 3+5,Telonics 206 pickups,Telonics volume pedal.,Blanton SD -10,Emmons GS_10...Zirctone bar,Bill Groner Bar...any amp that isn't broken.Steel Seat.Com seats...Licking paint chips off of Chinese Toys since 1952.
Bobbe Seymour
Posts: 7418
Joined: 12 Jan 2001 1:01 am
Location: Hendersonville TN USA, R.I.P.
State/Province: -
Country: United States

Post by Bobbe Seymour »

Pick it up and shake it? Whew, you are new aren't you! This is the way I chose my last wife, it didn't work out either,


Funny post, I love it!
User avatar
Lee Baucum
Posts: 10859
Joined: 11 Apr 1999 12:01 am
Location: McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier
State/Province: Texas
Country: United States

Post by Lee Baucum »

Whatever you do, don't let Bobbe test drive it for you. No matter what he is playing at the time, it sounds good.
User avatar
chris ivey
Posts: 12703
Joined: 8 Nov 1998 1:01 am
Location: california (deceased)
State/Province: -
Country: United States

Post by chris ivey »

the msa should be fine....shaking it isn't a bad idea!
Charles Davidson
Posts: 7549
Joined: 9 Jul 2005 12:01 am
Location: Phenix City Alabama, USA
State/Province: Alabama
Country: United States

Post by Charles Davidson »

My main guitar is a thirty five year old MSA,D-10 classic,she's heavy,but still solid as a rock.
Hard headed, opinionated old geezer. BAMA CHARLIE. GOD BLESS AMERICA. ANIMAL RIGHTS ACTIVIST. SUPPORT LIVE MUSIC !
User avatar
Larry Strawn
Posts: 2985
Joined: 17 Feb 2005 1:01 am
Location: Golden Valley, Arizona, R.I.P.
State/Province: -
Country: United States

Post by Larry Strawn »

Pick up an MSA D/10 and shake it??

I don't think I'm that much of a "Hoss" any more!! :lol: :D

Larry
Carter SD/10, 4&5 Hilton Pedal, Peavey Sessions 400, Peavey Renown 400, Home Grown Eff/Rack
"ROCKIN COUNTRY"
Tamara James
Posts: 2241
Joined: 14 Aug 2007 1:06 pm
State/Province: -
Country: United States

Post by Tamara James »

Reminds me of that old song,

Shake me, I rattle
Squeeze me, I cry
Please take me home and love me

Recorded by: Patti Page, The Lennon Sisters, Cristy Lane, etc....



Loved, that one. :D
Last edited by Tamara James on 18 Dec 2007 9:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
Carl Heatley
Posts: 618
Joined: 12 Dec 2007 5:01 pm
Location: Morehead City,NC
State/Province: -
Country: United States

Post by Carl Heatley »

Hey...35 year old is O.K....Dont you be fooled by some young pritty thing with a nice pedal RACK!
User avatar
Jim Sliff
Posts: 7060
Joined: 22 Jun 2005 12:01 am
Location: Lawndale California, USA
State/Province: California
Country: United States

Post by Jim Sliff »

I'm checking out a MSA Classic Double 10 tomorrow and would like some advice on what to look for before taking it home.
Picking it up and shaking it is not an option unless you are taking a forklift. Mine weighed 90+ pounds in the lightweight, thin-shell plastic case. I can't fairly judge one because mine had some mechanical problems caused by added parts, but that didn't change the dry, dull tone I thought it had. However, it DID have tone and volume controls on the guitar, something I think should be mandatory.

I guess they're kind of like a '64 Plymouth Valiant - not very exciting but last forever.

Seriously, though - if weight is a concern do not even bother. It's one of the heaviest guitars in existence.
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
Ron Page
Posts: 5725
Joined: 4 Aug 1998 11:00 pm
Location: Penn Yan, NY USA
State/Province: -
Country: United States

Post by Ron Page »

You want to make sure pedals, levers and keys operate smoothly and that there is not excessive “slop in the gears”, so to speak. Sure, some parts will wear, but are they working properly. Do they raises and lowers return properly—you can listen for that. The changer fingers might show some wear from strings, but shouldn’t be heavily grooved. You don’t want excessive hum or extraneous noise from the pickups. Extraneous doesn’t include what your hands create.

I’d second what Stu said.
Having a player put it through the paces will determine how well it stays in tune. Something all the static tests I mentioned won’t tell you.

IMO, you’ll want a somewhat standard/common copedant and you don’t want to see any home made retrofits beneath it.
HagFan
Emmons Lashley LeGrande II
User avatar
Ken Byng
Posts: 4329
Joined: 19 Feb 2001 1:01 am
Location: Southampton, England
State/Province: -
Country: United States

Post by Ken Byng »

Bobbe
I take it she didn't rattle first time round?? :D
User avatar
David Doggett
Posts: 8088
Joined: 20 Aug 2002 12:01 am
Location: Bawl'mer, MD (formerly of MS, Nawluns, Gnashville, Knocksville, Lost Angeles, Bahsten. and Philly)
State/Province: -
Country: United States

Post by David Doggett »

Many of the best pedal steels have loose parts by design. If you can manage to shake the thing, what you hear may be irrelvant, that's not how the instrument is played.

