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Topic: position of hex nuts |
Ben Feldman
From:
Spokane, WA
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Posted 20 Sep 2021 10:13 am |
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Should pull rods be adjusted so that the hex nuts are in a certain position when in tune?
On my steel, some of my hex nuts are tightened pretty far so that the tip of pull rod is popping out the end of it by a 1/2 cm or so. Other hex nuts are only screwed on about half way. I'm concerned the looser ones might be more likely to slip out of tune...
What's the ideal position for a hex nut? And what's the process for deciding how much slack to have in a pull rod within the bell crank BEFORE tuning with the hex nuts? |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 20 Sep 2021 12:30 pm Re: position of hex nuts
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| Ben Feldman wrote: |
| Should pull rods be adjusted so that the hex nuts are in a certain position when in tune? |
Ideally, yes.
| Quote: |
On my steel, some of my hex nuts are tightened pretty far so that the tip of pull rod is popping out the end of it by a 1/2 cm or so. Other hex nuts are only screwed on about half way. I'm concerned the looser ones might be more likely to slip out of tune... |
Tuning nuts sticking out past the surface of the endplates can cause problems. They're more likely to get bent or damaged, and I've even seen players (or others) tear their pants on protruding pull rods. Unfortunately, some pedal steels were, or are, built that way, and it's difficult to make adjustments (or get shorter hex nuts) so that they don't protrude past the endplate.
| Quote: |
What's the ideal position for a hex nut? And what's the process for deciding how much slack to have in a pull rod within the bell crank BEFORE tuning with the hex nuts? |
Ideally, you should have slack, but not too much slack. Exactly how much is a personal decision. Some like almost no slack (which can make over-tuning more likely). Some, like myself, prefer enough so that there's ample slack to provide adjustment in cases of varying string gauges, and allow the pedals to move slightly (about 1/4" to 3/8") so that merely touching the pedal does not start the string moving. |
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Bobby D. Jones
From:
West Virginia, USA
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Posted 21 Sep 2021 6:41 pm
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To be on the safe side, You do not want any part of the nut or rod extending out past the end plate face. If the tuning nut or rod sticks out, When the guitar is put in and taken out of the case there is a chance of bending or breaking the rod, Or bending and damage to the changer fingers.
Some guitars have an adjustment to move the rods in till they are safe inside the End plate window. 2 I have worked on with adjustable rods is GFI and Old MSA"s.
If the rod is attached to the Bell crank, With E-Clip (Emmons), Dog Bones (Carter) pins or clips. It would take more work to shorten rods. Some threads may have to be added to rod.
Plastic tuning nuts can be cut easily with a utility knife and a hammer. |
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Dave Meis
From:
Olympic Peninsula, Washington, USA
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Posted 22 Sep 2021 9:23 am
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| I don't think there's an 'ideal' setting, but certainly inside the window. There's commonly an aluminum spacer between the nylon nut and the changer finger, and they come in a variety of lengths...you may be able to just switch the spacer for a shorter one, or slightly shorten the ones that you have that are protruding. |
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Bobby D. Jones
From:
West Virginia, USA
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Posted 22 Sep 2021 1:58 pm
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What make guitar is this problem on? Some pictures would also help determine the problem.
There is several different lengths of plastic tuning nuts, Used by guitar manufactures.
Some guitars have sleeves to cover the threads so the rod threads are covered and only smooth rod goes through the changer fingers.
70's MSA have about 1 inch aluminum sleeves between the changer finger and tuning nut. GFI has a about 3/8 inch plastic sleeves between the changer finger and tuning nut. |
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