What bullet steel has indent at base to facilitate slants?

Joseph Lazo · From: Wisconsin, USA

I'm using a Dunlop 920 and a Shubb SP-2. I prefer the Dunlop, but would like to find a similar bar with an indent at the base to make slants easier to control. I've looked online, but can't find one. Often, the photos don't show the base and there's nothing in the description to indicate if there's such an indent.

Can anyone steer me in the direction of bar similar in shape, size and weight to the Dunlop 920, but with an indent at the base?

Jack Hanson · From: San Luis Valley, USA

Check out the Latch Lake (formerly Broz-o-phonic) bar.

https://latchlakemusic.com/slides/hawaiian-bar/

Paul Seager · From: Augsburg, Germany

For 6 & 8 string lap steel I use a Dunlop 918, shorter and lighter than a 920 and indented like a 920. For my 6 string resonator, I prefer the 918 when playing swing music and faux-Hawaiin but use a Shubb SP2 for bluegrass.

I "play around" with Pedal Steel and the 920 is my choice for it's length and weight. I find the 920 has too much of both for the other styles I mention.

Dunlop and Shubb are the only bars that are easily available in my part of the world but I don't like awake at night over that 😁
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Tim Whitlock · From: Colorado, USA

Doesn't the Dunlop have an indent?

Joseph Lazo · From: Wisconsin, USA

Joseph Lazo · From: Wisconsin, USA

Tom Campbell · From: Houston, Texas, USA

I have some Bullet bars for sale that have a deep indentation:

https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=398070&highlight=

Andy Volk · From: Boston, MA

Not being glib here. Proper slant technique is the key to better slants. A pronounced indent in the rear of the bar is pretty close to irrelevant - at least IMHO. My go-to bar these days is a Clinesmith where there's just a bit if lip round the flat base of the bar.
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Joseph Lazo · From: Wisconsin, USA

Lloyd Graves · From: New York, USA

I have both a latch lake and a Dunlop 918.

As a new player, I had a lot of trouble with the latch lake so I bought the 918, which is a bit lighter (I think) and a bit shorter, which made it easier to control.

Now that I'm trained up in the 918, I find the latch lake easier to control. But I still prefer the Dunlop 918.

Good luck! Bars are even worse than picks when trying to find the right one because of the cost!

Joe A. Roberts · From: Seoul, South Korea

Even for 8 strings I have come to really like the Dunlop 919, with specs as recommended by the slant master, Jerry Byrd, himself (in his method). The 919 is slightly shorter than the 918.

918: 5.5 oz. 3/4″ diameter x 2-15/16″ long
919: 4.5 oz. 3/4" diameter x 2-3/4" long

I agree with Andy that the indent is for the most part inconsequential, backward slants will always be awkward and require practice.
I think the best help, bar-wise, is lightness and ease of manipulation, without sounding too thin. I imagine that is what Jerry Byrd found.

I can't slant like Byrd could but I would rather have a 919 that is round on both ends for backward slants than a 920 with the most comfortable indent custom tailored to my thumb Laughing

For reference:
920: 7.5 oz. 7/8" diameter x 3-1/4" long

Speaking of round on both sides, a company made a bar called the "twister" like that a decade or so back.
This would allow for upside down split slants using the bullet nose! Interesting possibilities if one could cope...

David Matzenik · From: Cairns, on the Coral Sea

In my experience, it is the reverse slant that needs an indent. And to that end (no pun intended) the indent should aproximate the curve of the end of the thumb.
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Joseph Lazo · From: Wisconsin, USA

So, I did a little experiment. I tried a couple of my bottleneck slides, thinking since they're open on the end I could get a feel for whether an indent would help or not. In the process of doing this, I found that reverse slants with these slides was much easier - but it wasn't so much that there was a place to nestle my thumb, it was because they're shorter and lighter. My Dunlop 920 is 3 1/4" long and 7.5 oz. The lighter brass slides are much shorter and lighter. Much easier to maneuver quickly and retain control over. I also found that I really like the sound of brass on the strings. Whether it's because of the metal or because it's a hollow cylinder, I don't know.

This has me rethinking my use of the Dunlop 920. I'm convinced now it's just too long and too heavy a slide for me, at least my current skill level. I think I need a shorter, lighter bullet slide. Ideally with an indent at the base.

Steven Pearce · From: Port Orchard Washington, USA

Latch Lake and for Stevens type bars, the Shubb SP3 is a great bar.
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Ian Rae · From: Redditch, England

Slants aside, I always assumed that a cavity in the base of the bar was a way of moving the centre of gravity nearer the nose.
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Andrew H. Brown · From: Amarillo, TX

Michael Hillman is a forum member here and makes some great bars that are indented in the base. They are powder coated, and sound and feel great. I like the "Rose Sinclair" bar (3/4). He has many sizes to accommodate, is a gentleman on the phone and will help you find what you need. Also, he has the "Dave Wright" bars that are tapered. Very reasonably priced as well. Highly recommended.

Joseph Lazo · From: Wisconsin, USA

I can't explain this, but I can suddenly do reverse slants without losing control of the bar! And I'm able to do it without my thumb going anywhere near the base of the bar.

I think what I'm doing differently is that when I push the bar back I'm simultaneously rolling it forward slightly and my thumb dips a little downward, sort of rolling down with the bar almost to the point of touching the strings.

It's been interesting to hear everyone's opinion on bars with a cavity in the base, and whether or not they help. I just paid for such a bar from a forum member, and while I don't really think I need it now I'm looking forward to seeing how it handles and if putting a thumb at the end of it works better.

Rick Aiello · From: Berryville, VA USA

Jerry Byrd puts on a "Master Class" on reverse slanting in this video ... "Surprise Waltz"

https://youtu.be/vLNYnBUB0FY?si=JMIj_Pum6REVle-W

In order to do reverse slants fast and accurate ... well, just pay attention to where his thumb is placed ... an indent (even just a LIP) helps tremendously 🧐

Rick Aiello · From: Berryville, VA USA

Jerry Byrd puts on a "Master Class" on reverse slanting in this video ... "Surprise Waltz"

https://youtu.be/vLNYnBUB0FY?si=JMIj_Pum6REVle-W

In order to do reverse slants fast and accurate ... well, just pay attention to where his thumb is placed ... an indent (even just a LIP) helps tremendously 🧐

Bob Shilling · From: Berkeley, CA, USA

Nathan Laudenbach · From: Montana

I have a bar with a rather deep domed indent and it doesn’t help me with reverse slants any better than a Dunlop 920. The lip or edge of the indent is the most important part, not how deep the indent is. I wouldn’t want to dip my thumb into a deep indent because it will be harder to straighten out smoothly. Just my experience.

Joseph Lazo · From: Wisconsin, USA

David Matzenik · From: Cairns, on the Coral Sea

When I go into a reverse slant using the Latch Lake bar with a concaved indent, it approximates the curve of the end of my thumb. The bar pivots under the first knuckle of the first finger, and by the time the bar is in the reversed position, the indent is on the pad of the thumb. Its a smooth transition. I do not have to get my thumb out of the indent.
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Peter Funk · From: Germany

Fred · From: Amesbury, MA

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