New Rack System (Yeehaw!) and Cabling Questions

Steve Feldman · From: Central MA USA

Hi Folks:
First, a brief description of what I've been spending my money on for the last couple of months.
1) 2 Genz Benz cabs w/ 15" Emminence Eclipses,
2) TubeWorks 9002 preamp w/ steel mod,
3) MosValve 1500 amp (hey, I like the TubeWorks stuff, what can I say?),
4) Lexicon MPX-1 Reverb/Delay, etc.,
5) L710 pickup (made up close to those
L710-8s).

Unbelievable sound! The preamp is the CLEANEST thing I've ever heard, and I've been A/Bing it with others a lot lately. Throw the Lexicon in and this setup is LUSH; and I can dial it in to cut through anything. For what I like, the whole package is really wonderful.

Anyway, I'd like to learn how to rig this thing up in my rack so that I don't have to take the back off to plug in all those cords. I plan to eventually get a Furman power strip/conditioner so that there's only one power cord to deal with coming out the back. But rigging speaker jacks to the back of the rack and then to the amp inside is a mystery to me.

Steve Schmidt recently described installing '1/4" jacks accessible from the outside that go to dual banana jacks that plug into the [amp].' Banana plugs are not 1/4" plugs, so by doing this you're stepping down from 1/4" speaker cable jacks to banana plugs, then back up to 1/4" plugs to go into the amp, right? I don't get it. What's use banana plugs - why wouldn't you want to go straight 1/4" all the way?

What about the cable in between the banana plugs and the amp? If you DO use banana plugs, does the wire going out of it to the amp have to be the same gauge as the speaker cable?

Are the 1/4" jacks just standard, 2-conductor 1/4" phone jacks? Are special solder-type plugs needed? And can speaker cable just be twisted up (where have I heard that expression before...?) and soldered to the jacks?

One more question: The effects do not reach to the back of the rack case, so in effect, they kind of float in the back. Any good tips for shoring them up in the case, or is the front rail mount sufficient to hold everything in place?

You all get the idea of the types of questions I have. I would greatly appreciate any comments or suggestions of any type that you all might have regarding rack setup, etc.

Thanks vey much,
Steve

Joe E · From: Houston Texas

First thing I would do is mount the equipment in the rack in the order you want. Power amp is usually on the bottom. I also suggest a rack mount power conditioner. Many guys cut down the ac plugs of each of there units to just reach the supply. I prefer not to do this, but gently cable tie them together. Run these down one side of the rack and the signal cables down the other. What ever jacks are on the speaker output of your amp is what you need. Wire up a cable with them on one side and a panel mount jack on the other. You may actually need to wire one side, then drill the holw in the rack and slip the wire through and then finish the wiring. MOst likely you will have the conditioner on top, followed by the pre-amp, FX then the poweramp. Just the way the signal flows. The FX unit will be sandwiched between other units and shouldn't need any other support. I'm not sure of how much heat the power amp throws out, but you may still need to remove the back cover of the rack for air. Alot of guys wire the speaker jacks on the side of the rack near the back for just this reason. So they can take the back off without wires attached. I would use at least the same gauge speaker cable as you're using from the head to the cabinet. Two conductor, heavy duty zip cord will work.

You can e-mail me if you need more help.

Joe

Len Amaral · From: Rehoboth,MA 02769

Hello Steve:
If your going to use a power conditioner in your rack you should consider the type with the outlets positioned verticle rather than horizontal. With the horizontal outlets, a wall wart power supply can take up several outlet spaces. Also, I have a blank space between my power amp and the effect unit to allow air flow. I installed a one rack space perforated screen to cover the blank space.

Jack Stoner · From: Kansas City, MO

I notice Herby uses two racks. One for the MV1500 and another for the rest of the equipment. That isolates the power amp and allows for more room for cooling.

However, I have a Transtube Fex and a MV500 power amp (same size and rating as the 1500). I have them mounted in a 4 space Grundorf rack. I have speaker jacks, that are connected to the MV500 speaker binding posts mounted on the back. I also have a computer type AC power plug on the back, for the power cord. I have a surge type AC power strip mounted on the inside bottom of the rack that the two units plug into.

Cooling is a major concern. I talked to the MosValve (Genz Benz) tech support when I got the used MV500 Power amp and he told me it was important to provide sufficient cooling. What I did was cut 8" Circles on both sides of the Grundorf rack and mouted 8" round speaker grilles on each side. The MV 500 is mounted on one side of the rack, as it sucks air in from the bottom. There is a space and then the Transtube Fex is mounted one rack hole from the other side of the rack - again for air circulation. With that configuration, I'm able to sit the unit up vertical beside me, with the bottom cover on. The MV500 runs cooler than the Transtube Fex.

