6063 architectural alu v. 6061? [Fender Update]

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

Question for metallurgists or otherwise knowledgeable folks in the metals field.

I'm considering the 6063 architectural alloy for some knee lever flags to replace some that are too short. This alloy is the only thing I've found in the multiple dimensions I need.

Just concerned about the strength for knee lever action vs. 6061 which I've read is a stronger alloy.

All relative input welcome. Thx in advance.

Per Berner · From: SkÃ¶vde, Sweden

My engineering studies were a long time ago, but for use as knee lever flags, I very much doubt that a somewhat softer alloy would pose any problem at all.

James Holland · From: Alabama, USA

The stiffness is the same for the two. 6061 t6 is 45 percent stronger than 6063 t6. Just a quick calc, if you are using a 1" x .25" knee lever, about 4" long, and limit the knee force to 10 lb, which is way more than needed, the applied stress will be around 4000 psi. 6063 t6 yields at 24000 psi, so you are better than good.

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

Thanks guys. I think it will work OK.

I believe the 6063 product I ordered has a T52 temper factor.

James Holland · From: Alabama, USA

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

Thanks fellas. I got it. It looks like it's tough enough for knee levers. My plan is to craft knee levers for the old Fender Artist.

It's a little too high for me, so I'm thinking a longer knee lever might let me adjust things to fit rather than cutting down legs and rods etc.

It fits perfectly on the kl hub so just proper drilling for attachment and tilts, sizing, trimming, radiusing and polishing out.

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

Finally! Crafted all 5 new longer knee levers w/Emmons type foldlng flags on the Right knees.

The channel is just the right groove width to fit over the hubs.

I opted to do this instead of cutting down all the legs, rods etc.

I plan on having the levers widths machined down to about half the present size, but trying it like this first.

Installed the LKV kit and left all the 12" length on the replacement lever so I can use it on the C neck too.

Still some finishing and tweaking to do, may need to reexamine some things, but now I can reach them all and finally be able to play the thing.

Just got it done and I'm having a ball with it. I love this old guitar!

*Mods as I go. To make the LKV usable, the tilt angle was too severe to be comfortable so I designed and pinned together a 2 piece drop down offset extension, attached to the existing hub, so that the lever would be more level. The tilt angle still adjusts in the same manner as the original.

Because of the lever height I used a finger knob and a nylon insert wing nut to attach it to the hub so that it can be solidly easily & quickly installed/removed for set up or case up.

*

I ordered some parts from Michael after his website was usable to replace some that I hacked out as I was anxious just to complete the job.

Making parts from stock with a hack saw, die grinder, dremel, drill press etc. is a lot of work and difficult to finish properly and I hate to dispose of them.

They are completely functional, but Michael's parts look so much nicer and more professional, fitting and matching the existing components.

I'll just swap those out when they get here.

I'm really proud of this guitar and I'm anxious to show it off and let people hear it. I believe they will be surprised by how nice it sounds.

It plays so good, incredible sustain, rock solid tuning and no discernible detuning issues. It's not a string beaker either. Very stable guitar.

It's also pretty cool to be playing something unique that holds it's own to any of more than a dozen guitars I've ever owned, except for maybe my 95 Mullen. Me happy.

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