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Author Topic:  Help me to identify my "Franken-Bud" Mavericky thing!
Paul Leoni

 

From:
Mississippi, USA
Post  Posted 7 Jun 2021 10:07 am    
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Trying to figure this out. Had a "normal" Maverick in the 80s. This on looks highly upgraded from what I can remember.
Thank you all!
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Paul Leoni

 

From:
Mississippi, USA
Post  Posted 7 Jun 2021 10:08 am    
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Paul Leoni

 

From:
Mississippi, USA
Post  Posted 7 Jun 2021 10:10 am    
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LDG-ish?
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Paul Leoni

 

From:
Mississippi, USA
Post  Posted 7 Jun 2021 10:17 am    
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Oh, I forgot. I will also need a drop-in
humbucker for this. I really really really dislike single coil pickups (tone bugs me, not the noise)
Thanks!
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Paul Leoni

 

From:
Mississippi, USA
Post  Posted 7 Jun 2021 10:49 am    
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I don't have a clue how to get a lower happening on one of the knees for a more "standard" copedent. As rigged only raises in pedals. I know it can be done I see those little "springy" things on two of the rods. Yep I am slightly dumbassed about these
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Paul Leoni

 

From:
Mississippi, USA
Post  Posted 7 Jun 2021 4:43 pm    
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Ok...I am assuming I asked the wrong question on the wrong forum. Could someone tell me where ai could ask this? Thanks!
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Lee Baucum


From:
McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier
Post  Posted 7 Jun 2021 4:59 pm    
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Paul Leoni wrote:
Ok...I am assuming I asked the wrong question on the wrong forum. Could someone tell me where ai could ask this? Thanks!


What is the question?
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Paul Leoni

 

From:
Mississippi, USA
Post  Posted 7 Jun 2021 5:13 pm    
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Well, the first one was...
What the heck is this thing?
It seems to be a 1978 Maverick but I haven't ever saw that neck on top of that ugly burled plastic like my 1980s Maverick had...seems odd, but the parts all go together. Can't quite figure out what is from what in case I need parts in the future.
Thanks for asking!!
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Ricky Davis


From:
Bertram, Texas USA
Post  Posted 7 Jun 2021 6:34 pm    
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No Paul this is the right section for this. But this is something nobody has seen or experience with because it is indeed homemade-retro built and not bad if you ask me. Indeed the body looks like maverick student model; with a tail piece and neck off a single-10 shobud Pro~I probably the fingers are cut to single finger-no pivots so a somewhat pull-release system; where you tune the pedal down tone at keyhead; then the open note at nylon behind finger; and yes all rods must have spring tension on them. Well I can go on and on; but I don't have it on my bench to figure out the handful of ways it is set up to tune all and different pulls.: as it is NOT STANDARD in any way. Somebody like me(but I can't because I have 5 shobuds on the bench and inline till end of year; > would have to set it up and teach you the tuning procedure of how it is homemade to play.
Ricky
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Andy DePaule


From:
Saigon, Viet Nam & Springfield, Oregon
Post  Posted 7 Jun 2021 8:03 pm     One way to lower a string...
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Paul Leoni wrote:
I don't have a clue how to get a lower happening on one of the knees for a more "standard" copedent. As rigged only raises in pedals. I know it can be done I see those little "springy" things on two of the rods. Yep I am slightly dumbassed about these


One way to lower a string is to have a spring holding the finger in the raised position.
Then you need to rig the knee lever to push the finger back to the lower.
The other way more common is to have the knee lever release the tension on the spring. The spring will need to have enough tension to return the string to the higher pitch.
I'm guessing you want to lower the 2nd and 9th strings on one knee?
You should also want to lower the 8th string on another knee.
I think the old Mavericks lowered the 8th and the 2nd string on one lever?
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Ian Worley


From:
Sacramento, CA
Post  Posted 7 Jun 2021 9:50 pm     Re: Help me to identify my
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Paul Leoni wrote:
...This on looks highly upgraded from what I can remember...

Let's go with "highly modified".

