65 Twin Reissue speakers

Tim Whitlock · From: Colorado, USA

A while back Guitar Center had a "no interest for 12 months" credit offer, so I decided I would take the plunge and buy a new 65 Fender Twin Reissue amp to try to get close to the great old Fender sound from the 60's. I figured I'd pay it off in a year with gig money, and the wife approved, so off I went. Of course I didn't expect it to sound exactly like a vintage amp, but after gigging with it for over a year, my disappointment with the sound of it has been growing like a boil on my soul. It just didn't have the clarity or sparkle that I've come to expect from Fender amps, and the lows were mushy. I tried every setting combination possible and just could not get a sound I was happy with. I even tried altering my picking technique to try to get more "bite". I was also considering one of the mods that have been posted on the SGF.

Finally the other day, while cleaning out the basement, I ran across an old PA cabinet that had a metal cone 15" speaker, and though maybe I'd give it a try with the Twin. I dragged it upstairs, disconnected the stock 12" Jensons (made by Recoton), and plugged it in. Immediately my face lit up like a kid at Christmas. Every aspect of the tone was dramatically improved. The highs were sweeter and clearer, the lows finally had definition and punch.

I'm a little peaved with Fender that I now have to pony up more cash to get my $1000 amp to sound great, but I suppose they voiced the stock Jensons for the guitar players (although my Tele sounds better as well). Have any Reissue buyers noticed the poor quality of the stock speakers? And have you replaced them and with what? Thanks for your feedback!

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Tim Whitlock
'58 Fender 1000, '56 Fender Stringmaster, '65 Twin Reissue

Ken Fox · From: Nashville GA USA

I have one, sounds great after I set the bias. It was running about 18ma per tube, cold and mushy. it now sounds as good as any vintage Fender amp I have in my collection.
Most of these amps are set cold at the factory and after a year of playing it needs a power tube bias adjustment.
I totally agree that a 15" speaker sounds way better in these amps than the stocks 12". Those are nice guitar speakers but not a great steel or jazz guitar speaker. 2-12" JBLS or Peavey Black Widow 1203-8 (I prefer these over the JBL) would make a significant difference the amps sound as well.
You can have Mojotone (or other companys) build a nice 15" baffle with aged cloth and you would have a nice looking amp while preserving the old baffle/speakers for a possible future sale.

Brad Sarno · From: St. Louis, MO USA

Tim, I've got a pair of original Fender 12" speakers with the blue sticker on them. They came out of my '69 Twin and they're still on the original baffle. These are the high power Twin speakers. I converted my Twin to a single 15" and I'm willing to part with these original 12"s if you're interested. Give me an email if you may want them. The price is right.

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Brad Sarno
Blue Jade Audio Mastering
St. Louis

Grant Johnson · From: Nashville TN

I never owned a more cold and lifeless sounding tube amp than the Fender 65 Twin Re-Issue. The highs were ice-picky even with the treble rolled off, the lows were not tight... I wondered if I got a dog as I have heard other Twin RI's that sounded better.
I re-biased, changed Tubes etc. I should have tried the speakers. I bought mine used and luckily broke even on the amp when I got rid of it.
The only guitar that sounded good through the amp was a Rickenbacker 330-12.

Brad Sarno · From: St. Louis, MO USA

In my opinion, there's nothing like the sound of the original point-to-point wired Fenders. They have a warmth to them but at the same time a very detailed presence without being harsh and trebly. The circuit board models (Reissues) come close but lack that magic dimension to my ears. I think a refurbished '65-'71 Twin is as tough and reliable and perfect sounding an amp you can get. They dont build them like they used to. Luckily there are tons of them around and they're easy to find and service.

My big recommendation on the Twin is to put two heavy-duty fold-down handles on each side so you can lift it with two hands and a good posture. AND WHEELS OF COURSE!!! I threw my back out one too many times with a Twin. No more! (fingers crossed)

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Brad Sarno
Blue Jade Audio Mastering
St. Louis

Tim Whitlock · From: Colorado, USA

Ken - Is bias adjustment something that can be done by someone with only a little electrical background? I mean I can solder and have replaced bad pots in my volume pedal, but nothing major. I can pull the chassis out of the Twin. Where would I find the bias adjustment and how and to what value would I reset it to get a better tone?

I'm leaning towards building a new baffle and mounting my 15" to it, but I will have a look at Mojotone as well. Probably wouldn't have the $ for their work, nice as it sounds.
Thanks for the tips! - Tim

emil noothout · From: Amsterdam, Netherlands

Ken Fox, at what value did you bias your twin to make it sound good? Do you know how blackface Twins originally (in the sixties) where biased?

Tim Whitlock · From: Colorado, USA

Brad - Thanks for the offer of your original Twin speakers. Turns out the speaker in my old PA cabinet is a 15" Lansing D130F in good shape. I really makes the Twin sound 100% better. We've got a show tonight and then off for a few weeks. I'm heading down to Home Depot tomorrow for some plywood. Thanks to all! Tim

Jay Ganz · From: Out Behind The Barn

With my old original '65 Twin Reverb, the
bias can be adjusted without removing the
chassis. The new reissues have a printed
circuit board & are layed out a bit different.
If you do increase the bias to about 30ma
per output tube it does "fill out" the
tone, but it will also overdrive a little
easier when you "push" the amp.

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My MP3.com page

Ken Fox · From: Nashville GA USA

I bias in the the 32 to 35 ma range for Twins, Supers, and other Blackface and Silverface era amps. The Brown amps of the late 50's and early sixties have lower plate voltages so I calculate them before changing the bias resistor, same for Tweed era amps.
I use a Bias King with two receptacles to bias with. Their formula is a but whacky for bias range(very wide high to low range). I use the following:

(Pp/2)=Ip*Vp)

Pp = max plate tot plate dissipation wattage
Ip= bias current
Vp= plate voltage

Note that plate voltage will decrease as bias is increased (due to the unregulated power supply), take a reading on the plate voltage after raising the bias and then recalculate. I use this formula for amps that do not have a bias adjust and as a quick reference for other amps as well.

I actually have an Excel spreadsheet for these calcs I have prepared. It shows the Bias King formula and the above. All I do is enter the plate voltage, max plate dissipation of the tube in use and it does the math for me.
Another thing that helps these amps is good power tubes and preamp tubes. JJ/Telsa is my choice for good tone and reliablity. Chinese preamp tubes are horrible, no bottom and lots of nasty highs. The Svetlana tubes are also the choise for 6L6GC tubes for many. The Sovtek 12AX7LP is another favorite preamp tube.

[This message was edited by Ken Fox on 13 September 2003 at 11:29 AM.]

[This message was edited by Ken Fox on 13 September 2003 at 11:30 AM.]

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