Dobro ???

Lyle Bradford · From: Gilbert WV USA (deceased)

Does anyone have any tips on putting a Quarterman cone in an original Dobro?

Kenny Davis · From: Great State of Oklahoma

If your Dobro still has the original cone, it's probably glued to the soundwell. You will ruin the cone taking it out, so be sure that's what you want to do. The Quarterman QC-1 & QC-2 cones are both 10 9/16 in diameter compared to 10 1/2 on the original. You will have to enlarge the opening on the body slightly by using a router, or perhaps removing material by sanding with 100 grit sand paper. It's better to remove wood than trim the cone. Make sure you have a good, even fit on the soundwell, and don't glue the new cone. Also, make sure your spider legs fit on the new cone flat.

If you live close to a good reso luthier, I'd recommend letting them do it if you don't feel comfortable with the procedure.

Lyle Bradford · From: Gilbert WV USA (deceased)

Thanks Kenny! I have no problem doing it. I just wondered if anyone had any tips and how deep it has to be for the QC to let the cover plate clear the bridge inserts. All I know to do is go a little at a time and make sure the bridge inserts and the nut are level with each other. I have already fixed the inserts and bone nut to exact as the original that was in the dobro.The QC is to high so i will have to router the depth out too.

Larry Clark · From: Herndon, VA.

You might want to check out this download from Stewart-MacDonald www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/i-4006/index.html
Also you might want to contact Resophonic Outfitters,(it's on the Forum Links page)and see if they have any input.

mikey · From: New Jersey

get a dremel and a router bit so you can enlarge the hole...a bit..
Aloha,
Mike

Michael T. Hermsmeyer · From: Branson, Missouri, USA

Before you start cutting up your dobro, contact Paul Beard!! He has 10 1/2" Quarterman cones, according to the literature I picked up in St. Louis.
Michael T.

------------------
UTILITY MAN PRODUCTIONS
'73 EMMONS D10 FATBACK, '92 EMMONS D10 LASHLEY LEGRANDE,
'85 DOBRO 60DS, '95 DOBRO F60S,
'95 MELOBAR CUSTOM, 1955 FENDER TRIPLE NECK STRINGMASTER. EVANS, FENDER, PEAVEY,
and MESA BOOGIE Amps.

Michael T. Hermsmeyer · From: Branson, Missouri, USA

I'm looking for the info, I will let you know what I find.

Ally · From: Edinburgh, UK

PLEASE!

Do not put a quarterman in a vintage dobro. If it's an OMI, that's fine. But don't put one in a vintage. The old cones sound great, and pretty different, to the Q mans ... it's a matter of taste. But just think: would you put texas special pick-ips on a vintage strat? or swap out an old P-90 on a gibson? The cone does the same thing as these pick-ups: if you're not keen on the old-time sound, there ARE people out there who are.

The collectors' market is frowning on non-orig hardware these days. Please, if you want a contemporary sound, there are any number of good customs available for not too much. I know the luthier Gregg McKenna agrees with me on this.

Howard Parker · From: Maryland

Michael T. Hermsmeyer · From: Branson, Missouri, USA

OK, Here is the link for the Quarterman cones at Beard Guitars. http://www.beardguitars.com/explode/resophonic/beardshop/webshop.cgi?config=config.txt&uid=rJnPjgA11040095402&command=link--cones
They don't have any 10 1/2" listed here. The papers I got in St. Louis shows these, plus two 10 1/2" cones.
The first is the IRC-145 which is a "factory seconds for import models, which may contain small dings and dents". $6.00.
And the one you may be interested in, the DC-119, "10 1/2" for Dobro--Made of the same alloy of aluminum as the original dobro cones of the '30's". $50.00.
Contact Chet at Resophonic Outfitters if you have questions about these. Hope this helps.
One comment I have, is that if you are looking for a Jerry Douglas type tone out of an old Dobro by replacing the cone with a Quarterman, you are not going to find it. My '85 60D (not really vintage I know) came with a cheap stamped aluminum cone which I replaced with a spun cone from Elderly Instruments. It has a great tone. I thought I would do one better and replace it with a Quarterman. I ended up just about destroying both in the process. The Quarterman cone sits up much higher even if you do something to deal with the 10 9/16" diameter. Most of the guitars built today with a Quarterman cone also have coverplates that are higher and allow for the extra bridge height. Find a Tut Taylor in your area and you will see what I am talking about. Basically I am saying that a stock cone will not fit. When I did get it in there, it didn't sound any different than the old spun Dobro cone. So the next day, I took it all apart again and put the spun cone back, and we have been very happy ever since.
Do what you want to do, it is your guitar, but my opinion is that you will not be happy with the end result. And if you modify your guitar, you may not be able to go back to the old cone, and you will de-value everything in the process.
Happy Holidays and God bless,
Michael T.

