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Topic: Nashville 112 problem |
chuck lemasters
From:
Jacksonburg, WV
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Posted 7 Nov 2022 5:04 am |
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| I recently bought an older Nashville 112. I really like the tone and portability, but a problem has arisen....an intermittent popping noise, that while not real loud, is startling when it occurs. I assumed it was caused by the grounding jacks on the loops, which I cleaned and then inserted patch cords. I thought that had fixed it, only to find it still happening occasionally. Then I noticed that when it happened the light would go out as well, assumed it is losing power completely, and the popping noise is the pop one hears when switching the amp off. Cleaned, then replaced the on-off switch. I have had the chassis out several times checking and re-seating stab connectors. I am thinking perhaps it is a failure in the thermal shutdown switch on the heat sink, but I am well beyond the limit of my knowledge. Spoke with a local repairman who advised it might be hard to diagnose, as it is intermittent. Have any of you amp guys out there seen this before or have any suggestions? Thanks in advance. |
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Ken Fox
From:
Nashville GA USA
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Posted 7 Nov 2022 5:16 am
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| Mid pot typically need cleaning If it makes noise when turned that is the likely culprit |
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chuck lemasters
From:
Jacksonburg, WV
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Posted 7 Nov 2022 5:44 am
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Ken,
I cleaned the pots. They are quiet. The amp seems to be powering off, then immediately powering back on, as the pilot light goes out when the pop occurs. |
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Jack Stoner
From:
Kansas City, MO
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Posted 7 Nov 2022 5:45 am
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I've had problems with loose AC power cord plug on the rear chassis. It will work itself loose if not pushed back in occasionally. That could account for pops and power light going off and on.
I fixed mine with a smaller cable clamp than Peavey used. The Peavy clamp lets the cable hang loose and thus prone to loosening in socket. I replaced the cable clamp with a smaller one that holds the cable so it can't move. Solved the loose power cable plug issue with the smaller (tight) cable clamp.
_________________
GFI Ultra Keyless S-10 with pad (Black of course) TB202 amp, Hilton VP, Steelers Choice sidekick seat, SIT Strings
Cakewalk by Bandlab and Studio One V4.6 pro DAWs, MOTU Ultralite MK5 recording interface unit |
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chuck lemasters
From:
Jacksonburg, WV
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Posted 7 Nov 2022 6:00 am
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Jack
I had bought a longer power cord for the amp, already secured it as you said. The problem occurs with either cord. |
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George Webb
From:
Mississauga, Ont, CAN
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Posted 7 Nov 2022 6:37 am
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Chuck,
I had a similar problem. The amp was cutting in and out intermittently. I could make it happen by wiggling the power switch ... but that wasn't the culprit.
It turned out to be a bad solder joint on one of the front panel pots.
I eventually found it by examining each joint under a magnifying glass.
Good luck,
George Webb |
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chuck lemasters
From:
Jacksonburg, WV
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Posted 7 Nov 2022 2:16 pm
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| Well, I took the chassis out one more time and re-seated all the stab connections, as well as the tiny ribbon connections and power cord. Put it back together and played through the amp several different times today. It seems to be OK. I have no idea what the problem was, have my fingers crossed that it is going to continue to work. Thanks to all who replied. |
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Jack Stoner
From:
Kansas City, MO
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Posted 8 Nov 2022 3:09 am
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Reseating the two Molex connectors in the power supply section was going to be my next suggestion. I had an intermittent problem with a NV112 that I had and reseating those two connectors fixed it.
_________________
GFI Ultra Keyless S-10 with pad (Black of course) TB202 amp, Hilton VP, Steelers Choice sidekick seat, SIT Strings
Cakewalk by Bandlab and Studio One V4.6 pro DAWs, MOTU Ultralite MK5 recording interface unit |
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chuck lemasters
From:
Jacksonburg, WV
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Posted 8 Nov 2022 6:06 am
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Jack,
I am not even sure which connectors those are, but I reseated everything I could see and apparently something worked. Thanks for the help! |
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