Your guitar does appear to have a lower -- RKR looks like it is set up to lower string 8 and raise string 1. Hard to tell if there's anything else going on there from the angle of the pic. No pic of the left knee or pedal shafts to see what they do or to clarify what that middle cross shaft does (looks like it's probably attached the the left knee to raise the Es on strings 4&8).

Based on the top-screws and the inlay style on the neck, the tail piece and neck appear to be from a very early Professional era Bud, ~'71-ish. The fingers, knee, bell cranks and other undercarriage parts visible in the pics are all home made.

Any narrow-mount pickup will drop in that hole.
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All lies and jest, still a man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest - Paul Simon
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Paul Leoni

 

From:
Mississippi, USA
Post  Posted 8 Jun 2021 4:51 am    
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Ok. I have it lowering on right knee right and in tune.
I holds tune very well too. Pretty interesting job someone did. I Don't remember my Maverick feeling this rugged or smooth.looks like parts are cut from billet aluminum. I think I may have a diamond in the rough.That "burled" plastic crap needs to take a long walk off a short pier.


Last edited by Paul Leoni on 8 Jun 2021 6:51 am; edited 1 time in total
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Paul Leoni

 

From:
Mississippi, USA
Post  Posted 8 Jun 2021 6:02 am    
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Ok!

I think you all answered most of my questions.

So..I have found I can indeed do the standard Nashville Right knee lowers, I have done so and the unit stays in tune. In fact its remarkably stable.

The top allen screws are stops (final rest for unpulled strings, followed by..what looks like one raise and one lower per string and all pull? I do now think I understand the mechanism and tuning. Rough key tune, pedals down notes, then the allen screws, rinse repeat.

I can beat the hell out of the pedals and stays in. My 80s Maverick was not so rugged. So..this is an old Pro 1 changer running solid aluminum guts I guess. I have ordered a Gumby headstock and Grovers.

I only had $600 in it.
Seems hard to find a 3 pedal 2 knee of an quality for less than 1200 these days so I guess I am happy.
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Paul Leoni

 

From:
Mississippi, USA
Post  Posted 8 Jun 2021 6:04 am    
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Thank all of you!!!
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Ricky Davis


From:
Bertram, Texas USA
Post  Posted 8 Jun 2021 7:37 am    
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No, it is NOT a Old Pro 1 Changer. it is a old pro 1 tail piece and neck. The tail piece is what holds the axle with what ever those 10 single finger pieces are hanging down(never seen them). A old Pro 1 changer is a all-pull scissor assembly with rivets that raise and lower a string, and this is NOT EVEN close to that.
Ricky
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Paul Leoni

 

From:
Mississippi, USA
Post  Posted 8 Jun 2021 8:26 am    
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Ricky Davis wrote:
No, it is NOT a Old Pro 1 Changer. it is a old pro 1 tail piece and neck. The tail piece is what holds the axle with what ever those 10 single finger pieces are hanging down(never seen them). A old Pro 1 changer is a all-pull scissor assembly with rivets that raise and lower a string, and this is NOT EVEN close to that.
Ricky


Ok, so even the fingers are custom?
Weird. Whatever it is it sure works well!
Thanks!
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Paul Leoni

 

From:
Mississippi, USA
Post  Posted 8 Jun 2021 8:40 am    
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More pics





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Paul Leoni

 

From:
Mississippi, USA
Post  Posted 8 Jun 2021 8:42 am    
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Wonder who engineered this? Looks like aviation type belcrank design similar my old Cessna 172.
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Ian Worley


From:
Sacramento, CA
Post  Posted 8 Jun 2021 9:40 am    
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Paul Leoni wrote:
Wonder who engineered this? Looks like aviation type belcrank design similar my old Cessna 172.

If your plane's mechanicals look like this, remind me never to fly with you. Laughing

The bell cranks look like they were modeled after typical later model Bud cranks but crudely, machined with a hack saw and a bench grinder. Some parts look like they may even be cast, but hard to tell from the pics. Even the end plates are homemade, which seems odd. It's all pretty rough but if it works well and makes good music, that's all that really matters.

Paul Leoni wrote:
The top allen screws are stops (final rest for unpulled strings, followed by..what looks like one raise and one lower per string and all pull? I do now think I understand the mechanism and tuning. Rough key tune, pedals down notes, then the allen screws, rinse repeat.