------------------
UTILITY MAN PRODUCTIONS
'73 EMMONS D10 FATBACK, '92 EMMONS D10 LASHLEY LEGRANDE,
'85 DOBRO 60DS, '95 DOBRO F60S,
'95 MELOBAR CUSTOM, 1955 FENDER TRIPLE NECK STRINGMASTER. EVANS, FENDER, PEAVEY,
and MESA BOOGIE Amps.

Lyle Bradford · From: Gilbert WV USA (deceased)

Thanks guys for the info. This Dobro is an 82 model. It has a cone that measures 10 3/8 inches. Is this what is called a 10 1/2 or is it one some one has put in this. I bought it used and just thought a QC may help it some. I replaced the nut and bridge inserts that may be enough. I also ordered the PB video on setup.

mikey · From: New Jersey

I'm with Howard on this one...keep the original cone in a safe place....put in the q-man...and a guitar IS JUST A TOOL....
Mike

Michael T. Hermsmeyer · From: Branson, Missouri, USA

Your '82 Dobro should be very similar to my '85. If your cone is spun, you should be able to see the "turnings" quite easily, such as on a cymbal or a brake rotor. If your cone doesn't have these markings, it is not spun and probably stamped (like a pie plate). Take that piece of crap out of there and bake a pie in it, then throw it away, LOL. No, just kidding, I always keep original parts, no matter how bad they are. You can always put it back if you decide to sell it.
If your original cone is stamped, any of the good spun cones on the market will improve the sound of your guitar. The Quarterman is obviously the most expensive and you still may encounter installation problems. Remember that diameter is not the only measurement. You are doing the right thing by contacting Beard Guitars. Paul won't steer you wrong. I think your best bet will be to find a spun cone that fits without modification and Paul can tell you if such a thing is available.
Oh Yeah, you also did the right thing by changing the nut and saddle. Did you go with bone or corian for the nut? And what type of saddle did you install? Maple, maple with ebony cap or the new Emerson Powerbridge, made from solid rock hard cherry? I am getting ready to install the bone nut and Emerson powerbridge on my 85 D60. My '95 F60 already sounds awesome.
Please let me know how everything turns out.
Good Luck and God Bless.
Michael T.

[This message was edited by Michael T. Hermsmeyer on 17 December 2002 at 01:26 AM.]

Lyle Bradford · From: Gilbert WV USA (deceased)

The cone that i have out is a spun cone. I used a bone nut and a maple with ebony tipped bridge inserts. I think i will just put it back together and see what these 2 items does for it and not make any modifications to the body. I bought the Emmerson power bridge for a banjo and did not like it at all. I went with a Snuffy Smith on it.

Michael T. Hermsmeyer · From: Branson, Missouri, USA

Lyle, it sounds like you are going to have a heck of a Dobro there, tool or not.
Keep on pickin', God Bless.
Michael T.

David Doggett · Posted 19 Dec 2002 12:55 pm

I put a Quarterman cone in my recent model Regal. This is very tricky. It is not just a matter of routering out the diameter of the hole, but you have to keep the ledge the cone sits on perfectly flat as you increase the diameter. The cone needs to sit on this ledge without binding to the sides, but also in perfect contact with the ledge, so that with the pressure of the strings there is an essentially airtight seal, like a speaker in a cabinet (but without glue). For this reason you need to check the edge of the cone carefully and flatten any crimps that might come from the factory. Trimming the cone would seem to cause problems with crimping, but I have heard of people doing this.

There are a few other refinements one can make to get closer to the modern deep Jerry Douglas sound. It will help the bass response if you block up some of the sound holes on the neck side of the resonator well, and square out some of the holes on the opposite side to enlarge them. This is a little like making the body act as a bass reflex speaker cabinet with the screen holes (or f holes) acting as tuned (but not really) ports.

After all that (and a bone nut and ebony capped bridge), my Korean Regal sounded a lot better, but still not nearly as good as any of the top American brands, or even some of the Eastern European brands.

As others have mentioned, I would hesitate to do any of that to a vintage Dobro. But then you would have a collectors item to hang on the wall. If you want something to actually play, and to compete in volume with banjos, fiddles and mandolins, then you need to get a modern resonator guitar designed to play LOUD and deep with modern techniques.

If you want to run with the big dawgs, yuh gotta git up off the porch.

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