Tony Rankin · From: Land O’ Lakes, FL

I have a Furman power strip, a Tubefex, a blank aluminum ventilated panel, and a Stewart amp in my rack. I added two recessed dishes to the rack, one of which is a vent panel. The other has 1/4" jacks from the amp (for the speakers) and it also has XLR connectors (from the direct outputs of the Tubefex.)

I wired the power cord from the Furman to a receptacle that I bought from BassPro Shops, which is actually made to wire on-board battery chargers on bassboats. It works really well and enables me to plug the female end of any extension cord onto the receptacle. I found a good black heavy-duty 10 foot extension cord at Loewes. It works well and looks good too!

I have also added recessed wheels to the bottom of the rack case. It would be better if I had a retractable handle that I could add to the exterior of the case. But, that's another subject.

Steve Feldman · From: Central MA USA

Thanks for all y'alls responses. A lot of good advice. I know I rambled a lot in throwing out my questions, so I'd like to try a couple of specifics one more time - this time clearly, I hope:

1) Someone please tell me what kind of speaker jack plugs to get to mount in my rack case. Banana plugs? 1/4" plugs, and if so, what kind - phone jacks, speaker jacks...Switchcraft website lists 4 different kinds of the same 1/4" jack plug, all of which mean nothing to me. 2-conductor, 3-conductor? Use a jack block? If so, what kind?

2) I'm currently using 16 ga speaker cable. If I install jack plugs in the case, must I also use 16 ga cable to go from the rack plugs to the amp? Can I go to 14 ga?

You see my dilemma - basically, I don't know this stuff from Adam and there are too many choices out there. Consider this 'Amps and Gear 101'.

Any additional help would be greatly appreciated.
SF

[This message was edited by Steve Feldman on 20 February 2000 at 10:23 AM.]

Tim Harr · From: Dunlap, Illinois

All are very good replies...

As for the cable for the internal connections, I recommend only one type:

George L cables and plugs.

These are top of the line and will give you, in my opinion a very clean and 'present' sound.

In addition, an added bonus is the fact that you can cut the cables to the exact length that you need. Of course, other cables can be cut as well ....the George L cables are able to be done in a little quicker and cleaner manner.

Hope that this tip helps. Best of luck.

Tim
Indianapolis, IN

Joe E · From: Houston Texas

Use 1/4" 2 conductor jacks in the rack. You will need to cut the wire to length and mount whatever type of connector is on your amp to the other end of this wire. I would use 1/4" jacks on the rack so in later dates you can use other speaker cabs, all with a common connector. 14 gauge is ok from the amp to the jacks. Its better to keep the same gauge through out but 14 gauge is ok from amp to rack. Maybe later change your speaker cab wire too. Use good sheilded wire to connect the componets together. That is, the Pre-amp to fx to power amp.

E-mail me if you want to discuss further.

Joe

[This message was edited by Joe E on 21 February 2000 at 06:25 AM.]

Kevin Mincke · From: Farmington, MN (Twin Cities-South Metro) USA

Hi Steve, You have the same system I bought minus the power strip!
Might as well stick with the TubeWorks power conditioner & light module. Herby got em!
Kevin

Rick Barber · From: Morgan Hill, Calif. USA

Ask Jim Baron my guit teacher.

I know he modified his rack case so its all convenient.

Rick Barber

Olli Haavisto · From: Jarvenpaa,Finland

Hi Steve,

I have my rack set up w. the equipment facing upwards.I put casters and ventillation ports on the back lid and a amp-type handle on the front lid.I have my outputs mounted on these recessed ashtray-type things on what would be the the top of the rack if was positioned like it "should".All I have to do is remove the front lid and attach the cables the situation calls for and I`m ready to play.I don`t even remember when I had to take off the back lid.The connections I have on the outside of the rack are AC,spkrs,line outs,midipedal in and an auxiliary jack which is currently connected to the sound out of a Korg tuner so I can check the calibration of other tuners in the band.These mods will work on an old fashioned wooden flight rack.
The casters are great for transportation,of course, but they also allow for proper ventilltion and it`s real easy to move the rack around even after the cables are connected.

------------------
Olli Haavisto
Polar steeler
Finland

Steve Feldman · From: Central MA USA

Thanks for the help, guys.

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