This is not an all-pull changer, it is pull-release. The holes in each finger can be used interchangeably for either a raise or lower, the two rows just provide different leverage points. The top row of screw stops tune the lowest possible note on each string, whether it has a pull or not (the screw is basically irrelevant on strings with no pulls, just tune at the keyhead). The highest possible note is tuned first at the keyhead with the finger pulled tight against the inside edge of the cutout in the body, either by activating a pedal or lever, or with a return spring for strings with a lower only. I don't think that situation applies on your guitar. On strings with both a lower and a raise (like your string 8 ) you tune the open note last with the nylon nut on the rod attached to the lowering lever.

There are dozens of threads on tuning pull-release guitars here on the forum that you can research. Once you understand it you'll see it's there is no "rinse-repeat" needed, it's dead simple.

On the keyhead change you mentioned, keep in mind there is a routed-out area under the ash tray tuner with slots cut all the way through the top that you would have to fill. If it were me I would leave it as-is, the recessed pan should work fine. This is not a guitar you should be investing much $ in IMO.
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Ricky Davis


From:
Bertram, Texas USA
Post  Posted 8 Jun 2021 9:55 am    
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Quote:
Ok, so even the fingers are custom?
Weird. Whatever it is it sure works well!

They might very well be what was in the Maverick student model originally; but now mounted in a pro I tail piece as the maverick tailpiece was removed and replaced.
But mainly I was saying they are NOT A PRO 1 CHANGER.
Ricky
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Paul Leoni

 

From:
Mississippi, USA
Post  Posted 8 Jun 2021 11:08 am    
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Thanks Ricky.
You would be very surprised how very primitive and simple airplanes are, and in must not be modified (upgraded) without a "stc" certificate from the FAA (who are there to "help us" right)

That one is still flying today. (-:

I don't usually spend a lot of money on things I upgrading anything. I have a deal going on the Gumby head.

I am also going to refinish this anyway so filling will be no problem.

I do a single act (50 years now full time!!) In that act I play (*live* zero backup tapes save one loop that I do live on spot Keyboards, Thumb style guitar, Saxophone, Banjo, Harmonica and now I will add some classic country songs via this *super lightweight* pedal steel.

Thus my interest in getting it where I want it.
I also suspect that it will not be hard to sell as there is literally nothing as light with 3 pedals and 2 knees.
This thing is very light and oddly the pedals have a good smooth throw amazingly. Half pedal is pretty easy to hit


Soo... hopefully I am not as dumb as I sound. I have a freinds MSA rig here to compare.
I will post pictures and maybe a vid when I am through relearning all this.
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Paul Leoni

 

From:
Mississippi, USA
Post  Posted 8 Jun 2021 11:31 am    
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All you told me is really helpful because now I know I will have to make my own parts. I would have never guessed someone would make the fingers for the head. What sort of things frequently break? Looks to me like holes could "wallow out" easily.
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Ricky Davis


From:
Bertram, Texas USA
Post  Posted 8 Jun 2021 11:34 am    
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Well Paul; that is admirable of you, certainly to make it be what you want it to be. That is basically the idea behind any changing/upgrading/retro-ing of any pedal steel. I've been restoring mainly Sho~bud's for close to 30 years now and I have seen it ALL and seen every retro/upgrade known to man-kind and I have worked with and taken advice from the industries greatest and I even currently have one in the Country Music Hall Of Fame Museum that I restored"; and they were all done for one reason.
"MAKE IT WORK TO PLAY".
Ricky
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Paul Leoni

 

From:
Mississippi, USA
Post  Posted 8 Jun 2021 12:04 pm    
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Advice from the best! Thanks!
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Paul Leoni

 

From:
Mississippi, USA
Post  Posted 11 Jun 2021 10:05 am    
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One more thing:
Can anyone explain the original purpose of the brass fitting on one of the horizontal connecting rods as pictured? I think it's on one of the knee levers but I reall cant see it's purpose. It has a spring but only seems at this time to be extending the rod.
Thanks!!
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