1959 Fender Model 400 Pedal Steel

Evan Brack · From: Ohio, USA

Hello Steel Guitar Forum,

This is my first post and first time getting into the pedal steel world. I have always admired the instruments sound and also been a fan of pre-CBS gear. I saw this Fender 400 on FB marketplace,and ended up getting it shipped from the seller since it was far away in eastern PA and im in Ohio.

When I received the guitar I noticed someone before me had converted it to a lefty. I also noticed that it had a pretty substantial knee lever mod added. This thing is really beefy and I was wondering how on earth someone would have had the material and skill to add it.

As I was switching back to original Righty configuration, I came across a piece of scotch tape under the metal chassis with "7-14-59 Bill Carson" written in red ink. No way to verify if this is the same Bill Carson who helped Leo with the strat design and worked at Fender all his adult life, but cool nonetheless.

I was hoping to be pointed in the right direction about cleaning the cables, pulleys, making sure the pedals are adjusted right, and what string gauges you use / for which tunings.

Dave Mudgett · From: Central Pennsylvania and Gallatin, Tennessee

Fixed the image tags.

Nicholas Cox · From: CA

Original tuning was A6. You can read about it here https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=310599
Strings for all sorts of tunings can be found on this forums online store (top left corner).

Good luck!

Evan Brack · From: Ohio, USA

Thank you! To be more specific, what type of string gauges are a go to for 8 strings? Do you just save a remaining 2 I'm guessing highest strings for backups since modern day packs come with 10? I've read that certain tunings are prone to breakage without the later Roller Bridge.

Thanks

Evan

Michael Sawyer · From: North Carolina, USA

Without a roller bridge,i had tune my oldest 400 down to D9.I always used standard E9 strings.
Jim Palenscar ,Steel Guitars of North County, made me a roller bridge and nut'- no more breaks...
The Fender Pedal steel group on Facebook has alot of info as well.Have fun!

Donny Hinson · From: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.

They're a hoot, for sure! As far as cleaning the cables, just wiping them with an oily rag every 10 or 20 years is all that's required. Adjusting the pedals is equally as simple; forget the thumbscrew on the top of the pedal (it's not needed). Just remember not to have too much or too little tension on the cables. Too much tightening will activate the pulls, and too little tension will not allow proper changes. (Ideally, you want the cables to have almost no slack.) As far as string gauges, that'll depend on the tuning you select. For sure, an E9th is out of the questiion, so most players back in the day used D9th, instead. I use a D-major tuning with the chromatics on mine, but you can set the thing up however you want, as it just takes a few minutes to change the pedals. If the changer fingers aren't stuck, just add a drop or two of oil on the top of each one every few years, and forget it. Hopefully, you didn't pay too much for that guitar, as it's been stripped down quite a bit. But, even with just 3 pedals, there's a lot of music in there. Also, a tiny drop of oil on the bridge (where the strings go across it) will help prevent string breakage.

Have fun!

K Maul · From: Hadley, NY/Hobe Sound, FL

I am not a fan of oil on these guitars. They usually need a really good cleaning because the old oil is broken down and collected dust and hair and gotten really gummy. I take the changer out and soak it in naptha and then put it back together and lubricate it with a dry Teflon spray like Blaster. Like used on a bicycle - not the waxy kind though. Spray it on the changer and all moving parts particularly all the pulleys. Make certain that on the big pulley the cables are properly aligned and are not running over each other. They do tend to bind each other and then when you activate one pedal another string will move up or down slightly and cause it to go out of tune. That’s one of the more common problems. That’s my recommendation. I think in the long run you’ll have better luck not using oil. Other people have different opinions I know.
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KEVIN MAUL: Airline, Beard, Clinesmith, Donner, Evans, Excel, Fender, Fluger, Gibson, Hilton, Ibanez, Justice, K+K, Live Strings, MOYO, National, Oahu, Peterson, Quilter, Rickenbacher, Sho~Bud, Supro, TC, Ultimate, VHT, Williams, X-otic, Yamaha, ZKing.

Evan Brack · From: Ohio, USA

Evan Brack · From: Ohio, USA

Richard Alderson · From: Illinois, USA

Dear Evan - Here is a previous thread in regard to which tuning you might want to set up:

https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=397640&highlight=
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Derby SD-10 5x6; GFI S-10 5x5; GFI S-10 5x5; Zum D-10 8x7; Zum D-10 9x9; Fender 400; Fender Rumble 200; Nashville 400; Telonics TCA-500.

Evan Brack · From: Ohio, USA

Evan Brack · From: Ohio, USA

I have been playing around in C6. I haven't been using the pedals too much since some fingers feel stuck. Anyone have experience taking apart the bridge and cleaning them out? I am kind of slow when it comes to learning new stuff and the hooking up of different cables for certain fingers isn't clicking for me, but I imagine once I clean it and everything is responding the way it should be it'll clear confusion up for me.

I will hit 1 pedal but only one of the 2 fingers will respond. Or some will feel like they aren't fully extending back VS others. What's the best cleaning solution? Naptha?

Donny Hinson · From: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.

Evan, the cable Fenders operate exactly opposite of most all other pedal steels. The tighter the tuning screws are turned, the less the changer fingers will move. And if the screws are tightened all the way, the fingers won't move at all! The owners' manual is available online, and you should make a copy and keep it handy.

To see if the fingers are free is a fairly simple procedure. First, loosen the tuning screws about 10 turns, then slack off all the strings enough so they don't make a note. (It's not necessary to remove them.) Finally, unhook all the return springs on the changer, and that will allow you to move the fingers back and forth with your fingers. If they move freely back and forth, and they will slide past each other with little effort, you don't have to do anything! Reverse all the above procedures and retune the strings and pedals on the guitar, and you're set to go.

In closing, I would add that I have found that a guitar that is oiled regularly will never "freeze up". This happens only if you don't lubricate it for a very long period (many years, or even decades). Keep in mind the first rule of pedal steels is "Don't fix it if it ain't broke". Disassembling and cleaning may help your ego, but it does nothing for a guitar that is operating properly. And if you happen to accidentally "spring" the finger assemblies while removing or cleaning them, they may not operate properly (read: "move freely") when you reassemble the guitar, as the tolerances in the changer plate slots are very close!

Good luck, and happy pickin". Very Happy

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