The way an experienced steeler test drives a used steel is different than the way a novice can. Unless you have someone to help you who is experienced both with playing and mechanics, you need to be very cautious. Knowing what I do now, as a novice the three things I would look for are:

1. The price should be quite low, so if you discover problems as you learn to play it, you can either sell it without a loss, or pay possibly big bucks to transport it somewhere and have it fixed.

2. It should have a very standard copedent (the tuning of the strings, and the changes on the pedals and levers). Do a little research on the Forum and at the Carter Steel Guitars site. You want to spend your time playing, not spending hours figuring out by trial and error how to convert somebody else's quirky setup to something standard that can be used with standard instruction material. And you don't want to start out learning on some wierdo setup.

3. The pedals and levers should work smoothly and easily and return to correct open pitch. There should be no serious grooves in the tops of the changer fingers, no messed up tuning keys, and no obvious mechanical defects. Good pickups are nice, but those are fairly easy to upgrade if you need to. Suit yourself with tone, weight, cosmetic dings, color, etc. These might not be so important on a first used pedal steel. Once you spend some time on it and learn to play, you will have better ideas on exactly what you need on your next one (if you are one of the 20% who stick with it). You might think a little differently about that if it is to be your single lifetime investment.

It's a great adventure. Good luck.
:)
User avatar
Micky Byrne
Posts: 2294
Joined: 15 Dec 2005 1:01 am
Location: United Kingdom (deceased)
State/Province: -
Country: United States

Post by Micky Byrne »

Many of the best pedal steels have loose parts by design.

Totally agree with David on that. Also as he says, only an experienced player will know what to look for. Ken welcome to the world of pedal steel :)

Micky Byrne
User avatar
chris ivey
Posts: 12703
Joined: 8 Nov 1998 1:01 am
Location: california (deceased)
State/Province: -
Country: United States

Post by chris ivey »

yes on looseness of parts...however, nothing should fall off when shaken!
User avatar
Jon Light (deceased)
Posts: 14336
Joined: 4 Aug 1998 11:00 pm
Location: Saugerties, NY
State/Province: -
Country: United States

Post by Jon Light (deceased) »

Anything that falls off you probably didn't need anyway. Good to shake things down to the essentials.

But seriously--good info above. The best thing you can do, if it is an option, is bring along a player. An experienced steeler can tell the difference between a beater and a viable fixer upper. Or, on a less negative note, a nice steel.
Ernie Pollock
Posts: 2181
Joined: 4 Aug 1998 11:00 pm
Location: Mt Savage, Md USA
State/Province: -
Country: United States

Humm?

Post by Ernie Pollock »

Money has always worked for me, & I have spent a ton of $$$ on steel guitars, just pick one & go for it!!

Ernie
http://www.hereintown.net/~shobud75/stock.htm
User avatar
Bill Ford
Posts: 3862
Joined: 13 Dec 1999 1:01 am
Location: Graniteville SC Aiken
State/Province: -
Country: United States

Post by Bill Ford »

Ken,
I have a 25 year old MSA S12 "The Universal"it is original except for setup for ext E9, I have absolutely no complaints on the way it sounds, or plays.(dull dry tone??)not mine.

Best advise so far, take someone with you that has some savvy of how a PSG should sound/play/look. Otherwise, look at the underside, it will look confusing at first, look for something that looks out of place, rods that don't match, parts that don't match, out of place/alignment etc., overall condition of the instrument, does it look abused??
Image
Bill Ford S12 CLR, S12 Lamar keyless, Misc amps&toys Sharp Covers
Steeling for Jesus now!!!
Ken Lamison
Posts: 23
Joined: 30 Jan 2007 9:44 am
Location: Pennsylvania, USA
State/Province: Pennsylvania
Country: United States

UPDATE

Post by Ken Lamison »

TTT
User avatar
Bo Borland
Posts: 4023
Joined: 20 Dec 1999 1:01 am
Location: South Jersey -
State/Province: -
Country: United States

Post by Bo Borland »

where in Pa are you?
Bo Borland
Rittenberry SD10 , Derby D-10, Rittenberry Prestige, 76 Emmons Bolt . Quilter TT12, Peavey Session 400 w/ JBL, NV112, Fender Blues Jr. , 1974 Dobro 60N squareneck, Rickenbacher NS lapsteel, 1973 Telecaster Thinline, 1979 blonde/black Frankenstrat
Currently picking with
Mason Dixon Band masondixonband.net
Bob Carlucci
Posts: 7381
Joined: 26 Dec 2003 1:01 am
Location: Candor, New York, USA
State/Province: New York
Country: United States

Post by Bob Carlucci »

Ken there are a bunch of us in PA, and close by in NJ, NY, W Virginia, Delaware and Ohio that can look at it for you, depending on WHERE in Pa. you are located...I am only 1/2 hr from Pa myself...

You can shake an MSA till you drop dead and not hurt it...I would be happy to check it out for you if you are anywhere near the northern Pa border... The MSA is a great choice.. They are virtually bulletproof... bob
Don Brown, Sr.
Posts: 1419
Joined: 11 May 2004 12:01 am
Location: New Jersey
State/Province: New Jersey
Country: United States

Post by Don Brown, Sr. »

Ken, you asked how long it should take setting it up and taking it down, you'll be able to do it in less than 5 minutes after you do it a few times. It's like playing, after a while it becomes second nature.

Lots of folks are willing to help, if it's needed.

The old MSA's that I've heard always had a damn nice sound. Everyone's told ya right. And take this for what it's worth. If you like it, that's all that matters....

My Best to you

Don